Spring fourteen

[el rancho]

where'd you go?

I drove all the way to fingal only to get there and not have packed my wettie or wet top and I was wearing basketball shorts.

drove back and surfed wobbly wonkers that would fizzle out pretty quickly at the end of the street. fingal looked good though.

whaaa? tugun was overhead on the sets. swell dropped off overnight though

[crabmeat thompson]

water was very brown and very cold.

Upwelling for sure. Water temps dropped 3-4 deg over a day or so!!!

And FFS Braithy!!!

c'mon don, go eat a big dick old mate. fingal has been packed to the fcuking rafters with people for the last month. this one bank we've been on had 30 people on it sunday morning. completely unsurfable by 8am with too many people. its a freaking circus.


@ el rancho yeah it was overhead sets ... just washy and funky from the swell angle a slight bit of N in the offshore.

was a mad little drop but would fatten out real quick. A cnut of a paddle too. the banks are still a long way from coming back up here.

[steve shearer]

Micro G-land down here but pretty fluffy.
Water warmed back quickly today.

[crabmeat thompson]

looking at the buoy the new swell just hit here ... water should be warmed back up by tomorra morning.

not sure where to surf on the early low.

[steve shearer]

Weak signal on the Byron buoy but fcuk all swell in the water. Don't expect too much Tommoz.

[crabmeat thompson]

yeah I just paddled a k or so out to sea ... not much happening. thought there might be a coupla bumps out there.

has your beachie banks situation improved down there, shep?

[steve shearer]

not really...few bits and pieces but nothing dramatic.

[packa]

Yes, yesterday was a nice surprise, some nice kegs as the tide got to the bottom of it's run ...

And, well today ... if only the sharks had not fucked it again.

Did you check the sand out the front of the school (one between me and you?) ... ???

[Donweather]

Holy feck me, things are looking very fecking dire!!!

[steve shearer]

it';s called spring Don.

fun waves yesterday, fun waves today.

thats more than enough for the dark days of roktober.

[crabmeat thompson]

this morning & to a lesser bit yesty were like autumn.found a cracking bank. Up at 5, home by 7am and surfed out before all the dudes were even on it.


thanks be to sir joe for repelling the cancer which is daylight savings, huh shep?

[steve shearer]

yep. he did Gods work there.

more fun waves around this morning.

I got a little twinzer happening which is gobbling up bits and pieces like an obese man eats KFC.

[alakaboo]

In the daylight saving referendum residents of the southern gold coast voted for having it, about a 2/3 yes vote.

You were saved from yourselves by country bumpkins

[el rancho]

this morning & to a lesser bit yesty were like autumn.found a cracking bank. Up at 5, home by 7am and surfed out before all the dudes were even on it.


thanks be to sir joe for repelling the cancer which is daylight savings, huh shep?

local banks are back, but i surfed a more leisurely hour.
when we get a proper ese swell shit's gonna get real

[steve shearer]

that'll be Feb/March next year.

[el rancho]

anything above 2 foot will do actually

[Donweather]

local banks are back, but i surfed a more leisurely hour.

I think you'll find these are very much a function of tide and small swell heights/period.

I presume you were surfing on the high tide and inner bank. With the small swell and period, combined with high tide, the waves won't feel the outer storm bank as much. Low tide, bigger swell and period will mean the stormbank comes back into play and turns it all to sh1t again.

[el rancho]

yeah, more or less. but it's been one big shitty shordump for months and last year in the same stretch was all-time.
couple of outside banks look promising.

found another couple banks over the border but I'm sick of fucking burning petrol every morning