banda aceh

[Clif]

does anyone know if one can still go into aceh with the martial law in place?

tried the govt. websites but they don't say if you can still go in. and the restrictions were supposed to stop in may? still the go?

thx for any info guys

[roosters]

can i ask why
isnt that place going through hell right now?

[Clif]

my friend lives in a town on the coast just above sim. want to take some stuff to him and his families as he would be doing it very tough. also, we surf on some islands near ...

[BB]

Not DL is it clif? He was an old Curly boy with a Canadian accent.

[JVC]

does anyone know if one can still go into aceh with the martial law in place?

tried the govt. websites but they don't say if you can still go in. and the restrictions were supposed to stop in may? still the go?

thx for any info guys

Hi Clif,

This is a letter of hope.

If this letter is a little heavy, or a little political; if it is not of interest to you, then I apologise. Although there are a bunch of my thoughts about our world in general, read on - I have some thoughts for you on travel in the Northern third of Sumatra.

Read what's relevant and simply discard what's not of use to you, or better, pass it for others to read anyway.

I know nothing of you except you probably surf like I do. We are truly fortunate to be surfers. If I'm telling you to suck eggs - I apologise.

Travel is an amazing, highly formative and educational adventure as you probably already know.

I believe it should be mandatory for all people with the means, to spend at least one year in at least one non Western nation. To spend one year with people who don't live the materialist luxury and decadence of so many in the west. One year with people who struggle daily just to survive whilst the big Western Corporations and Governments possibly benefit by exploiting their resources, or where the "Big West" has gone and plundered before.

I do not consider myself a radical and am certainly not a racist. I feel; provided no other person is disadvantaged or pushed against their inner guide, that we should all be free to pursue or own philosophical path.

I also feel like many, that the Western governments and Corporations are responsible for many of the problems in our world today. I have met and know many Muslim people as well as people from many other denominations. I believe all people are intrinsically good and simply want to achieve inner peace.

I do not consider myself to be of any particular religious denomination however I do find joy in The Tao - have a look at The Tao of Pooh by Benjamin Hoff if you want to know more about this anciant philosophy.

I denounce terrorism as much as I denounce Western and other governments and corporations exploiting nations and their peoples.

I believe we all have right to live in dignity, peace and with love irrespective of race or creed.

If you're a Muslim, don't have an Australian accent, can speak fluent Indonesian and understand the customs and requirements of Islamic Fundamentalists then you probably do not need to read on.

If not, think very carefully about why you'd want to get up to Banda Aceh against the backdrop of the cuurent craziness surrounding the West and terrorism.

Have you been to Aceh before?

I have travelled extensively (close to 5 years elapsed time) in South East Asia, Mongolia, Russia and several former Soviet States, through much of South America and Europe. I've had my fair share of experiences, good and not so good. My worst experience in travel was in Lhong Gayo just outside of Banda Aceh.

I have travelled in Bali, Lombok, West Java and Sumatra on six separate occasions. I was in Banda Aceh and other parts of Aceh Besar 10 years ago and yes - the surf and potential are brilliant.

That being said, on my way down the coast I got into very serious trouble as I was basically tricked and imprisoned by a village elder in Lhong Gayo just 60 or 70 kilometres South of Banda Aceh.

I went to the village of Lhong Gayo on what I believed was sound advice from a young man I befriended from a fishing village just outside of Banda Aceh where I stayed for a week. To this day I believe he was advising me with integrity. There are many good people in North Sumatra. This guy warned me not to venture into several villages as "You will be shot" and in turn told me where it was safe to go. I believe I was very lucky to get away with my life, escaping from my captor in the middle of the night and, terrified, making my way to the police and the army.

Accompanied by two police officers and three army personnel, I went back to retrieve my stuff. There were four or five people in the jungle around the house with flashlights searching for me (I believe) as we were arriving at the elder's house. The Police questioned the elder (who was now dressed in his finest and very strange clothes) for about forty minutes and we retrieved my boards, money, passports and other possessions. After we returned to the Police Station the commander told me he will be locking the village elder (my captor) away for three days.

Deeply concerned for my safety, I begged the Police Commander not to lock this guy up however they insisted. I hightailed it out of the region, escorted by the police, and was chased by people from the village for several days before finally escaping South to Medan.

Thankfully, many stories do have a good ending and I did eventually score classic Nias at 10 foot plus (thats old school 10 foot).

What I've told you are the bones of what is a long story.

Suffice to say - This region was VERY DANGEROUS back in 1994 and I can only believe it is FAR MORE SO NOW that we have this terrible inflamation of racial tension around the ideas of the West and Islam.

Once again, if you're a Muslim, don't have an Australian accent, can speak fluent Indonesian and understand the customs and requirements of Islamic Fundamentalists then maybe you can go to Aceh feeling relatively safe. If you do not have the requirements of one of the abovementioned qualities I suggest you consider staying further South and steer clear of Banda Aceh and the entire top third of Sumatra. Remember, some of these guys (some ACEH Islamists) are trying to establish an Islamic State in the top third of Sumatra (and have been for many years). They do not want foreigners there at the moment.

People do disappear including travellers.

Think very carefully about what other options you have to visiting Banda Aceh and the region around it.

I consider myself a lot more experienced as a traveller and in general than I was in 1994, as I said earlier, I am not a racist (I'm actually part Asian and Anglo Australian with British decendants), I surf and snowboard and am not a dummy. I WOULD NOT CONSIDER AS WISE A VISIT TO NORTHERN SUMATRA. Unless you are Islamic and can correctly answer my criterea mentioned earlier, I'd compare the decision to go to Banda Aceh with a request to be dropped by helicopter into a huge cyclone swell, 5 kilometres off shore, in fierce winds, at night and attempting to swim to shore.

You were meant to get my message and I send it to you with my love of our world and nature as the central purpose.

I hope the madness of this world will pass, the oppressed will truly be freed from oppression and we will all be able to genuinely learn to live together, harmoniously and peacefully.

Make your travel decision with your heart and consider what your friends and family might suggest having read this letter.

Best wishes,

JVC

[BB]

To throw a little more light on JVCs comments. Last year the Indonesian Government offered Aceh virtually full autonomy including the right to impose Islamic law in an attempt to settle the dispute....the rebels refused. The Indonesian military have never been known for their respect for human rights so I wouldn't attempt to justify their behaviour in Aceh but there was a viable political solution on the table and the rebels turned it down.

At the time this was happening The Sydney Morning Herald described them as "freedom fighters" which seemed completely absurd to me, I would agree with JVC on the evidence available these are Islamic terrorists fully intent on turning Aceh into another Afghanistan. I wouldn't go there, not even by boat. Piracy is still very common and a boat load of surfers would be easy pickings.

[nubby]

F#@K ME JVC!!!!!!!! thats intense!!!!!!how the f#@k did you actually escape? good your still with us but mate..............and that swell ya got at nias, was it in august on the full moon? if so, we surfed it together mate. was there in 94 just after that comp they had. if its that same swell champ, go have a read of the 'so true, so true' thread and check out me story called ON THE ROAD AGAIN, its all about that day!

[Clif]

a VERY interesting reply. thankyou for taking the time! i have gone to aceh, not last year but the three years prior. never had any troubles and am sad to see that others have not been so lucky. we stick to the coastal regions and abide by islamic law. concentrating on major townships we avoid community politics to a certain degree. keeping my mouth shut has helped. not that it seemed to help you much. my close friend made a comment on GAM and all hell broke loose in a cafe on the side of the road. an M16 in our faces is not comfortable. i go to meaulaboh and the islands off the coast from here are relatively calm compared to up north. banda Aceh seems to be the focus although GAM do operate further south. i don't know the canadian guy? but several local families have been kind to us and accomodate us all the time. we were hearing from them but the letters dried up. quite unusual for them i can say. i am unsure if martial law means no travelling. i know it sounds like a risk to go in and we are still waiting to see what happens in the recent elections. As for rejecting the peace plan, the autonomy still left the wealth in the hands of the army and logging companies. All based in Jakarta. Certain autocratic business people were the only ones to be appointed as 'puppet' admin. the people who have considerable influence and admirable goals are currently in exile in europe ... Sweden i think. they were not allowed to participate in the 'peace' process. Aceh is considered the new East Timor by many people involved. Abductions by the military are not uncommon and they hassle us unless we pay, and pay well. while we love getting the waves ... and some are way better than Nias. true. the main concern is the families. but thanks for your advice. it was great. hope you find that perfect secret spot you are looking for. mine is currently in the middle of a civil war. bummer.

[Nikko]

It all up to you cliff.
Having read all the previous personally I wouldn't go.
The people who live there have a choice in the matter as do you.
One thing that I kept thinking was if you get youself into trouble there is no way you can help them if you cant help yourself.
Perhaps help from afar might be the only relistic option but as I said at the start, it's up to you.
Whatever you do do I wish you luck.
Regards
Nikko

P.S. After you and I die the waves will continue to pump. There is always another set looming....