When Wamaii's big how do people get through the shorebreak

[nthnbeachesguy]

Been back in Newport since bout August 2010. Surfed a bit on and off since but then on the second weekend of the season last year I fractured my L1 vertebrae in the front valley park, combo of 3 beers for lunch and average light conditions really didn't help. Did not much at all for 6 weeks and then was able to board again very cautiously, by the end of the season I was fine again for boarding but surfing I wasn't even really trying.

Had my first surf again in like late Sept, felt really bad, going from arched back to hunched over when ur getting up and then twisting when you're up and it was horrible. At the beginning of October I bought a race SUP and spent 3 weeks paddling a lot in Pittwater, around 30kms a week and when I went for my next surf it was a totally different experience. The SUPing strengthened my back and core so much I wasn't noticing it much, still not 100% and I'm having some different issues with it now but SUPing provided me a way back to surfing again so pretty stoked about that.

[Beanpole]

Great to hear your back in action.
Can't really relate to trying to surf after 3 beers. Its kind of a basic principle of mine that I never surf after drinking even 1 beer.

[nthnbeachesguy]

Got some DC and Vans boots, I want some Burton Ambush though, they are sposed to be the bomb and super light! My foot size are 12's and fairly wide as well, the Vans are probably lighter but the DC's are pretty comfy and more supportive.