Shorter or Longer?

Tribal discussion for shortboarders

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Freestyler
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Shorter or Longer?

Post by Freestyler » Fri Mar 22, 2013 1:14 pm

Been riding shorter, more volumed boards lately as per the trend in board making. Which is cool in smaller, less than average waves. But wondering on merits of shorter versus longer when it comes to good waves, say anything 4' and over with a bit of power. Reason thought about this, got caught on 5'10" in solid medium sized beachie waves recently and while got some great waves, also got flogged getting in late. Now realise much depends on fitness and ability. So the question is directed at us older surfers. I'm 55, fit, surf everyday, riding anything from 5'10, 6', 6'8". So should us older blokes buck the sub 6' trend and have "go to board" over 6'.

Freestyler
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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Freestyler » Fri Mar 22, 2013 1:59 pm

Second thought: Shorter, fatter gives you more volume so helps with paddling, so heavier guys can surf smaller boards, but it gives you a shorter waterline, which surely works against paddling. And once up on a wave a shorter rail line means tighter turns, but drawing out turns around sections can be problematic.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:25 pm

Surfing short boards in big surf is for high skill level surfers.

surfing short fat boards in big surf is a mug's game, they don't fit.

If you like surfing good waves (ie anything double overhead or more in good conditions) you should have a good board to surf 'em. Maybe more than one.

Freestyler
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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Freestyler » Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:47 pm

Agree Nick. But I wasn't actually talking about BIG waves, just good quality waves in a decent average-man's range. Our generation grew up surfing single fins when the average length was around 6'6". We are now surfing great performance boards under 6' as go to boards, some 40 years later. Thankful for such developments that help me keep surfing well. But just pondering whether we might be better off on something in the low 6' range for those good days. Trying to get one up on those sneaky guy fellas.

Beanpole
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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Beanpole » Fri Mar 22, 2013 10:51 pm

Yep I've been wondering myself lately. Definitely depends on the wave versus the size I reckon. I got a fairly gunny board a few years ago but it has rarely been what I was hoping for in good reasonably big hollow conditions. Now I still keep thinking I'm going to pull up and have perfect surf and it will fire but its never does. Where as my everyday bord is about a foot shorter and definitely 6" shorter than I would have normally imagined riding a few years ago. Goes great 85% of the time but being high volume big tail it doesn't always feel like going down the face on take offs when its bigger.

Rocker appears to be the biggest issue and the fact that a late take off is a dodgy proposition at my age when its big.
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Beanpole
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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Beanpole » Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:02 pm

After reading Nick's comments re: fins in the general section I might try some smaller ones in my gunny board. It had the same ones recommended that are recommended for my old mctavish carver which has a much wider tail.
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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by oldman » Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:09 pm

I have a 6'2'' quad and a 6'10'' thruster pintail.

I'm not going longer, the 6'10' can get me into waves at the peak of my comfort zone and beyond, and the 6'2'' is perfect for anything smaller.

I'm not buying the short fat boards, but I do have a bit of extra foam in both of them compared to what you would find in a shop, but they are traditional shapes.

No question though, there is room for one more in the middle there.
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Beanpole
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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Beanpole » Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:14 pm

I bought a second hand quad fish a year or so ago and it totally changed my ideas about where I was going with my surfing and what I could do. Now have a round tail quad 6'6". Seriously thinking of another fish though when time and money allow it.
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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Freestyler » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:44 pm

Got a 6' Lost "Rock Up" as a step up board (replacing a 6'3" JS Occy), and it goes great in bigger waves. Paddles in like a bigger board due to wider front half, draws out turns as back is pulled in rounded pin, but is shorter so easier to turn, its 2 boards in one, same design principle as Josh Kerr's Rusty "Slayer". Thinking of trying smaller TC Redline fins to see if it works in smaller waves then it could be an everyday board, but tail might be too gunny. Any thoughts? Also anyone tried a Simon Anderson SXE, and what size, I looking at a 6'3"/6'4"

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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Natho » Thu May 09, 2013 1:35 pm

The SXE is a great board for good waves, however keep in mind that the volume of the SXE is lightly lower relative to the equivalent say XFC, so you may want to go a fraction wider or thicker than say a normal XFC or similar of the same length. The SXE has a bit more rocker curve, but is a super quick board relative to the amount of curve. While I like the SXE Im using an XFC rounded pin myself as a step up board for around double overhead and loving it. MY XFC step up is 6'1 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4, so if i was to go an SXE I may go a fraction wider, say 18 3/8. I dunno, I just prefer to go a little wider than thicker. I guess I found the SXE had a little more rocker than I needed , but then again I tend to like a bit less rocker myself. The SXE is still out of a great mould.

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Re: Shorter or Longer?

Post by Natho » Thu May 09, 2013 1:43 pm

On another note try and look through the fancy marketing names for boards and who is riding them and choose a board based on a design and feel that suits you. Sometimes its good to ignore what the model decal is on the board. This is when choosing off the rack, or at least looking through racks of boards can be good. Touch em, feel em, stick them under your arm, lay them on the floor, feel the bottom. Its a bit like rooting but with boards its good to do the above before you look to see if it has blonde or brunette on the decal.

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