RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Just wondering what do you all do when your lines finally finished and the wave suddenly peaks to a close out or starts to close into white wash before you can get off.

I've been trying to do aerial move but the waves aren't big enough to facilitate this, sometimes I'll get off just before the lip comes down and get a slap in the side of the head then just sitting on top of the rear whitewash. Is there another technique? -- eg; 180 degree duckdive? I'm just starting to get a sore head and ears from getting bitchslapped by the waves lips. Its all good fun but i'm sure there are better pros out there like the readers on this forum

LordBoard wrote:Its all good fun but i'm sure there are better pros out there like the readers on this forum

hahaha

try hitting a reverse just before the wave closes out (reverse float)

LordBoard wrote: 180 degree duckdive?

this.. or if its slabbing and decent size ride out the shocky as best i can

180Deg duckdive. I know it sounds lame... but this is what I do must of the time.

As the waves starts to close and you can't make i do a reverse spin or forward but only make it halfway 180deg and with the momentum you've got I dive the nose steeply into the remaining wave surface begining a duck dive and popping out the other end.

I find doing floaters or getting ontop of the lip kinda difficult.
How do you aggressively turn the board up into the top of the wave when its closing or at its steepest best? .. I find the wave tries to push me out when I try to turn into it, even when trimming. I know it can be done but my technique probably sucks.

Do I let go of the inside rail? I'm guessing my weight trimming into the wave might make it hard to get the board going up into the wave as its pushing forward and down.

um.. if the wave is manageable enough you've gotta use your weight to get yourself under- not through the wave.. if its big you just bail or try and ride out the shocky cuz you're gonna get more fisted when you get sucked back in.

it takes a bit of getting used to, but try putting all your weight on your pivoting arm when your commencing it and use your leading hand to get the nose down- almost like you are diving, don't just go into the face of the wave- try and go under-- trying to go through the wave is gonna get you sucked backed into the pit basically so make sure you go under and the wave and let it pass over you..

as far as trimming and such goes, use your inside leg if you're struggling- apply some downward pressure on it and it will allow you to track much straighter as it basically extends your rail (this will slow you down but), this also keeps your pegs in the face-- but maybe your board might be too big

Pull in and enjoy the view.

Hozameen wrote:Pull in and enjoy the view.

too right mate...too right...if it's not too big, just pull in and enjoy. If it's big and you're a kamikaze (like those guys surfing Waimea shorebreak), pull in and enjoy your beating...

it it's big, and you don't enjoy getting bitchslapped, apply your 180 degree thingy...