Duckdiving Larger Waves

[Freestyler]

After scoring some great waves on Monday, but coping a few floggings trying to duck dive my 7 footer after months of ridin a 6'1", lookin for a few tips on duck diving larger waves. Have tried various techniques, found knees less successful as board more bouyant, feet better but more unstable.
Also wondering on dimensions of longer boards for Sydney big days, other boards 6'1" & 6'6" have same dimensions, 18 3/4, 2 5/16, but the 7' is 2nd hand so it comes thicker 2 8/16. Perhaps I'd be better comin down a few inches 6'10" and/or thinner.
Appeciate any thoughts. Oh, I not lookin at charge hell waves just around the 8ft range.
Thanks

[longbum]

depends on what waves really you want to surf it in.
8ft down here I will still only ride a 608 as the waves are a lot hollower so need something that will fit in.
Bigger isn't always better, I suggest going down but again I'm not sure what waves you are surfin.

[Freestyler]

Longer board mainly for larger days at local beachies, like this week's ECL produced, as few reefs/points around my area and to stick in the board for annual o/s trip.

[fong]

6'1" & 6'6" have same dimensions, 18 3/4, 2 5/16,

u don't like the 6'6 in bigger stuff :?

sounds ideal

than just use your 7' on the really strong offshore days ( the extra size works great against a big wind)....or as a backup if u break the 6'6

p.s i have no idea how avoid getting work in duckdives...

i've been belted last 5 days in a row

[muggo]

When it gets larger there's really no way out of copping a bit of a flogging when duckdiving, you'll always get thrashed around a bit. When duckdiving in bigger stuff just think of it as damage control rather than conflict avoidance

[Nick Carroll]

Freestyler for a good step up from your normal board in 4-8' Sydney surf just build in more volume, not more length.

Ie if you're riding 6'1" x those dimensions you mentioned, go up to 6'5" round pin with a little more foam under the chest, like 2 3/8", and similar marginal increase in width.

A 7'0" is too big for any but the most feral maximal Sydney beachie (ie big Nth Av in a 8'+ NE groundswell), and even then you can get away with less length than you think. It's more about paddling speed and a slightly chunkier mid range board will equal a slender longer board in that regard.

Me, I'm 74kg and ride a 6'1/2" x18 1/4" x 2 1/4", then go to 6'3" x 18 1/4" x 2 5/16" up to six feet plus. Then a 6'5" in 8' waves. Only bother with a 7'0" if I'm feeling like pulling a 1970s imitation or the bombie reefs are 10-12', and then it's a fair dinkum 7'0" : a 7'1" actually, 18 1/2" x 2 7/16", solid board with a fair bit of overseas big surf under its stringer.

Re duckdiving, god there's been a few threads on this matter, I'll spare you repetition, just go search the forum...but I will say it works to approach larger waves in exactly the same fashion as you do smaller ones. Ie don't back off, paddle fast into it, put the board down sideways, use your foot not your knee, and let the board do the work of resurfacing.

[Freestyler]

Thanks the good advice Nick.
I happy to have shorter board under feet once on the wave. The main idea with the 7' was paddling, getting in earlier. But see slightly thicker in mid-section will do same. Will look around for one.

[whitey]

My approach to duckdiving the bigger ones is to let out a feeble squeel, dickdive as deep as I can, then hold on to the board wrapping myself around it...

The squeel is the key to sucsess though

[The Mighty Sunbird]

'put the board down sideways'
I don't get it. I always push the nose down and head for bottom. Is it recommended to tilt to the side as well?

[Nick Carroll]

Yes. If you tilt your board to one side, onto the nose rail, there's less surface area and thus less initial water resistance, thus you sink quicker.

Once down, turn the board so it's flat again, and it'll resist re-surfacing.

[BA]

Yes. If you tilt your board to one side, onto the nose rail, there's less surface area and thus less initial water resistance, thus you sink quicker.

Once down, turn the board so it's flat again, and it'll resist re-surfacing.

Shit Nick. After 25 odd years surfing, I had never heard of that. Can't wait to give it a go now. You do learn something everyday.

[Natho]

Yeh, sounds like the extra large board you were riding was actualy causing you problems out there.

Nick's comments re not needing to go as long in Sydney are spot on. A board that is too big can cause you issues. In fact i also noticed this in Bali this year. Guys just riding boards that were way too big, and gettin belted coz they could't duck dive.

Im pretty much the exact weight and height at NC. I ride 6'0 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4. On Saturday and Sunday I took out a 6'2 version of the same board, just with a rounded pin and slightly more foam distributed under the chest. I found it spot on.

On Saturday afternoon I tested a brand new 6'6 that was slightly thicker. I actualy found the extra foam and length caused me issues out there. And yes you had to use the old foot to get her under for a duck dive. Also I found myself having to contstantly cut back as the extra length meant I was eating up the best parts of the wave too quickly. Kind of like when you hook up with a hot chick when ur younger and its over much quicker than you would have liked. I found myself heading back to shore to grab my 6'2 again.

[aitch]

Nick nailed it, use your toe not your knee.

[Freestyler]

Thanks Natho, I headin to Bali in August and was also wondering about the big board over there after Monday's floggings. Must admit on o/s trips usually ride my 6'1" and occassionally pull out 6'6" for 8ft waves. Think will use same plan around Sydney and look for a slightly thicker 6'6" or 6'8" as a third board and let the 7 footer gather dust in garage.

[Natho]

Depends Freestyler.

If you plan to surf 10 - 15 foot Outside Corner then sure take ya 7 footer. If not leave it at home and save yourself lugging around a big board that you would be lucky to use once.

[Freestyler]

"10 - 15 foot Outside Corner"
Thats outside my comfort zone these days.
Solid 8, with a few bomb sets every now and again, is my limit these days, don't think the old body could take any more.

[fong]

My approach to duckdiving the bigger ones is to let out a feeble squeel, dickdive as deep as I can, then hold on to the board wrapping myself around it...

The squeel is the key to success though

try your technique today

works well...once i got the high pitch of the squeel just right

and i've added too it whitey....as i surface....i time it soo i come up a little too early....than i kinda lose balance on my board....weight tooo far forward....so as the foam sux's me a good ten feet back i actually have the nose the board and my head under water...bum sticking up

i call it the turtle ...than i fall off the board....climb back on....squeeel....the process repeats

[crack]

Open your eyes,try and guide yourself through the holes in the turbulance