RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 20, 2017 7:58 pm

poor loofy has probably been flogged by this exact phenomenon

Haha

Boo, odd things happen at my local too. I suspect the underwater layout has a lot to do with channeling swell in towards the point and magnifying it. The beaches north can be flat and there'll be shoulder to head high waves pouring in. It's tide affected though.
I'd love to be able to find some underwater maps of the area.

So Boo...how much do think the density of the refractory material the wave refracts off have on the wave?

Zero.

Trev the basic bathymetry maps are available from geoscience Australia. They're in tricky formats though.
And you're right, it's the offshore reefs.

alakaboo wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 20, 2017 10:38 pm

Zero.

Trev the basic bathymetry maps are available from geoscience Australia. They're in tricky formats though.
And you're right, it's the offshore reefs.

Cheers boo.
Thanks.

Alakaboo wrote.

The energy and the swell are one and the same. They can't be at tangents to each other.


I appreciate the reply and especially this insight.

My theory was based on trying to understand where the energy of the diminishing length of swell between the orange line and the break wall goes.

Orange line also indicates energy moving perpendicular to swell line.

The swell energy goes into the surf, ie the wave breaks.
Or it bounces off.

It seems like you need a bit more background on how energy is contained within waves.
Try the first half of this document.
https://coastadapt.com.au/factsheets/wa ... ate-change

This is worth checking out, plenty of food for thought, so many possible ways of wave shaping.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trjFzfYcHCQ

see what I've done with the bathymetry background?...

can either of you 2 identify this poor species? came across it on the low tide on the beach at rose bay.
it's about 50-60cm long. the blue tinge is a tad misrepresentative, poor photo edit skills. it has a more reddish hue.

Blue Groper.

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/content/fishe ... lue-groper

if loofy was a fish, he'd be a groper, yeah?

slimy

tootr wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 09, 2017 8:54 am

Blue Groper.

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/content/fishe ... lue-groper

thanks toots. female then.

crabmeat thompson wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 09, 2017 9:01 am

if loofy was a fish, he'd be a groper, yeah?

wot, protected?

No Pants Lance wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 09, 2017 9:20 am

tootr wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 09, 2017 8:54 am

Blue Groper.

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/content/fishe ... lue-groper

thanks toots. female then.

crabmeat thompson wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 09, 2017 9:01 am

if loofy was a fish, he'd be a groper, yeah?

wot, protected?

That...and he can change sex