what do you think of

Post by **Johnno** » Mon May 30, 2005 5:50 am

Yeah I remember if it is a stand out wave seen to go back over it on the paddle back out think of what worked what didn't and charge again.

Sometimes I might think to much on the next one and get ahead of myself and stuff it due to me getting to far ahead of myself like thinking of that first big snap off the lip but blow the the bottom turn as I'm to fired up and dig the rail.

Remember pulling into suck up one day at DY and looking out from the green room to see an ambulance under lights and siren coming around the bends at longy and thinking to myself well I'm having a better day than who ever is in the back of that and how many ppl in the world would be in a position to see that from inside suck up.

Post by **mandoora** » Mon May 30, 2005 9:07 am

depends on how well i am surfing at the time... and what it is that I am working on at the time. Eg. if my backhand is really lagging and I am working on it, then I will be thinking about the things that I usually forget that make me feck up most times (eg. shoulders, or back foot). On the odd occasions that I am surfing well I have a big smile on my face thinking how stoked I am to be riding this wave well.

either way, i'm thinking about the wave or my style (or lack of

) in some form or other.

Post by **macca202** » Mon May 30, 2005 9:10 am

well i guess i usually think just about the wave, but often when i come off the wave, i forget what the wave was like. Like its as though i just wasn't paying attention or something. Bad short term memory doesn't help.

I never think about things outside of surfing once im on the wave, unless its a foamball im riding into the shore, late to work as always.

Post by **oldman** » Mon May 30, 2005 10:11 am

When I have caught the wave and look up and see the face of the wave ahead, I am thinking of nothing. It is a zen moment that lasts a milli-second, and yet lasts forever.

I take snap shots for my mental photo album, to be used at later times when I need to remember just how good it can be.

When I am riding the wave I try not to let my conscious mind get in the way. I am trying to flow with the wave and be intuitive rather than rational.

Post by **evow** » Mon May 30, 2005 11:10 am

Yeah dont you just hate it when you see a long line and thinking of all the different sections and possibilities, you dig a rail and dont even make the drop. What makes it worse is that you end up with the beating of a life time and a few stitched to help you remember that perfect moment that coulda been.

Need to capture the zen state of mind. Mmmmmmmm.

Post by **bro** » Mon May 30, 2005 1:36 pm

I'm always watching the wave or just reacting to it with what must be a very clear mind or an empty one as it seems like nothing is going on in it.

What really annoys me is i will be sitting out back thinking "ok don't race the section, look for the turn section or cutback" etc only when the wave comes and yep nothing going on upstairs AGAIN and I forget everything I was planning on, soooo frustrating

Post by **Gunther** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:04 pm

Its the only time in life where im thinking about absolutely nothing, mind is dead blank......and thats why i enjoy it so much

Post by **greygrom** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:17 pm

oldman wrote:When I have caught the wave and look up and see the face of the wave ahead, I am thinking of nothing. It is a zen moment that lasts a milli-second, and yet lasts forever.

I take snap shots for my mental photo album, to be used at later times when I need to remember just how good it can be.

When I am riding the wave I try not to let my conscious mind get in the way. I am trying to flow with the wave and be intuitive rather than rational.

What he said ... but sometimes I think about the poor bustards paddling out that just happen to be in the way, or the suck step my local wave has as it hits the inside shelf and starts to jack.

I rode a largish wave on Saturday on dusk, racing the lip with the setting golden sun making clear vision difficult and a section started to throw down the line and this poor bugger was scratching out and and i pulled into the sudden dark barrel and the lip landed fair on his duck diving head This is a picture that will remain forever embedded in my mind, with a small snapshot snippet of the poor blokes face as I missed him by a whisker.

I recall my conscious thought at the instant he flashed into view was "fork that I am coming through"

Every wave is different, no thought the same.

Post by **Nick Carroll** » Mon May 30, 2005 4:52 pm

wanto I wonder if when people say they're thinking of "nothing" what they really mean is: they're thinking of nothing other than riding the wave.

That's true for me anyway, I just think about the wave and my board and what it's all feeling like... good? positive? kooked out? wrong? fast? slow? balanced?

Could go on about this for hours. Cripes, squid, what a question.

Post by **clownshoes** » Mon May 30, 2005 9:18 pm

hahaah yea id have to say its nothing else but 100% focus on that wall of water ur riding.
but then again, if ur lookin out the shoulder u realise 20 people are watching u, its possible to have another wanker moment and think 'hmm now its time to shine' and go fer the moves or the style etc...i know ive done it b4 and i dont think im alone..but hey its a post for that wanker topic hahaha

Post by **macca202** » Mon May 30, 2005 11:21 pm

fong do you suffer from some repetitive syndrome?

hmm the other morning when i woke up hell early and arrived at beach when it was still dark, i was singing to myself "its four oclock in the f***ing morning" from a song be autopilot off i think

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