Hmm hard one.
I'd really have to say everything from 1-12ish (backs).
Kinda' depends on me and how I 'felt' about the surf-I've had shit surfs in epic waves and epic surfs in shit waves-like I always say to my wife when she asks how it was (she surfs too-well she's a booger-and she surfed it all from G-Land to Puerto and back-but that's another story)-it doesn't really matter how the waves were, but how much I enjoyed myself.
Matt
perfect sized waves
Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, Shari, Forum Moderators
i agree with loco.
Its all about mindstate and how you feel at the time for me.
I also beleive its how the waves are breaking and how crowded the beach is too. I would rather surf a beach with 2 foot clean surf with noone around then go out into 4- 6 foot where the take off spot is cluttered with about 30 bodies all within a metre off each other. I get so frustrated, you end up catching like 2 waves and the rest are dogged by people who drop in on you etc.
That said i like 4 - 6 foot the best, not big enough to scare the beejeezus out of me but still fast enough to go hard, pull into decent barrells with out being a booger and having to get way down.
Its all about mindstate and how you feel at the time for me.
I also beleive its how the waves are breaking and how crowded the beach is too. I would rather surf a beach with 2 foot clean surf with noone around then go out into 4- 6 foot where the take off spot is cluttered with about 30 bodies all within a metre off each other. I get so frustrated, you end up catching like 2 waves and the rest are dogged by people who drop in on you etc.
That said i like 4 - 6 foot the best, not big enough to scare the beejeezus out of me but still fast enough to go hard, pull into decent barrells with out being a booger and having to get way down.
"And the way the rain comes down hard, that's how i feel inside..."
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 29 guests