RealSurf Surfers' Forum

I watched again yesterday afternoon......after riding a beautiful, beautiful set wave that I waited a long, long time for. There's a little wide knuckle of sand just off the main button. A wave of a certain size, of a certain period will stand up hard on this knuckle and then roar down the line. So I got three there, the last one just way, way past the hut. Down into the rock garden in the bream hole. Few urchin spines in the feet but well worth it.

So I'm watching. People jumping off, getting smashed. Turning around and doing the walk of shame when it was too much for them.
Kids shredding. Worker daddys on Firewires getting lip launched.

Unbeknownst to me the great Shane Dorian was also waiting and watching, and respectfully allowing the workers daddy's to forget their ritual humiliations and franking credits and get their wave counts up.

He came walking back along the track. Him, his son and another kid. My little doggy dropped a little nugget off the side of the path and I was just about to scoop it aside with a pandanus leaf when they came ambling past.
The kid stepped right onto the dog turd, squashing it into the soft, moist soil.

Should I have said something?
What?

"Hey Doz, make sure you take your slippahs off before going inside!"

That surely would be etiquette anyway?

That's a beautiful story, Steve. See sometimes it's better to just do nothing.

Yes, Polebean. Very true. That's true. Sometimes it is best to do nothing.

Like RESISTING FCUKING POSTING NOW AND THEN!!!!!!!!!!!

In other news! I've been fcuking ripping again.

Today the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.

Take that Polebean! If you want to see surfers doing nothing on waves, definitely do not try to get a park at Newport today.

I'm hoping to be one of those hopeless hacks out at the Ox tomorrow.

At long last, I'm back in Bali tomorrow. For the next four months, the wind is going to be offshore, the swell is going to be from SW to SSW, and it will vary from overhead to double or occasionaly triple, every day. I'll wear a vest on some days.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:47 am

That's a beautiful story, Steve.

Lol I was moved by it too.
In further news, if I’m lucky I will surf utter garbage on a mal in freezing conditions, and I’ll be happy.
Gooooo Cranky!!

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:44 am

Today the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.

Will you be riding a channel bottom single?

Pendulum stylings?

We need more early 80s log cabins NC surfing on here

I’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.

Just for the little guy, the every man.

Wyre wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:02 am

I'm hoping to be one of those hopeless hacks out at the Ox tomorrow.

Good luck mate, find that little knob of sand and sit on it. Wait for the good ones.

If I was down there you could rummage through the quiver but it’s too risky while I’m up at Bribie

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:01 pm

I’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.

Just for the little guy, the every man.

I liked reading about his jbay go out. 6-8 foot, early roll in, into warp speed 45 degree climb drop lines. Nothing worse than seeing a point break surfed like it’s a beach break.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:01 pm

I’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.

Just for the little guy, the every man.

Ha ha dream on buddy. I looooove lined up point breaks. It's like Polebean on acid.

Save the deep freeze for all those fish.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:34 pm

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:44 am

Today the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.

Will you be riding a channel bottom single?

Pendulum stylings?

We need more early 80s log cabins NC surfing on here

No! I rode the board aj just brought back, and my god there were no pendulum stylings going on, it was just a fcuken free for all hack-a-thon. Shit flying everywhere.

See this polegaloid? He’s showing off! Not only did he not need to get a park, he was chucking buckets of spray!!

I bet he doesn’t even noseride.

He brought the board back?

What in God’s name for AJ?

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 15, 2019 4:05 pm

See this polegaloid? He’s showing off! Not only did he not need to get a park, he was chucking buckets of spray!!

I bet he doesn’t even noseride.

I assumed Nicks been writing about how much he's ripping as a bit of a piss take on you actually.

Show one post where I’ve ever said I rip. I think it’s just you
getting jealous I can find parks.