Quickest surf

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unclethirsty
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Quickest surf

Post by unclethirsty » Mon Jun 22, 2015 5:13 pm

Yep, set a record today the 30 second surf. How did I achieve the milestone of surfing endurance well....Here's how it went. after a 45 min drive to Palm beach Sydney, I checked the Northern & the south end back to the north end, yep I'm in, 3', offshore & sunny, the stoke grows. Get into the wet wettie, eventually, wax, stretch & I'm off. Watch the shorebreak it can double up & give ya good wack even at this size, I go in, whitewater coming yep gonna double up, turn sideon to present a narrower profile as I put my left leg forward to turn sideon my foot goes into a depression in the sandbank, my knee bends at the same time the wave hits me & forces my leg to hyperextend & WHAM BANG, there goes the hammie, thank you Huie. Washed back onto the beach seeing stars & laughing at myself until..Uh how do I get back to the car, very slowly & very painfully is how & oh no the bloody wettie, grin 'n bear it sunshine, ouch!
Got a Maldives trip in Sept should be over this, by then. Man, after 50+ years of surfing & I still get this shite. But, did I "surf" , the intent was there, the drive, the decision, the board, the wettie, the wax, did I wipeout or wipein...?

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tootr
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by tootr » Mon Jun 22, 2015 7:05 pm

the quickest surfs are those where it looks OK and by the time you gear up, a 30 knot ESE wind smashes everything, including the seagulls,

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--++sunstroke++--
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by --++sunstroke++-- » Mon Jun 22, 2015 7:29 pm

unclethirsty wrote:did I wipeout or wipein...?
Wiped off would be the answer.

Hope you get on the mend ok.
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chrisb
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by chrisb » Tue Jun 23, 2015 2:50 pm

Or if you see a nice peak with 2-3 people on it, go to your car and get changed, then return ready with your board 10 minutes later and there's 20 people in it.

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by crabmeat thompson » Tue Jun 23, 2015 9:49 pm

tootr wrote:the quickest surfs are those where it looks OK and by the time you gear up, a 30 knot ESE wind smashes everything, including the seagulls,

I deadset lost count of how many times this happened in tassie. It does take about halfa to get all the rubber on, but still ...
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Wed May 27, 2020 8:09 am
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--++sunstroke++--
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by --++sunstroke++-- » Tue Jun 23, 2015 10:05 pm

Braithy wrote:
tootr wrote:the quickest surfs are those where it looks OK and by the time you gear up, a 30 knot ESE wind smashes everything, including the seagulls,

I deadset lost count of how many times this happened in tassie. It does take about halfa to get all the rubber on, but still ...

This is why I get changed at home before the drive down :idea:
What's the difference between Elizabeth Warren & Kamala Harris?

One's pretending to be an Indian & the others pretending she isn't!

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Re: Quickest surf

Post by Drailed » Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:29 pm

Mate of mine ran down for the dawny before work, chucked his board down a bit haphazard at the waters edge to put his leggy on. Snapped a fin out. Straight back to the car and to work.. Got his toes wet if that counts.
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by alakaboo » Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:55 pm

Was surfing in San Diego at a spot with a big clamber down a slot canyon. The bloke in front of me finished climbing down and started running towards the water, tripped on his leash, fell on his board sideways and snapped it in half.
Long hot climb of shame, in a steamer.

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Re: Quickest surf

Post by Beerfan » Thu Jun 25, 2015 12:31 pm

Paddled out through a rip in what looked like 4' waves. Got out the back and watch side on as a thick 6'+ wave sucked up and detonated onto the sand. Quite out of our depth but before we could even start to paddle a bigger one stood up on the Bombie out the back. Got destroyed by the next few and ended up huffing and puffing on the shore. Almost had to paddle back out for my mate who's board had snapped, but he made it on ok. 10 mins max I reckon

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Thu Jun 25, 2015 12:55 pm

alakaboo wrote:Was surfing in San Diego at a spot with a big clamber down a slot canyon. The bloke in front of me finished climbing down and started running towards the water, tripped on his leash, fell on his board sideways and snapped it in half.
Long hot climb of shame, in a steamer.
saw a guy do that at pasta point. slipped on dry reef before he even made it to the water. brand new board too
Erase.

unclethirsty
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by unclethirsty » Thu Jun 25, 2015 1:18 pm

Guys, your stories are nearly making me fell good, if it wasn't for the fact that I'm now possibly looking at an operation to fix where a piece of bone has been pulled away from my pelvis as the ultrasound scan shows. my Maldives trip in Sept is looking shakey...F*^$, S!@T.

Almighty God
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by Almighty God » Thu Jun 25, 2015 5:39 pm

unclethirsty wrote:Guys, your stories are nearly making me fell good, if it wasn't for the fact that I'm now possibly looking at an operation to fix where a piece of bone has been pulled away from my pelvis as the ultrasound scan shows. my Maldives trip in Sept is looking shakey...F*^$, S!@T.
really can empathise mate...about two months before i went to the maldives i had a 10 minute surf...on my first wave, i got launched, and landed flat on my board...the nasty fin chop on the back of my leg...thought my calf muscle was going to fall through it...anyway, it came good with a few weeks to spare...hope the same applies to you

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Spoon
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by Spoon » Fri Jun 26, 2015 2:21 pm

I was out at Longy and second wave tore my rotator cuff. ended up having a reconstruction and was out of the water for 10 months which included a Bali trip. I reckon I was in the water for 5 mins but I am counting the wave my mate pushed me onto to belly ride in on.
Al this is gold. "She didn't realise I was fairly high and spent much of the evening trying to figure out why a purple and orange cow wanted me to climb a tree."

Slobadan Madicubich
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by Slobadan Madicubich » Fri Jun 26, 2015 5:38 pm

mistimed rock off, broke fin, went in/home got another board, mistimed rock off, broke fin, gave up for the day.

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by crabmeat thompson » Sun Jun 28, 2015 1:07 pm

i had a quickie this morning. a one wave surf. jumped in right before a set, got out the back and looked around where the sweep had already carted me a hundred metres down the beach, a little look around and i'm surrounded by about 6 guys all in comp singlets giving me the stinkeye.

look into the beach, sure enough ... two big tents, sand lined with about 100 people. all whistling and pointing from the beach telling me to piss off. fantastic, :lol:

i panicked and paddled into the first wave which came, completely burning the guy in the blue singlet and trimmed in a straight line completely dodging a tube, not one turn or head dip straight through the comp area. got in and was greeted a chubby little angry man with stubble yelling at me. I apologised, and he kept yelling ... so i kinda fired up and took a step towards him and told him i'm not apologising again, and i got out of the water, there's not much else i can do. he backed down.

right up the whole length of the beach it's just straight, big closeouts, not worth paddling out for... but right where they are it's doing these ones.

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Kunji wrote:
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Would you mind throwing in a little more homoeroticism

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BA
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by BA » Sun Jun 28, 2015 1:51 pm

Braithy wrote:I apologised, and he kept yelling ... so i kinda fired up and took a step towards him and told him i'm not apologising again, and i got out of the water, there's not much else i can do. he backed down.
This is Blokey Stuff thread gold.

Drailed
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by Drailed » Sun Jun 28, 2015 9:08 pm

Weekend comps when one banks working. Go and f$ck yourselfs.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Quickest surf

Post by crabmeat thompson » Mon Jun 29, 2015 7:55 am

Drailed wrote:Weekend comps when one banks working. Go and f$ck yourselfs.

exactly.


the worst thing is ... now that a hundred people were invited to the bank y'day, went down this morning at first light and already there were none of my usual car parks free and 20 people either in the water or partaking in the gayest form of beach stretching – in preparation to enter the water – that these eyes have ever seen.
Kunji wrote:
Wed May 27, 2020 8:09 am
Would you mind throwing in a little more homoeroticism

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