Just general surfing stuff

Can't find the right forum, then post your general surf-related remarks here!

Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, beach_defender, Shari, Forum Moderators

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15064
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Thu Jun 27, 2019 7:17 am

Insta, gotta share this one:

My friend Bones. Too much backstory...but...in 1978 we all lived together in an old house at 7301 Draper Street, right next door to the Andersens, David and Leslie. In an attached studio lived a fully mohawked punk named Liz. In the main house was Buzzy De Philippi, Eddie Brinkman, Jeff Cyr, me, and my brother Pete. Bones lived in a shack he built on the side of the house. Pete and I were still in high school. All of us were teenagers, except Bones, who was in his early 20s. His mother was of the Nez Perce tribe, his dad was a fighter pilot at MCAS Miramar. Their marriage had failed and Bones had been drifting on his own since he was about 15. When I met him he'd already done 3 or 4 trips to Maui, living in a hidden cave at Honolua obscured by a grove of wind sculpted kiawe trees. Bones tapped the essence of surfing more than anyone I've ever known. His surfing was the purest expression of the act I've ever seen. The way he surfed, lived, dressed, valued...it was all on his own terms. Like this portrait I shot of him posted here...that's not some curated fashionista bullshit. That's just Bones, same as he ever was. He treasures his experiences, his boards, his friends, and the secret little shrines he created to live in, be they a candlelit cave, a shack on the side of a house, an abandoned WWII bunker hidden in the chaparral or under a scrub oak in a side canyon at Blacks. The Bones pads were enchanted, every object sacred, significant, and storied. His boards were battered but they were Fryes, Brewers, Diffenderfers, Hynsons...all waiting for a day with worthy waves. I had some crazy experiences with Bones, often on psychedelics. He'd speak in hushed tones about say, his Diffenderfer pintail "it's a Diff, RK, for the Bay, no wave is worthy around here...or he'd whisper about days when the rain washed out the roads to the Bay and he'd emerge from his cave to surf it alone, 10 feet and perfect, under rainbows during breaks in the storm. "Can't put that into words, RK." He had the deepest respect for the Duke. He never wore a leash in his life. "The sport of Kings, gone to the dogs" he used to say. To me, Bones has always been a King. And a fucking wizard too.

Bones is classic, there's a pic here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzLaGgwF29Y ... _copy_link
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
steve shearer
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 44822
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Fri Jun 28, 2019 9:51 am

I think this upcoming E swell is going to be about the most over-hyped, under delivered swell ever.

Unless you like surfing 3ft Tea Tree or 4 ft Crescent heads.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
Hatchnam
Duke Status
Posts: 18789
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:02 pm

Steve. How much of it do you reckon will make it down to Sydney and south NSW by Tues-Wed? I’ve seen surf sites calling 5-6 foot. Thats double overhead sets.

Over call?
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

channels
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 9918
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 4:36 pm
Location: Northen Beaches

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by channels » Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:08 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:02 pm
Steve. How much of it do you reckon will make it down to Sydney and south NSW by Tues-Wed? I’ve seen surf sites calling 5-6 foot. Thats double overhead sets.

Over call?
I reckon Narra will be all time.

User avatar
Hatchnam
Duke Status
Posts: 18789
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm

Yes. With about 500 people on it.

If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.

The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

User avatar
BA
Duke Status
Posts: 13448
Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 12:03 pm
Location: Mexico

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Fri Jun 28, 2019 7:05 pm

I don’t care if it’s being overcalled. A week of ENE swell in winter on the NB’s. Happy days.

User avatar
Thud
Duke Status
Posts: 12540
Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:21 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:38 pm

Cranked wrote:
Thu Jun 27, 2019 7:17 am
Insta, gotta share this one:

My friend Bones. Too much backstory...but...in 1978 we all lived together in an old house at 7301 Draper Street, right next door to the Andersens, David and Leslie. In an attached studio lived a fully mohawked punk named Liz. In the main house was Buzzy De Philippi, Eddie Brinkman, Jeff Cyr, me, and my brother Pete. Bones lived in a shack he built on the side of the house. Pete and I were still in high school. All of us were teenagers, except Bones, who was in his early 20s. His mother was of the Nez Perce tribe, his dad was a fighter pilot at MCAS Miramar. Their marriage had failed and Bones had been drifting on his own since he was about 15. When I met him he'd already done 3 or 4 trips to Maui, living in a hidden cave at Honolua obscured by a grove of wind sculpted kiawe trees. Bones tapped the essence of surfing more than anyone I've ever known. His surfing was the purest expression of the act I've ever seen. The way he surfed, lived, dressed, valued...it was all on his own terms. Like this portrait I shot of him posted here...that's not some curated fashionista bullshit. That's just Bones, same as he ever was. He treasures his experiences, his boards, his friends, and the secret little shrines he created to live in, be they a candlelit cave, a shack on the side of a house, an abandoned WWII bunker hidden in the chaparral or under a scrub oak in a side canyon at Blacks. The Bones pads were enchanted, every object sacred, significant, and storied. His boards were battered but they were Fryes, Brewers, Diffenderfers, Hynsons...all waiting for a day with worthy waves. I had some crazy experiences with Bones, often on psychedelics. He'd speak in hushed tones about say, his Diffenderfer pintail "it's a Diff, RK, for the Bay, no wave is worthy around here...or he'd whisper about days when the rain washed out the roads to the Bay and he'd emerge from his cave to surf it alone, 10 feet and perfect, under rainbows during breaks in the storm. "Can't put that into words, RK." He had the deepest respect for the Duke. He never wore a leash in his life. "The sport of Kings, gone to the dogs" he used to say. To me, Bones has always been a King. And a fuschia wizard too.

Bones is classic, there's a pic here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzLaGgwF29Y ... _copy_link
Sounds like an interesting cat, Cranked.
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

User avatar
Thud
Duke Status
Posts: 12540
Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:21 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:40 pm

3-4ft is the new 5-6ft.
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

User avatar
Wyre
Owl status
Posts: 4939
Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 6:23 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Wyre » Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
Yes. With about 500 people on it.

If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.

The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!
Sniff wrote:
Wed Nov 10, 2021 7:46 am
I remember some wheelchair xylophonist getting all macho about how he liked to smash absolutely heaps of Weetbix before a hard day's roofing

User avatar
jimmy
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 5637
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:12 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by jimmy » Fri Jun 28, 2019 10:36 pm

Wyre wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pm
Hatchnam wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
Yes. With about 500 people on it.

If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.

The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!
Virgins? Heavy but great wave.
Hatchnam wrote:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 1:13 pm
How about tame down the scatter gun must consecutively post on every thread behaviour you compulsive mongoloid.
swvic wrote:
Mon Feb 01, 2021 11:54 pm
Actually, that’s interesting. Take note, beanpole

User avatar
Hatchnam
Duke Status
Posts: 18789
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Sat Jun 29, 2019 5:09 am

Wyre wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pm
Hatchnam wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
Yes. With about 500 people on it.

If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.

The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!
T....... ?
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:55 am

Oh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.

In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15064
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Sat Jun 29, 2019 7:38 am

And Nick has a new superman wetsuit that he is dying to show off to the Lennox crew
Image
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
BA
Duke Status
Posts: 13448
Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 12:03 pm
Location: Mexico

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Sat Jun 29, 2019 9:52 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:55 am
Oh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.

In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
You can take Beany and pop into Crescent on the way up.

User avatar
Wyre
Owl status
Posts: 4939
Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 6:23 pm

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Wyre » Sat Jun 29, 2019 10:04 am

jimmy wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 10:36 pm
Wyre wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pm
Hatchnam wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
Yes. With about 500 people on it.

If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.

The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!
Virgins? Heavy but great wave.
Virgins is way out of my league. @hatchy, yep T....
Sniff wrote:
Wed Nov 10, 2021 7:46 am
I remember some wheelchair xylophonist getting all macho about how he liked to smash absolutely heaps of Weetbix before a hard day's roofing

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68226
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Sat Jun 29, 2019 10:28 am

Thud wrote:
Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:40 pm
3-4ft is the new 5-6ft.
Maybe they were just using real wave sizes :-D-:
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Jun 29, 2019 11:55 am

BA wrote:
Sat Jun 29, 2019 9:52 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:55 am
Oh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.

In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
You can take Beany and pop into Crescent on the way up.
Yeah I don't really think so, we'd get to one of the many oh god "secret spot" rivermouth/wall breaks before Crescent and Polebean would panic because it was 13 feet.

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68226
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Sat Jun 29, 2019 12:34 pm

Oh, I don't know.......yeah, probably would. I like Lennox with a bit of size though.......except for coming in. Got a great barrel at Tuncurry at Easter though.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 71 guests