Where did you surf today ?

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:51 am

i was just walking along the street in bangkok after seeing my wife off to work and found myself having a realsurf discussion with myself, saying stuff like all you do is talk no but i walk too come on this is a discussion forum after all just do it talk walk walk talk and so on. i had to shake myself to snap out of it.

Rustt
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Rustt » Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:56 am

swvic wrote:
Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:46 am
Why is that, Nick? I'd have thought there still plenty of surfers around there amping whenever it gets bigger. Seems the ratio of chargers down here is much greater. Given the overall low number of surfers in comparison, it's weird
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swvic
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by swvic » Tue Jan 16, 2018 12:47 pm

:shock: S'pose you're right
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:03 pm

swvic wrote:
Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:46 am
Why is that, Nick? I'd have thought there still plenty of surfers around there amping whenever it gets bigger. Seems the ratio of chargers down here is much greater. Given the overall low number of surfers in comparison, it's weird
I dunno swvic, there are small packs of crew who hunt larger surf when it happens for sure but there are a lot of spots in Sydney when it really starts lighting up, I reckon a lot of non Sydney surfers would be surprised or possibly even a bit frightened

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:05 pm

Lucky Al wrote:
Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:50 am
do you talk to yourself when you're surfing nick? i seem to recall you do it when you're cooking.
Al I talk to myself all the time. It's one of the quiet embarrassments of late middle age.

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:07 pm

how's the surf today? i've seen a few pictures from wollongong. looks big!

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swvic
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by swvic » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:10 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:03 pm
swvic wrote:
Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:46 am
Why is that, Nick? I'd have thought there still plenty of surfers around there amping whenever it gets bigger. Seems the ratio of chargers down here is much greater. Given the overall low number of surfers in comparison, it's weird
I dunno swvic, there are small packs of crew who hunt larger surf when it happens for sure but there are a lot of spots in Sydney when it really starts lighting up, I reckon a lot of non Sydney surfers would be surprised or possibly even a bit frightened
The "possibly even a bit frightened" bit describes me well
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:11 pm

anyway yeah, solid 6-8' and a few bigger, super windy in bursts, did a couple of down the face aerials, fcuk they're cool! You know, when you take off and free fall through wind, the board drifts a bit then connects.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:23 pm

War of attrition surf here.

20-30 knots of cross-off to cross-on, huge volumes of water moving and zero possibility of "clean" go outs. No way to fake the paddle.
Yesterday I rode the 6'1" Ghost, under sufferance because it wasn't quite enough board for the paddle that was required and I saw Bylsey out there on a giant green board and wanted to say hello but couldn't get near him.
Big windy wide sets strafing the take-off and cleaning out the lineup. The best ones came straight in after them, in closer on the bank and doubling up. To get one took a constant amount of punishment in the ruck, you had to get your head in there and tussle for the loose ball like a terrier.
Finally got the one I wanted, big wedge that came in behind a set.
The low volume actually made it easier to sit in the impact zone.

Today was substantially bigger, proper winter swell big. Big freight-training shacks just steam-rolling through the inside section, the whole ocean moving into the wave as it does when it's big here, unlike long range long period swells which hardly affect the ocean current.
I got lucky with the timing. Was just walking the point while my son had a skateboard, saw Kidman waxing up and he had his son there so we left them there under the pandanus, I ran back to the car and grabbed a 7'6" and got back to the jump off before Kidman had even launched.
It was hilarious how much water was moving. The swell had thickened right up, spray flying everywhere. You couldn't see anyone, but there was probably a dozen people from end to end.
Kidman went past on a big one with a massive knuckle of water in front of him and got a filthy big stand up tube.
I put in ten thousand strokes before getting a bomb.

The boys were happy on the rocks. We went back and had a feed of tailor.

Tomorrow could be really solid.

Then I opened my email and there was an email, legit, offering me a free trip to the Ments.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:32 pm

Staying with the Nigerian prince? I got that one too.
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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:36 pm

free reach arounds
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:36 pm

Hi Al
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:42 pm

hi steve! i just read your post about the surf. now i'm trying to imagine what a knuckle of water looks like.

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:44 pm

are you going to go to the mentawais? do you have to write an article or is it really perfectly free?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:52 pm

I am going to go. I have to make a promo video for them as my part in the exchange of goods and services.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:23 pm

What resort?
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Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:36 pm

Howling SouEast Wind, tons of swell. Looking really ugly on the Eastern Beaches. Nielsen Park had one lone SUP rider floundering around. Manly Ferry was getting pumped crossing the heads.
Apparently there was a bull shark out at Bondi at 2:45 as well. Didn't think they liked wild surf conditions.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Rustt » Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:31 pm

Big long period swell kicking in,, lulls big enough to read a full description of a Steve Shearer surf.

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