Just general surfing stuff

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:44 am

I watched again yesterday afternoon......after riding a beautiful, beautiful set wave that I waited a long, long time for. There's a little wide knuckle of sand just off the main button. A wave of a certain size, of a certain period will stand up hard on this knuckle and then roar down the line. So I got three there, the last one just way, way past the hut. Down into the rock garden in the bream hole. Few urchin spines in the feet but well worth it.

So I'm watching. People jumping off, getting smashed. Turning around and doing the walk of shame when it was too much for them.
Kids shredding. Worker daddys on Firewires getting lip launched.

Unbeknownst to me the great Shane Dorian was also waiting and watching, and respectfully allowing the workers daddy's to forget their ritual humiliations and franking credits and get their wave counts up.

He came walking back along the track. Him, his son and another kid. My little doggy dropped a little nugget off the side of the path and I was just about to scoop it aside with a pandanus leaf when they came ambling past.
The kid stepped right onto the dog turd, squashing it into the soft, moist soil.

Should I have said something?
What?

"Hey Doz, make sure you take your slippahs off before going inside!"

That surely would be etiquette anyway?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:47 am

That's a beautiful story, Steve. See sometimes it's better to just do nothing.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:43 am

Yes, Polebean. Very true. That's true. Sometimes it is best to do nothing.

Like RESISTING FCUKING POSTING NOW AND THEN!!!!!!!!!!!

In other news! I've been fcuking ripping again.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:44 am

Today the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:45 am

Take that Polebean! If you want to see surfers doing nothing on waves, definitely do not try to get a park at Newport today.

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Wyre
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Wyre » Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:02 am

I'm hoping to be one of those hopeless hacks out at the Ox tomorrow.
Sniff wrote:
Wed Nov 10, 2021 7:46 am
I remember some wheelchair xylophonist getting all macho about how he liked to smash absolutely heaps of Weetbix before a hard day's roofing

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:13 am

At long last, I'm back in Bali tomorrow. For the next four months, the wind is going to be offshore, the swell is going to be from SW to SSW, and it will vary from overhead to double or occasionaly triple, every day. I'll wear a vest on some days.
:-D-:
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marauding mullet
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by marauding mullet » Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:50 am

Beanpole wrote:
Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:47 am
That's a beautiful story, Steve.
Lol I was moved by it too.
In further news, if I’m lucky I will surf utter garbage on a mal in freezing conditions, and I’ll be happy.
Gooooo Cranky!!
petulance wrote: 01100100 01101001 01100111 01101001 01110100 01100001 01101100 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101011
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You're a spazz Mighty Sunbird.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:34 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:44 am
Today the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.
Will you be riding a channel bottom single?

Pendulum stylings?

We need more early 80s log cabins NC surfing on here
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:01 pm

I’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.

Just for the little guy, the every man.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:02 pm

Wyre wrote:
Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:02 am
I'm hoping to be one of those hopeless hacks out at the Ox tomorrow.
Good luck mate, find that little knob of sand and sit on it. Wait for the good ones.

If I was down there you could rummage through the quiver but it’s too risky while I’m up at Bribie
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Jul 15, 2019 3:04 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:01 pm
I’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.

Just for the little guy, the every man.
I liked reading about his jbay go out. 6-8 foot, early roll in, into warp speed 45 degree climb drop lines. Nothing worse than seeing a point break surfed like it’s a beach break.
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Jul 15, 2019 3:55 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:01 pm
I’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.

Just for the little guy, the every man.
Ha ha dream on buddy. I looooove lined up point breaks. It's like Polebean on acid.

Save the deep freeze for all those fish.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Jul 15, 2019 4:00 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:34 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:44 am
Today the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.
Will you be riding a channel bottom single?

Pendulum stylings?

We need more early 80s log cabins NC surfing on here
No! I rode the board aj just brought back, and my god there were no pendulum stylings going on, it was just a fcuken free for all hack-a-thon. Shit flying everywhere.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Jul 15, 2019 4:05 pm

See this polegaloid? He’s showing off! Not only did he not need to get a park, he was chucking buckets of spray!!

I bet he doesn’t even noseride.
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Mon Jul 15, 2019 4:43 pm

He brought the board back?

What in God’s name for AJ?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Jul 15, 2019 4:52 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Mon Jul 15, 2019 4:05 pm
See this polegaloid? He’s showing off! Not only did he not need to get a park, he was chucking buckets of spray!!

I bet he doesn’t even noseride.
I assumed Nicks been writing about how much he's ripping as a bit of a piss take on you actually. :-o
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Jul 15, 2019 5:02 pm

Show one post where I’ve ever said I rip. I think it’s just you
getting jealous I can find parks.
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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