Got some rhythm back in some mediocre surf yesty.
Then it was proper pumping this morning.
No crowd until the last hour and then still not bad. Surfed 3 hours. Bit of a wait for sets at times.
You win some, lose some out there. My first surf there, big out of season spring swell with big sweep. No one could sit at snapper. I got out in front of the rainbow surf club on the first paddle out. Found myself in some space for a primo set wave. Caught it all the way to just shy of the big groyn...
About 17-18 or so years back we came up for bluesfest and rented a house at the boat channel at Lennox that backed on to the car park there. Sitting on the deck, drinking beers, smoking joints and people watching. A couple of babes parked up that also indiscreetly stashed their keys as they went for...
This P-plate babe parked next to me and didn’t even try and be discreet when stashing her key as I was standing next to her. Then I looked where she put it and this photo doesn’t do justice to how visible it was.
With a baby it was farked in summer. If you went out early there were mozzies and midges everywhere. After 8? Too hot and humid. Took the bins out in the dark last night and all the stars were out. Beautiful cool night. Woke up to a beautiful morning with a cloudless sky, dew on the grass and a gent...
When we got that week earlier (maybe just before Easter?), or almost a week of offshore mornings, cool nights, small but fun swellls and relatively dry weather I thought the summer from hell was a thing of the past.
Then it turned into the autumn from hell.