RealSurf Surfers' Forum

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 5:03 am

Magic Seaweed's blurb on NSW.
Can you spot the error Godsave?

"ABOUT NEW SOUTH WALES
New South Wales, home to Sydney and Byron Bay is an epicentre of world surfing. South-east facing, the coastline picks up any west swells and some north-easterly during summer, including the occasional cyclone swell. In the main south-east swells only arrive during the winter. Dominant winds are cross-shore from the south apart from in summer when it switches to the north. Byron is famed for its long sandy point and the region boasts a profusion of sandy beaches and reefs. Sydney is of course famed for city surfing at its many beaches. First surfed by Duke Kahanamoku in 1914 surfing is extremely popular with an estimated 350,000 surfers spread along its 750 mile coastline. Water temperatures vary from 19 to 25°C or 66 to 77°F."

There’s plenty of west swells coming out of the stormwater drains after heavy rain.

Byron is in NSW?

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:12 am

Byron is in NSW?

AJ ... !

Maybe they been smoking too much magic seaweed?

ABOUT LENNOX HEAD
"In February 1962, two Kiwis stumbled upon Lennox Head, now generally regarded as Australia’s finest righthand point. The first photos were published in Surfing World in 1966, followed by a sealed road in 1972, and since then surfers have flocked to the break, including hard-core riders from the surrounding countryside that keep a long pintail under the house for big Lennox days. Few waves compare for speed, barrel sections, length of ride and an ability to handle the biggest NE-S swells. While a NE swell meeting a SW wind is considered primo, Lennox will also bend a S to its will, hitting a number of launch sites along the half kilometre headland. Along that rocky ride, expect full-throttle, ruler-edged walls to gusset multiple times and envelop those fast and canny enough to hold the right line. Holds proper size when the prospect of leaping off the rocks looks suicidal and the current running down the point is likely to challenge the strongest paddlers. "



More fake news from MSW

Yuke Hunt wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:41 am

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:12 am

Byron is in NSW?

AJ ... !

Isn't it in a state of Fauxhemia?

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:03 am

Yuke Hunt wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:41 am

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 7:12 am

Byron is in NSW?

AJ ... !

Isn't it in a state of Fauxhemia?

No doubt about that, whatsoever.

Clearly, they mean swell height for Lennox. Steve's graph does sometimes get incorrectly labelled as breaking wave height. A funny little fault to trick the unaware. Showing on my screen currently as swell height.

swell height for Lennox is an oxymoron.

It literally makes no sense.

Well Surf Forecast says 6' for Lennox today but its a 9s period. 400kJ though lets me know it will be about 2' faces

no.
typical, short/mid range cold front S swell.

scrappy 2-3ft. Fun, head high sets.

I have photos but am reluctant to post them.

First principles.

A swell is the energy that moves through the ocean. It has a certain set of equations to describe it.

A breaking wave is what we ride. A different set of equations describe it.

I think thats why I like using kJ, the swell/wave energy with no reference to height. Its then up to me to convert that to wave heights at a particular break if I want to. After about 5 years using it now I usually don't.

Unless I'm talking to someone who doesn't use it.

Cranked have you ever used it at any other spots than the Bukit?

No. Around Perth the offshore reef blocks most of the swell but the surf forecasts don't take this into account. I usually just convert the metres on the forecasts to feet, that is if the swell is 3m I'll assume its 3' faces.

Because of refraction around the reef gaps even a 3m swell is pretty much destroyed, especially as this phenomena increases with swell height. Consquently best swell size is under 2m as the smaller swells pass over the reef without too much interference.

The reef is the old drowned coastline, so its really consistent from about Dunsborough to Carnarvon. With a few gaps though.

I don't go down to Margaret River, north is too far. Its cheaper to go to Bali and the waves are way, way more consistent

Cranked wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:26 am

No. Around Perth the offshore reef blocks most of the swell but the surf forecasts don't take this into account. I usually just convert the metres on the forecasts to feet, that is if the swell is 3m I'll assume its 3' faces.

Because of refraction around the reef gaps even a 3m swell is pretty much destroyed, especially as this phenomena increases with swell height. Consquently best swell size is under 2m as the smaller swells pass over the reef without too much interference.

The reef is the old drowned coastline, so its really consistent from about Dunsborough to Carnarvon. With a few gaps though.

I don't go down to Margaret River, north is too far. Its cheaper to go to Bali and the waves are way, way more consistent

You don't surf Rotness?

Cranked have you developed an understanding of the error margins in the Kj estimates, and more importantly the various scenarios that lead to those errors?