RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Noice, skip!

For Steve -Likes the feel once you get used to it. -can cut your own rockers and replicate them -they come in big blocks that you use a Hotwire to cut the blanks out -can get rockers that may not be available from the PU moulds -got into it because Greenough was into it -can recycle all what’s not u...

Some interesting EPS discussion on the surf splendour podcast with Ellis Ericson.
Starts about 39.45 in.

Well if there was ever a swell to put Bruce Brown’s bullshitting to the test, that was it “They told us of days when the surf broke big out by the end of the cape. Seven miles further out and rolled all the way in to where we were surfing. Can you imagine riding a 15 foot wave, shaped like this for ...

Wind was supposed to be easterly up here. Straight offshore until about 10 am then very light onshore. Shortish period but good size for a club comp. Steve didn’t say it would be Easterly up there. “Lighter, more variable winds are expected in SEQLD. Plenty of fun sized E/NE swell to 3ft with the o...

Yammie by Dion Lee.

What about this wetty top?

https://au.haydenshapes.com/collections ... ill-jacket

Here ya go Steve,

https://au.haydenshapes.com/products/hs ... 0524545212

BA wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 16, 2023 2:47 pm

Yeah I don’t like that gutter. You’re a brave man.

I think it's just familiarity desensitisation.
Like, I don't think I'd rock up and paddle out at Blacks Elliston if no one was out.

BA wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 16, 2023 2:26 pm

Looks fun.

But fuck it looks sharky. Something about the colour of the water.

Well this is where I surfed alone for 2 hours.

Not where I surfed but a few fun ones here too.
This was later maybe 10am

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 16, 2023 11:19 am

Pretty sick beachie barrels here this morning.

Did you find any Buddy?

Yes, had a bank to myself 6-8am
Well not that great a bank on its own but a very shallow one and when the right peak came there were pumping lefts and rights.

Volcom backzip 3/2s are half price again.

Been a few days since I read the article but I thought Steve was saying nets work but not advocating for their use but advocating for the smart drum lines?

The people that post on social media news articles after someone has just died by shark attack, “who would think there’d be sharks in the ocean?”

Fuck, they must be the up there with the biggest losers on the planet.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 14, 2023 7:36 pm

It was pumping today.
I dawnied the Pass with son, and had a second surf at the Point.

bit of a wait, but insane when they came.

3 of us out where i went.
And then we were still spread out.
Pumping.

Yesterday first surf in a week. Was so stiff andfelt like I’d lost all fitness so quick. Hadn’t been doing my weights either. Life was work, rocking chair for the baby and a course over the weekend. Fucked up so many waves and then somehow managed to get a nice forehand and backhand baz to finish up...

Hi Steve, nice article. Felt to me like a succinct essay of all your Realsurf and swellnet comments over the last 5-8years so nothing really new there. A good read nonetheless. Personally, I have accepted the risk. I decided not surfing is detrimental to my way of living 100% and continuing surfing ...