1ST Big Move.
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1ST Big Move.
What was the first big move that you actually made in surfing when you first started out?
Don't rightly recall. But I do recall two things;
1. My first backhand barrel, which happened at the Wedge at Whaley. Right in front of my friends paddling out.. Bragging rights!
2. A big backhand reo at North Steyne which was the first time the lip really thwacked the board at the top. A good solid 4-5' too, and me a grom. I'll never forget that one.
1. My first backhand barrel, which happened at the Wedge at Whaley. Right in front of my friends paddling out.. Bragging rights!
2. A big backhand reo at North Steyne which was the first time the lip really thwacked the board at the top. A good solid 4-5' too, and me a grom. I'll never forget that one.
- Morgan The Moon
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First solid, stable hang ten.... I could always hang five, but could never go the full tenn without losing balance of having to dart back. Then one day at crescent point, i hit a bit of a sucky section, put the ten over, and held it (and the pose)for about 10 seconds... felt like 10 minutes. Great feeling, first time i felt absoloutley perfectly in control on the nose.
bein' fat, unfit and way on the wrong side of 50 ridin' a 9 footer...seein' the look on the shortboarders faces when he does a full-on floater, vertical reo or figure 8 roundhouse cutback comes pretty close.
It wasn't me...but I think I got as much of a buzz from each wave as he did. Not often I've heard the local shortboard crew hootin' a mal!!
Also inspired me ta give 'em a try.....
It wasn't me...but I think I got as much of a buzz from each wave as he did. Not often I've heard the local shortboard crew hootin' a mal!!
Also inspired me ta give 'em a try.....
On a plank, probably a quasimodo, trying to hold back the laughter at the ridiculousness of the pose is the hardest part.
On a short board, my first so called "big move" would have been a reo I guess, or maybe a floater, or maybe a couple of big snaps under the lip one day out at Forries on a new board (which I had shaped myself). It's hard to single any one move out though as for me it has generally been a case of gradual improvement such that I can't really remember any one big jump. They all pale into insignificance when compared to your first clean barrel though.
The first time I really stood up in control in the whitewash was pretty cool. I kept riding it right into the lake entrance at Wambi while my brother Kalakau Kid was watching and cheering me on. The first time went accross a wave was pretty awesome as wqell, ahhhhh, so many memories.
On a short board, my first so called "big move" would have been a reo I guess, or maybe a floater, or maybe a couple of big snaps under the lip one day out at Forries on a new board (which I had shaped myself). It's hard to single any one move out though as for me it has generally been a case of gradual improvement such that I can't really remember any one big jump. They all pale into insignificance when compared to your first clean barrel though.
The first time I really stood up in control in the whitewash was pretty cool. I kept riding it right into the lake entrance at Wambi while my brother Kalakau Kid was watching and cheering me on. The first time went accross a wave was pretty awesome as wqell, ahhhhh, so many memories.
- the kalakau kid
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I remember when I was about 14, dropping into a west peak at sunset, around the 15 foot mark and fading left before a howling bottom turn out across the flats and straight up into the pocket. I then trimmed through to the inside, dragging my hand in the wave as i backdoored a DOH inside section and blasted out into the channel with the spit. As i recall I was riding a 9'0 Brewer pintail singlefin and hadn't bothered with a leash. BK gave me a high five as i cruised across the channel at the end......
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