Copped mine on the weekend. Local reef break on Sunday, reasonably heavy but not a massive day by any means. Had been surfing for a couple hours and had about 10 absoltuely perfect big ones under my belt - one of which was a full stand up barrel without being touched and then getting spat out. My mate and I agreed to head home, he caught the first wave of the set, pulled in, didn't make it and got held under for ever. I got the second wave in the set, took off way too late and got pitched over the falls onto my back, hit the reef with my arm, got sucked over again and hit the reef a second time with my knee. Also blew out $100 bucks of kelly carbon fins. Thank fuck the board survived.
What is your worst belting?
Your biggest flogging
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BB
Over the falls on the main peak at sizeable Sunset. It was my first year, I was caught inside and made that classic mistake of thinking I could punch through. I didn't make it, got pulled over backwards so I was actually in the fcuking lip.
It's the only time I've ever thought I was going to blackout.....they say you never get longer than a 30 second hold down there but I tell you if that's true it was the longest thirty seconds of my life.
It's the only time I've ever thought I was going to blackout.....they say you never get longer than a 30 second hold down there but I tell you if that's true it was the longest thirty seconds of my life.
yeah getting sucked over the falls twice by the same wave sux
It happened to my on a wave that was only about 3ft, and both impacts, i don't think i hit the sand but i experianced the most force in my life. I just got these two consectutive explosions just around my head and neck area, and it was the exact same both times. Im not sure how to explain it really, it was odd. My eyes and well just about my whole head and neck felt sore afterwoods, but no injury. Scary considering how small the wave was :?
It happened to my on a wave that was only about 3ft, and both impacts, i don't think i hit the sand but i experianced the most force in my life. I just got these two consectutive explosions just around my head and neck area, and it was the exact same both times. Im not sure how to explain it really, it was odd. My eyes and well just about my whole head and neck felt sore afterwoods, but no injury. Scary considering how small the wave was :?
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Nick Carroll
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
OK, bugger it.
At the age of 23 I went surfing at Sunset bloody Beach one early morning in a 10-15-foot NW fresh swell, thinking I was king s**t as always. Only about 10 guys out, high tide. Got a couple of beauties. God I am soooo good, I thought, I'll paddle really deep and close in. Then you bet, a 12-foot-plus set came, a wall from the north and a peak from the west all at once directly focused on yours truly. Nowhere to paddle, and it broke about 20 yards in front of me. Dived down. Legrope snapped. Fell through a turbulence pillar all the way to the bottom. The ensuing two waves actually held me down on the reef, this just inside the second reef takeoff zone where it's probably 20 feet deep. They didn't bash me around too badly but absolutely refused to let me push off the bottom. First there was the oh my God don't freak out phase. Then the no, hell, this is sort of fun phase. Then the stars in front of your eyes phase. Then the arms turning to rubber phase. Then the fight like a wild animal with barely any strength remaining phase. Then the worst of all, the who cares phase. This is not a good phase when you're 20 feet underwater and a 15-foot closeout set is detonating somewhere overhead.
Finally clawed my way up after the third wave and couldn't breathe because of all the foam and shit on the surface.
That was it, a three wave hold-down, not that uncommon among the hardcore Sunset crew of the time, I'd smoked a packet of Dunhill a day for five years prior to this and immediately gave up smoking there and then and haven't smoked since, though unbelievably still sometimes dream of it (smoking that is, not the flogging). Took another few months to give up the cones but.
At the age of 23 I went surfing at Sunset bloody Beach one early morning in a 10-15-foot NW fresh swell, thinking I was king s**t as always. Only about 10 guys out, high tide. Got a couple of beauties. God I am soooo good, I thought, I'll paddle really deep and close in. Then you bet, a 12-foot-plus set came, a wall from the north and a peak from the west all at once directly focused on yours truly. Nowhere to paddle, and it broke about 20 yards in front of me. Dived down. Legrope snapped. Fell through a turbulence pillar all the way to the bottom. The ensuing two waves actually held me down on the reef, this just inside the second reef takeoff zone where it's probably 20 feet deep. They didn't bash me around too badly but absolutely refused to let me push off the bottom. First there was the oh my God don't freak out phase. Then the no, hell, this is sort of fun phase. Then the stars in front of your eyes phase. Then the arms turning to rubber phase. Then the fight like a wild animal with barely any strength remaining phase. Then the worst of all, the who cares phase. This is not a good phase when you're 20 feet underwater and a 15-foot closeout set is detonating somewhere overhead.
Finally clawed my way up after the third wave and couldn't breathe because of all the foam and shit on the surface.
That was it, a three wave hold-down, not that uncommon among the hardcore Sunset crew of the time, I'd smoked a packet of Dunhill a day for five years prior to this and immediately gave up smoking there and then and haven't smoked since, though unbelievably still sometimes dream of it (smoking that is, not the flogging). Took another few months to give up the cones but.
like on sunday at warriewood, late drop into a 5-6fter, bottom turned, up into the barrel, way too deep n it all shut out on me, waiting for the massive impact and hardly anything, just got shoved out the back, biggest relief. when i saw i was in there too deep n saw the lip thickness i was just sayin "get me the Fark outta here..."flip wrote:bbbb-bbbbleet! ye the beauty of big waves wen u dont make it sometimes is it jus spits u rite out the back, on the otha hand this doesnt happen all the time and u do get long hold downs. But, up to 3ft u can constantly get sucked ova 4 sum reason. Nastly lil buggers ay
BTW, was anyone at warriewood on sunday?!?!?! pure bliss, 6ft possibly a few bombs bigger. bloody hard to get out, i got lucky tho n managed to get out sumhow... got a nice snapped leash from that day, loved it, i was out from i think 7:30 or 8ish till 11
I got lost in a cave at Chinamans SA one time. 6ft and cracking barrels, perfect day, 8 guys out, beautiful sunshine and I get tossed under the limestone shelf with my leggie snagged on an outcrop and sharp rock shelf bashing the top of my head.
Freaked me out, what, legs went to jelly, brain was starting to fade before I managed to get the leggy off and break outa that dark tomb. My wettie was cut and my left leg was gashed and a coupla fingers where slashed. Foorking limestone. As I broke the surface a stranger was just reaching the roks from the carpark to do the big rescue and another mate in the line up had just noticed me missing.
A coupla mates dove for my board and managed to cut it free from the plug it was snagged on and it breached the surface like a missile from a sub.
Had a few beers that night back at the Marion Bay shack as the boys started dividing up my surf gear
This one time ... I lost my board way out the back at Joanna with the old rip raging along. After a hell sideways swim I ended up going over the falls twice in that god aweful shorebreak the place is famous for. Not much fun that swim either. Not many people around Joanna in 1978 either.
Freaked me out, what, legs went to jelly, brain was starting to fade before I managed to get the leggy off and break outa that dark tomb. My wettie was cut and my left leg was gashed and a coupla fingers where slashed. Foorking limestone. As I broke the surface a stranger was just reaching the roks from the carpark to do the big rescue and another mate in the line up had just noticed me missing.
A coupla mates dove for my board and managed to cut it free from the plug it was snagged on and it breached the surface like a missile from a sub.
Had a few beers that night back at the Marion Bay shack as the boys started dividing up my surf gear
This one time ... I lost my board way out the back at Joanna with the old rip raging along. After a hell sideways swim I ended up going over the falls twice in that god aweful shorebreak the place is famous for. Not much fun that swim either. Not many people around Joanna in 1978 either.
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One Mile Point
- Snowy McAllister
- Posts: 5643
- Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2004 5:44 pm
man i hate it when you get forced into taking larger waves cause your frustrated.wanto wrote:was getting frustrated and took a bom
My biggest beating was not in surfing but in football.
Last year for School state knockout i got shoulder charged yea alright hurt a bit was a bit dizzy took the tackle, about 3 secs later these two guys kneed me in the face and started laying in to me it was only me and the hooker cause everyone was getting rdy for the kick 30secs later i finnaly escasped, copped 15 punched 3 knees 1 shoulder charge 15 stitches and got semi-knocked out. We ended up vsing this team again and i got them back not through violence but by big hits
Mine was out at pines (avoca) roughly 7-8ft.. I took off on one of the bigger sets, got bounced off my board by some chop.. Skimmed down the face of the wave, just as i stopped skimming the lip smacked my in the back. driving me really deep... and just rolling me along... I finnally came up to cop the next wave ont the head... I just got held under for yonks...
.Whitey.
.Whitey.
i have been over the falls 3 times out at deadies... 2 of them within 2 days of eachother.... the first one was really bad but.
the first one i can remember kind of and it was the worst and one of the more scarier experiences. i was at winki and deadies was going nuts so i wondered over there by myself. waited for a minute and a set comes around 8ft... i miss it cus someone was on the inside even though he pulls off.
i missed a few more and was starting to get a bit pissed of cus i hadent got a wave.... then this massive set comes out of no where... woulda been 10ft easy.
no one paddled for it so i said fuck it im going i dont care. i take off, bounce down about 3 steps go to bottom turn, rail doesnt catch, rail then catches quickly and i go flying towards the lip. i throw my board and it just sucks me up and up and then lets me go at the top. i land and the lip lands on me. both flippers come off and the savers rip off too, the leash snaps when the lip lands and i stay down for around 10seconds...
i pop up and get another set to the head which drags me into the rocks. i find a rock to hide behind and then eventually crawl out.
the 2 that were around the same time wernt actually that bad for me but im sure they did look worse than they really are...
this is the second time i went over... at least im pretty sure this is the wave:
i ended up doing a massive frontflip down the face and landing feet first
sequence: taken by shmell
this was the third time i went over.... there was a surfer on the inside of me and he couldnt make up his mind.... witch meant that i was hesitant to go because i didnt want to drop in. he pulled off and i made a last effort for it but didnt get into it. the result was a frontflip over the falls
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the first one i can remember kind of and it was the worst and one of the more scarier experiences. i was at winki and deadies was going nuts so i wondered over there by myself. waited for a minute and a set comes around 8ft... i miss it cus someone was on the inside even though he pulls off.
i missed a few more and was starting to get a bit pissed of cus i hadent got a wave.... then this massive set comes out of no where... woulda been 10ft easy.
no one paddled for it so i said fuck it im going i dont care. i take off, bounce down about 3 steps go to bottom turn, rail doesnt catch, rail then catches quickly and i go flying towards the lip. i throw my board and it just sucks me up and up and then lets me go at the top. i land and the lip lands on me. both flippers come off and the savers rip off too, the leash snaps when the lip lands and i stay down for around 10seconds...
i pop up and get another set to the head which drags me into the rocks. i find a rock to hide behind and then eventually crawl out.
the 2 that were around the same time wernt actually that bad for me but im sure they did look worse than they really are...
this is the second time i went over... at least im pretty sure this is the wave:
i ended up doing a massive frontflip down the face and landing feet first
sequence: taken by shmell
this was the third time i went over.... there was a surfer on the inside of me and he couldnt make up his mind.... witch meant that i was hesitant to go because i didnt want to drop in. he pulled off and i made a last effort for it but didnt get into it. the result was a frontflip over the falls
[/img]haha thats some funny shit (aslong as your fine now) ps its electrocutedfong wrote: i've electricity myself on a few occasions thats heavy. you can't let go of something but your trying knock it out of your hand but your other hands fully spastic and everyone at works just starin at me freakin out.
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