RealSurf Surfers' Forum

One of the semis in the Big Wave contest at Jaws had some epic rides. Ian Walsh has probably got the Billabong Ride of the Year sewn up.
http://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/28 ... erBy=e1959

No Pants Lance wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 28, 2017 10:08 pm

Who really gives a fcuk about the 'culture' of surfing in the context of any public exposition aside from sponsors and flaky hangers on?

I do. I totally give a fcuk about killer CTs, like JBay say, I love surfing around them and enjoy both watching them and the crowds they gather.

I used to really like going to surf movies at cinemas, sometimes still do when they're on.

I like hanging out at my local club's contests, I don't surf in 'em but I judge a couple of heats and have an egg and bacon roll, talk to my friends young and middle aged.
I don't really like shitty contests, Festivals, etc but then again I do usually find something to be interested in if I get sucked into being there.

I would fcuking a hell of a lot rather be at a CT like that JBay one than at a synthetic drug dance party but to each his or her own I guess.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 29, 2017 6:35 am

The Noosa Festival.

Thats a highly successful surf festival/competition aimed at baby boomers.

It is! I agree with your earlier point shearer, I mean some surf bizs do, mostly travel and surfboards. Events and fashion less so. But there's a lot of people a bit scared of the ageing demographic I suspect.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 29, 2017 9:51 am

No Pants Lance wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 28, 2017 10:08 pm

Who really gives a fcuk about the 'culture' of surfing in the context of any public exposition aside from sponsors and flaky hangers on?

I do. I totally give a fcuk about killer CTs, like JBay say, I love surfing around them and enjoy both watching them and the crowds they gather.

I used to really like going to surf movies at cinemas, sometimes still do when they're on.

I like hanging out at my local club's contests, I don't surf in 'em but I judge a couple of heats and have an egg and bacon roll, talk to my friends young and middle aged.
I don't really like shitty contests, Festivals, etc but then again I do usually find something to be interested in if I get sucked into being there.

I would fcuking a hell of a lot rather be at a CT like that JBay one than at a synthetic drug dance party but to each his or her own I guess.

My comment wasn't meant to get a rise from you Nick, but i should have anticipated it would and worded my feelings differently...i guess the blunt dismissal infers a disinterest on my part.

Quite the contrary, in fact I 'like' pretty much all of the same things that you cite about the 'culture' of surfing. Except as you yourself admit, shitty contests, festivals and the etc - assuming they're the commercial/corporate frippery surrounding them. I don''t give a fcuk about that, or the industry propped up around it.

I don't attend connies overseas for ovious reasons - though I'd forfeit something else of value/ my time to attend a Chopes event in extrordinary conditions if I could for instance, but I do like the atmosphere at my local club ones when they're on... the camaraderie and froth of the young and the wisened history of the older, and I relish the op to see a flick occasionally.

Much the same, i detest the vast fcukery around 'dance music culture'.
I'm attracted to it in as pure a sense as can be, (drugs aside - and I'd never maintain their necessity for the experience) the music (selectively), the dedicated spirit and commitment of like minds - young and old - and the sheer and unadulterated release derived from a primal urge to simply dance.
Music is healing in much the same way that immersion in the ocean is.
Namaste, ya brittle ol' cnut.

i
I'm with ya too Skip. Self transcendence is sometimes a good thing.

That's soo close to the outfit I wore last night!

The shoes would have been the hard part.

no shoes.
and no pants.

haha....


So much inherent extreme ambivalence and contradiction built into any kind of appreciation of surf "culture".

The old myth of surfers at one with nature, alone with the perfect wave and our thoughts still pervades, despite the reality that it's mostly a shared experience. And the deliberate communalism of surf festivals, even club contests and CT conny's still seems to rub up against this myth.

Funny, as I often do, I surfed alone today. I have a club-based history and I loved it and all the surrounding aspects Nick and skip mentioned, but what I definitely don't need is validation from anywhere for my surfing experience

I don't see validation as the main motivator or otherwise.........one, there is the physical reality that most surfs or other times engaged in surfing culture, including but not limited to posting about it on surfing forums, will be shared experiences..

And 2, we seek and are nourished by those communal experiences.
Thats just an ancient evolutionary trope common to apes and even birds and definitely nothing unique to surfing.

The Mighty Sunbird wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 29, 2017 12:29 am

That was the day I saw Kelly surf Bondi

I walked into the middle of that debarcle and was surprised to see that it looked better on TV when I saw it later on. The conditions were woefull even by Bondi Standards.

black duck wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 28, 2017 10:41 pm

exiated. nice Looof. I'm pretty exiated right now, regardless that it has no meaning.

Typical acrchitect, can't interpret fcckn anything.

It was very noticeable at the Pe'ahi contest, when competitors went flying thru the air over the handlebars, they tried to get them arms down by their sides. Looked totally kamikaze not doing the instinctive thing of getting your arms forward to brace for impact. I'm surposing the bad shoulder injuries to Garrett McNamara and Mark Matthews (amoungst others) with arms being violently wrenched has resulted in a change of wipeout technique from the big wave maniacs.

nice observation Foamy.

Any others you are incubating?

foamy wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 30, 2017 10:56 am

It was very noticeable at the Pe'ahi contest, when competitors went flying thru the air over the handlebars, they tried to get them arms down by their sides. Looked totally kamikaze not doing the instinctive thing of getting your arms forward to brace for impact. I'm surposing the bad shoulder injuries to Garrett McNamara and Mark Matthews (amoungst others) with arms being violently wrenched has resulted in a change of wipeout technique from the big wave maniacs.

Wouldn't this mean you'd risk breaking your neck?

Yes, it looks more far more dangerous. They seem to try to land on their chest, which has some extra protection with the big wave inflatable vest they all wear.

Steve, I can feel something incubating but I'm not sure what it is yet.

foamy wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 30, 2017 1:24 pm

Yes, it looks more far more dangerous. They seem to try to land on their chest, which has some extra protection with the big wave inflatable vest they all wear.

Steve, I can feel something incubating but I'm not sure what it is yet.

A fart?