RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Yep, set a record today the 30 second surf. How did I achieve the milestone of surfing endurance well....Here's how it went. after a 45 min drive to Palm beach Sydney, I checked the Northern & the south end back to the north end, yep I'm in, 3', offshore & sunny, the stoke grows. Get into the wet wettie, eventually, wax, stretch & I'm off. Watch the shorebreak it can double up & give ya good wack even at this size, I go in, whitewater coming yep gonna double up, turn sideon to present a narrower profile as I put my left leg forward to turn sideon my foot goes into a depression in the sandbank, my knee bends at the same time the wave hits me & forces my leg to hyperextend & WHAM BANG, there goes the hammie, thank you Huie. Washed back onto the beach seeing stars & laughing at myself until..Uh how do I get back to the car, very slowly & very painfully is how & oh no the bloody wettie, grin 'n bear it sunshine, ouch!
Got a Maldives trip in Sept should be over this, by then. Man, after 50+ years of surfing & I still get this shite. But, did I "surf" , the intent was there, the drive, the decision, the board, the wettie, the wax, did I wipeout or wipein...?

the quickest surfs are those where it looks OK and by the time you gear up, a 30 knot ESE wind smashes everything, including the seagulls,

unclethirsty wrote:did I wipeout or wipein...?

Wiped off would be the answer.

Hope you get on the mend ok.

Or if you see a nice peak with 2-3 people on it, go to your car and get changed, then return ready with your board 10 minutes later and there's 20 people in it.

tootr wrote:the quickest surfs are those where it looks OK and by the time you gear up, a 30 knot ESE wind smashes everything, including the seagulls,

I deadset lost count of how many times this happened in tassie. It does take about halfa to get all the rubber on, but still ...

Braithy wrote:

tootr wrote:the quickest surfs are those where it looks OK and by the time you gear up, a 30 knot ESE wind smashes everything, including the seagulls,

I deadset lost count of how many times this happened in tassie. It does take about halfa to get all the rubber on, but still ...

This is why I get changed at home before the drive down

Mate of mine ran down for the dawny before work, chucked his board down a bit haphazard at the waters edge to put his leggy on. Snapped a fin out. Straight back to the car and to work.. Got his toes wet if that counts.

Was surfing in San Diego at a spot with a big clamber down a slot canyon. The bloke in front of me finished climbing down and started running towards the water, tripped on his leash, fell on his board sideways and snapped it in half.
Long hot climb of shame, in a steamer.

Paddled out through a rip in what looked like 4' waves. Got out the back and watch side on as a thick 6'+ wave sucked up and detonated onto the sand. Quite out of our depth but before we could even start to paddle a bigger one stood up on the Bombie out the back. Got destroyed by the next few and ended up huffing and puffing on the shore. Almost had to paddle back out for my mate who's board had snapped, but he made it on ok. 10 mins max I reckon

alakaboo wrote:Was surfing in San Diego at a spot with a big clamber down a slot canyon. The bloke in front of me finished climbing down and started running towards the water, tripped on his leash, fell on his board sideways and snapped it in half.
Long hot climb of shame, in a steamer.

saw a guy do that at pasta point. slipped on dry reef before he even made it to the water. brand new board too

Guys, your stories are nearly making me fell good, if it wasn't for the fact that I'm now possibly looking at an operation to fix where a piece of bone has been pulled away from my pelvis as the ultrasound scan shows. my Maldives trip in Sept is looking shakey...F*^$, S!@T.

unclethirsty wrote:Guys, your stories are nearly making me fell good, if it wasn't for the fact that I'm now possibly looking at an operation to fix where a piece of bone has been pulled away from my pelvis as the ultrasound scan shows. my Maldives trip in Sept is looking shakey...F*^$, S!@T.

really can empathise mate...about two months before i went to the maldives i had a 10 minute surf...on my first wave, i got launched, and landed flat on my board...the nasty fin chop on the back of my leg...thought my calf muscle was going to fall through it...anyway, it came good with a few weeks to spare...hope the same applies to you

I was out at Longy and second wave tore my rotator cuff. ended up having a reconstruction and was out of the water for 10 months which included a Bali trip. I reckon I was in the water for 5 mins but I am counting the wave my mate pushed me onto to belly ride in on.

mistimed rock off, broke fin, went in/home got another board, mistimed rock off, broke fin, gave up for the day.

i had a quickie this morning. a one wave surf. jumped in right before a set, got out the back and looked around where the sweep had already carted me a hundred metres down the beach, a little look around and i'm surrounded by about 6 guys all in comp singlets giving me the stinkeye.

look into the beach, sure enough ... two big tents, sand lined with about 100 people. all whistling and pointing from the beach telling me to piss off. fantastic,

i panicked and paddled into the first wave which came, completely burning the guy in the blue singlet and trimmed in a straight line completely dodging a tube, not one turn or head dip straight through the comp area. got in and was greeted a chubby little angry man with stubble yelling at me. I apologised, and he kept yelling ... so i kinda fired up and took a step towards him and told him i'm not apologising again, and i got out of the water, there's not much else i can do. he backed down.

right up the whole length of the beach it's just straight, big closeouts, not worth paddling out for... but right where they are it's doing these ones.

Braithy wrote:I apologised, and he kept yelling ... so i kinda fired up and took a step towards him and told him i'm not apologising again, and i got out of the water, there's not much else i can do. he backed down.

This is Blokey Stuff thread gold.

Weekend comps when one banks working. Go and f$ck yourselfs.

Drailed wrote:Weekend comps when one banks working. Go and f$ck yourselfs.

exactly.


the worst thing is ... now that a hundred people were invited to the bank y'day, went down this morning at first light and already there were none of my usual car parks free and 20 people either in the water or partaking in the gayest form of beach stretching – in preparation to enter the water – that these eyes have ever seen.