RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Looks a tough wave to surf. Lots of water movement and chops. Some blokes getting a good caning.

Yep. Some serious courage from these guys attacking the lip on solid waves. Decent beatings when they screw up.

BA wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:21 am

Looks a tough wave to surf. Lots of water movement and chops. Some blokes getting a good caning.

It's fun as shit, think of a rip bowl but 8' on a reef.

Fun as shit and 8’ rip bowl on a reef are not two sentences I would normally put together.

I’ve said it before Nick, you’re definition of fun and the general definition that everyone else on Realsurf uses are two different things.

arg don't mind me, just adjust your sets a bit.

I recall surfing this joint in 1982, it was off the hook, about 4' bigger than it was today. The rip pulls left to right across the lineup so if you don't get a wave in the first set when you get back to the takeoff, you spend every following second paddling like a crazy man toward the channel just to stay in position.

We were all getting snotted between bombs, at one point I was coming back into the lineup and found myself paddling like mad next to a very highly rated Australian pro of the time, I was kinda laughing with mad battle frenzy, and looked over and realised this guy was terrified. "Nick," he gasped, "how do you get in from here?"

Gary Green?

no.

Tom “Small hands” Carroll?

A different Gary?

Not Kong. That would shatter people.

Not the Gary I was thinking of, Thud.

Two northern beaches names might possibly fit the bill.

No. Don't try to guess, you'll never get it.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 17, 2019 6:28 pm

"Nick," he gasped, "how do you get in from here?"

Well, how do you get in from there? Sounds like a nightmare set up. If you don't paddle hard, do you end up directly in the impact zone?

Would Israel Folau make it unscathed?

He'd part the sea and walk out

Sheeet. Trying to buy sone FSC 2 fins up the Cenny coast. Can only buy from Slimes due to some weird sales territory thingy that FCS insist on. Painful

Haleiwa pumping today, Avoca Jesus smashing it.