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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2019 7:17 am
by Cranked
Insta, gotta share this one:
My friend Bones. Too much backstory...but...in 1978 we all lived together in an old house at 7301 Draper Street, right next door to the Andersens, David and Leslie. In an attached studio lived a fully mohawked punk named Liz. In the main house was Buzzy De Philippi, Eddie Brinkman, Jeff Cyr, me, and my brother Pete. Bones lived in a shack he built on the side of the house. Pete and I were still in high school. All of us were teenagers, except Bones, who was in his early 20s. His mother was of the Nez Perce tribe, his dad was a fighter pilot at MCAS Miramar. Their marriage had failed and Bones had been drifting on his own since he was about 15. When I met him he'd already done 3 or 4 trips to Maui, living in a hidden cave at Honolua obscured by a grove of wind sculpted kiawe trees. Bones tapped the essence of surfing more than anyone I've ever known. His surfing was the purest expression of the act I've ever seen. The way he surfed, lived, dressed, valued...it was all on his own terms. Like this portrait I shot of him posted here...that's not some curated fashionista bullshit. That's just Bones, same as he ever was. He treasures his experiences, his boards, his friends, and the secret little shrines he created to live in, be they a candlelit cave, a shack on the side of a house, an abandoned WWII bunker hidden in the chaparral or under a scrub oak in a side canyon at Blacks. The Bones pads were enchanted, every object sacred, significant, and storied. His boards were battered but they were Fryes, Brewers, Diffenderfers, Hynsons...all waiting for a day with worthy waves. I had some crazy experiences with Bones, often on psychedelics. He'd speak in hushed tones about say, his Diffenderfer pintail "it's a Diff, RK, for the Bay, no wave is worthy around here...or he'd whisper about days when the rain washed out the roads to the Bay and he'd emerge from his cave to surf it alone, 10 feet and perfect, under rainbows during breaks in the storm. "Can't put that into words, RK." He had the deepest respect for the Duke. He never wore a leash in his life. "The sport of Kings, gone to the dogs" he used to say. To me, Bones has always been a King. And a fucking wizard too.
Bones is classic, there's a pic here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzLaGgwF29Y ... _copy_link
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 9:51 am
by steve shearer
I think this upcoming E swell is going to be about the most over-hyped, under delivered swell ever.
Unless you like surfing 3ft Tea Tree or 4 ft Crescent heads.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:02 pm
by Hatchnam
Steve. How much of it do you reckon will make it down to Sydney and south NSW by Tues-Wed? I’ve seen surf sites calling 5-6 foot. Thats double overhead sets.
Over call?
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:08 pm
by channels
Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:02 pm
Steve. How much of it do you reckon will make it down to Sydney and south NSW by Tues-Wed? I’ve seen surf sites calling 5-6 foot. Thats double overhead sets.
Over call?
I reckon Narra will be all time.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
by Hatchnam
Yes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 7:05 pm
by BA
I don’t care if it’s being overcalled. A week of ENE swell in winter on the NB’s. Happy days.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:38 pm
by Thud
Cranked wrote: ↑Thu Jun 27, 2019 7:17 am
Insta, gotta share this one:
My friend Bones. Too much backstory...but...in 1978 we all lived together in an old house at 7301 Draper Street, right next door to the Andersens, David and Leslie. In an attached studio lived a fully mohawked punk named Liz. In the main house was Buzzy De Philippi, Eddie Brinkman, Jeff Cyr, me, and my brother Pete. Bones lived in a shack he built on the side of the house. Pete and I were still in high school. All of us were teenagers, except Bones, who was in his early 20s. His mother was of the Nez Perce tribe, his dad was a fighter pilot at MCAS Miramar. Their marriage had failed and Bones had been drifting on his own since he was about 15. When I met him he'd already done 3 or 4 trips to Maui, living in a hidden cave at Honolua obscured by a grove of wind sculpted kiawe trees. Bones tapped the essence of surfing more than anyone I've ever known. His surfing was the purest expression of the act I've ever seen. The way he surfed, lived, dressed, valued...it was all on his own terms. Like this portrait I shot of him posted here...that's not some curated fashionista bullshit. That's just Bones, same as he ever was. He treasures his experiences, his boards, his friends, and the secret little shrines he created to live in, be they a candlelit cave, a shack on the side of a house, an abandoned WWII bunker hidden in the chaparral or under a scrub oak in a side canyon at Blacks. The Bones pads were enchanted, every object sacred, significant, and storied. His boards were battered but they were Fryes, Brewers, Diffenderfers, Hynsons...all waiting for a day with worthy waves. I had some crazy experiences with Bones, often on psychedelics. He'd speak in hushed tones about say, his Diffenderfer pintail "it's a Diff, RK, for the Bay, no wave is worthy around here...or he'd whisper about days when the rain washed out the roads to the Bay and he'd emerge from his cave to surf it alone, 10 feet and perfect, under rainbows during breaks in the storm. "Can't put that into words, RK." He had the deepest respect for the Duke. He never wore a leash in his life. "The sport of Kings, gone to the dogs" he used to say. To me, Bones has always been a King. And a fuschia wizard too.
Bones is classic, there's a pic here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzLaGgwF29Y ... _copy_link
Sounds like an interesting cat, Cranked.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:40 pm
by Thud
3-4ft is the new 5-6ft.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pm
by Wyre
Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
Yes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2019 10:36 pm
by jimmy
Wyre wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pm
Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
Yes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!
Virgins? Heavy but great wave.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 5:09 am
by Hatchnam
Wyre wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pm
Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
Yes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!
T....... ?
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:55 am
by Nick Carroll
Oh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.
In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 7:38 am
by Cranked
And Nick has a new superman wetsuit that he is dying to show off to the Lennox crew
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 9:52 am
by BA
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:55 am
Oh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.
In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
You can take Beany and pop into Crescent on the way up.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 10:04 am
by Wyre
jimmy wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 10:36 pm
Wyre wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pm
Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pm
Yes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!
Virgins? Heavy but great wave.
Virgins is way out of my league. @hatchy, yep T....
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 10:28 am
by Beanpole
Thud wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:40 pm
3-4ft is the new 5-6ft.
Maybe they were just using real wave sizes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 11:55 am
by Nick Carroll
BA wrote: ↑Sat Jun 29, 2019 9:52 am
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:55 am
Oh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.
In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
You can take Beany and pop into Crescent on the way up.
Yeah I don't really think so, we'd get to one of the many oh god "secret spot" rivermouth/wall breaks before Crescent and Polebean would panic because it was 13 feet.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2019 12:34 pm
by Beanpole
Oh, I don't know.......yeah, probably would. I like Lennox with a bit of size though.......except for coming in. Got a great barrel at Tuncurry at Easter though.