Just general surfing stuff

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:39 pm

ctd wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 3:58 pm
It’s pretty obvious. A joule is equal to the energy transferred to an object when a force of one newton acts on that object in the direction of its motion through a distance of one metre (1 newton metre or N⋅m).

Or in other words kg * m2 / s2; where kg is the kilogram, m is the metre, s is the second

So 1000 of those

(Of course, a wave of 4ft and period of 12 seconds means nothing out of context either. It’s only because you instinctively know what that translates to in the surf relative, to other sizes and periods, that it means anything. I just measure in increments of fear)
No it's not at all obvious. A swell event spreads out across thousands of nautical miles. It strikes here and it strikes there. There's radial spread which varies enormously from swell to swell. A single swell event can span almost the entire Pacific basin. It may also focus on 200 kilometres of coastline.

Again: what does it mean? Where is that 8000 kilojoules of energy likely to be expended? Here? Over there? In what timespan? For how long?

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:45 pm

Cranked wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 4:02 pm
200kJ - barely breaking, get out your log
500kJ - surfable, use your twinny
1000kJ - have fun on your small wave board
1500kJ - good overhead surf
2000kJ - really good head and a half, some doubles
2500kJ - consistently overhead, frequent doubles
3000kL - lots of doubles, some bigger
3500kJ - only the good surfers are out
4000kJ - I'm just watching
5000kJ - a lot more are watching, guys with guns are getting most of the waves
8000kJ - 9' gun
10,000kJ - 10' gun or a ski
15,000kj - skis only
3-)
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PeepeelaPew
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by PeepeelaPew » Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:14 pm

...
Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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BA
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:15 pm

Holy shit. :roll:

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:19 pm

that was Chris cote.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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BA
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:20 pm

Either way, someone needs a punch in the throat.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:27 pm

Ah yes the spirit cave. So fleeting! So private! Except when you’re in a heat and 1.6k people are watching.

Man someone oughta take JW out and slap him.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:37 pm

I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:54 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:39 pm
ctd wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 3:58 pm
It’s pretty obvious. A joule is equal to the energy transferred to an object when a force of one newton acts on that object in the direction of its motion through a distance of one metre (1 newton metre or N⋅m).

Or in other words kg * m2 / s2; where kg is the kilogram, m is the metre, s is the second

So 1000 of those

(Of course, a wave of 4ft and period of 12 seconds means nothing out of context either. It’s only because you instinctively know what that translates to in the surf relative, to other sizes and periods, that it means anything. I just measure in increments of fear)
No it's not at all obvious. A swell event spreads out across thousands of nautical miles. It strikes here and it strikes there. There's radial spread which varies enormously from swell to swell. A single swell event can span almost the entire Pacific basin. It may also focus on 200 kilometres of coastline.

Again: what does it mean? Where is that 8000 kilojoules of energy likely to be expended? Here? Over there? In what timespan? For how long?
I'll do a really rough calculation

The formula for Kinetic energy in joules is J = (mass in kg x (velocity in meters/second) squared)/2

One litre of water weighs one kg

An oceans wave with a wave length of 100m has will have a wave speed of 12 m/sec.

If we take a section of that wave to be just 100m long and one meter wide it will contain at least 100 cubic meters of water. One cubic meter of water contains 1000 liters, so thats 100,000 liters of water moving at 13m/s

So the energy for that section of one meter of the wave is (100,000kg x 13m/s x 13m/s)/2 = 8.5 million joules The wave energy is conserved, so each 1 meter wide section of that wave when it breaks will be delivering at least 8.5 million joules

I've probably fcuked up somewhere. Feel free to point out where.
Last edited by Cranked on Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:07 pm

Sounds good to me.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:29 pm

Can someone please do a similar calculation for MM throwing a good haymaker punch.
This is more the sort of thing that would fix the concept of kinetic energy in nicks mind
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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godsavetheking
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavetheking » Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:04 am

How’s that comparison data coming along steve? Anything yet?
Beanpole wrote:
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To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:40 am

Have you not been reading?

Is west east in Wales?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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offshore1
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by offshore1 » Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:49 am

Cranked wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:54 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:39 pm
ctd wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 3:58 pm
It’s pretty obvious. A joule is equal to the energy transferred to an object when a force of one newton acts on that object in the direction of its motion through a distance of one metre (1 newton metre or N⋅m).

Or in other words kg * m2 / s2; where kg is the kilogram, m is the metre, s is the second

So 1000 of those

(Of course, a wave of 4ft and period of 12 seconds means nothing out of context either. It’s only because you instinctively know what that translates to in the surf relative, to other sizes and periods, that it means anything. I just measure in increments of fear)
No it's not at all obvious. A swell event spreads out across thousands of nautical miles. It strikes here and it strikes there. There's radial spread which varies enormously from swell to swell. A single swell event can span almost the entire Pacific basin. It may also focus on 200 kilometres of coastline.

Again: what does it mean? Where is that 8000 kilojoules of energy likely to be expended? Here? Over there? In what timespan? For how long?
I'll do a really rough calculation

The formula for Kinetic energy in joules is J = (mass in kg x (velocity in meters/second) squared)/2

One litre of water weighs one kg

An oceans wave with a wave length of 100m has will have a wave speed of 12 m/sec.

If we take a section of that wave to be just 100m long and one meter wide it will contain at least 100 cubic meters of water. One cubic meter of water contains 1000 liters, so thats 100,000 liters of water moving at 13m/s

So the for that section one meter of the wave is (100,000kg x 13m/s x 13m/s)/2 = 8.5 million joules The wave energy is conserved, so each 1 meter wide section of that wave when it breaks will be delivering at least 8.5 million joules

I've probably fcuked up somewhere. Feel free to point out where.
So how big a wave would that be cranky, in Iggy feet.

Edit: reading back I'm reckoning 15+?
Last edited by offshore1 on Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Jesus I’m surrounded by schnitzel tards.

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godsavetheking
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by godsavetheking » Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:59 am

Magic seaweed are a bunch of spastics. That’s beyond dispute. What is still up on the air is the value and accuracy of their data
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:48 pm
To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:22 am

Did you not see any of the data I posted yesterday?

Actual real data.

Would you like me to interpret it for you? I thought you liked it raw.

Aren't you on holidays?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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offshore1
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by offshore1 » Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:45 am

Godsave can't relax till this is settled Steve.
marauding mullet wrote:
Wed May 31, 2023 6:03 pm
Jesus I’m surrounded by schnitzel tards.

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:50 am

BA wrote:
Mon Aug 13, 2018 4:08 pm
Image
Lets nip these stupid implied comparisons in the bud BA. Waves don't have any trans or saturated fats and are much better for you, just pure unadulterated energy.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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