Just general surfing stuff

[steve shearer]

@Steve - this might be of interest: https://www.rogerebert.com/rogers-journ ... ase-closed

love Walter Murch

[Nick Carroll]

Hey nick, what time are social d on?

7pm according to the schedule

What I hear is, there will be a supporting band including Dirk Ziff on guitar. I'm serious.

[Nick Carroll]

is there a crowd there?

there's zero sense of crowd involvement on the broadcast.

it's so weird.

Not really. Seemed like the numbers increased by maybe 800, but people came and went. Ticket sales are far from the Founders Cup thing.

This place is so huge though, even a bigger crowd would disperse throughout the area and the bit down near the buildings is VIP/athlete guest only, so it's a bit limited. Plus a lot of VIPs clearly don't have a clue about the contest, they're only here for the Show...or because they work for somebody.

I think it's the same at a lot of sports events, the real fans are in the bleachers, but there's no bleachers here, so if there are real fans, they're disparate.

[Nick Carroll]

I spent 20 years unpublishable while the gatekeepers like Carroll and Doherty preserved the status quo.

Oh fcuk off, don't play the victim. I and a number of other editors constantly prevailed on you to contribute, but no, there was almost always some problem with doing so, the publication had always done something to offend your sensibilities. This may not be how you choose to look at it but it's how it looked to me and a fair few others. There's plenty of people who wanted to write about surfing and its many etcs, if you expected busy editors to spend years nurturing you through various moral crises, well that was never gonna happen. It's cool you have found a home at Beachgrit, just embrace that and run with it, but for christ's sake, do not try to mentor anyone in writing or journalism for at least another 10 years.

[ajohnsen]

Fcuk the surfing contest, I'm staying here for Carroll v Shearer heat.

[steve shearer]

thats just a lame personal attack that's not true Nick.

The very last person I'd expect to shepherd me through a "moral crisis" would be a surf mag editor.

I made contributions, they were rejected. I wrote letters and emails, they went unanswered.

What I had to say , was not required, nor publishable at the time.

Now it is.

This is very far from just my personal opinion.

[steve shearer]

btw, I feel very far from victimised about it.
Inspired is more like it.

[alakaboo]

The wave pool is just a natural evolutionary step in surfing, if you accept that we are simply monkeys using a stick to get ants out of their nests.

It's kinda like 3D movies. There have been three or four iterations of it. Each time it fades away and, in doing so, proves its novelty. The last time, it was hailed as the future, yet it has all but faded again. Walter Murch wrote of it that this is (was) the first time in human history that our eyes are being asked to focus on two separate points simultaneously and that our brains have yet to develop the necessary CPU to do this comfortably. (I can't watch them; they leave me terribly sick.)

Like 3D technology, this is the first time in human history that we're being asked to watch a surf competition in manufactured waves. The technology and engineering are both impressive, but we are uncomfortable with the idea of humans controlling nature. But this isn't going to end in Hiroshima; it's largely harmless and time will determine its place in surfing culture.

Meantime, I'll continue to fight for time in the water in which I'll have to compete with hundreds of others doing the same, and we'll be at the mercy of the elements. Or I could just put up the trellis for my wife's climbing rose.

I really liked this piece of writing, AJ.
I don't really agree with any of it, except for part of the last paragraph, but I liked it a lot.

[BA]

I spent 20 years unpublishable while the gatekeepers like Carroll and Doherty preserved the status quo.

Oh fcuk off, don't play the victim. I and a number of other editors constantly prevailed on you to contribute, but no, there was almost always some problem with doing so, the publication had always done something to offend your sensibilities. This may not be how you choose to look at it but it's how it looked to me and a fair few others. There's plenty of people who wanted to write about surfing and its many etcs, if you expected busy editors to spend years nurturing you through various moral crises, well that was never gonna happen. It's cool you have found a home at Beachgrit, just embrace that and run with it, but for christ's sake, do not try to mentor anyone in writing or journalism for at least another 10 years.

[alakaboo]

Steve why do you care about pro surfing, enough to write about it?
I understand Nick's involvement and interest, it's sort of woven into the fabric of his life, but what got you in?

The question is unrelated to the current contest(s).

[steve shearer]

Tracks, Australian Surfing Life, White Horses, Surfing World, Surfline, Kurungabaa, The Surfers Journal, Surfer magazine, BeachGrit,Swellnet, CoastalWatch, The FreeRide Voice.

Without blowing too much smoke up my own arse I think it would be hard to find a surf writer who has been more widely published in the last 5 years.

I feel based on that publication record I could offer useful advice to someone seeking to get published.



Boo, couple of reasons. Some personal, some historical.
But primarily for it's impacts and effects on rec surfers as well as the wider contexts.

[The Mighty Sunbird]

Hey nick, what time are social d on?

7pm according to the schedule

What I hear is, there will be a supporting band including Dirk Ziff on guitar. I'm serious.

That’s like right now, yeah?
Fcuckers aren’t streaming it by the looks

[ajohnsen]

The wave pool is just a natural evolutionary step in surfing, if you accept that we are simply monkeys using a stick to get ants out of their nests.

It's kinda like 3D movies. There have been three or four iterations of it. Each time it fades away and, in doing so, proves its novelty. The last time, it was hailed as the future, yet it has all but faded again. Walter Murch wrote of it that this is (was) the first time in human history that our eyes are being asked to focus on two separate points simultaneously and that our brains have yet to develop the necessary CPU to do this comfortably. (I can't watch them; they leave me terribly sick.)

Like 3D technology, this is the first time in human history that we're being asked to watch a surf competition in manufactured waves. The technology and engineering are both impressive, but we are uncomfortable with the idea of humans controlling nature. But this isn't going to end in Hiroshima; it's largely harmless and time will determine its place in surfing culture.

Meantime, I'll continue to fight for time in the water in which I'll have to compete with hundreds of others doing the same, and we'll be at the mercy of the elements. Or I could just put up the trellis for my wife's climbing rose.

I really liked this piece of writing, AJ.
I don't really agree with any of it, except for part of the last paragraph, but I liked it a lot.

The bit about the trellis? You can't dispute that. In fact, it is done.

[Drailed]

The old boys club think they own surfing, well let me tell you something - you oqn no more then me.

Fccck the old guard.

[Thud]

Mum and Dad are fighting, I don't like it.

[The Mighty Sunbird]

Give Carroll a break he’s stuck in lemoore and not seeing social d. No wonder he’s got the shits

[Nick Carroll]

thats just a lame personal attack that's not true Nick.

The very last person I'd expect to shepherd me through a "moral crisis" would be a surf mag editor.

I made contributions, they were rejected. I wrote letters and emails, they went unanswered.

What I had to say , was not required, nor publishable at the time.

Now it is.

This is very far from just my personal opinion.

Well I guess there are several personal opinions at work here. I really felt it. I wanted you to write for the mags I was editing and I felt super irritated at the feeling that you were dancing the seven veils around my efforts to get you involved. I had heaps of experience with all kinds of contributors and they often got me into trouble one way or another, but I never minded that, I never liked being played hard-to-get though, it felt tedious and I can write too, so I don't have illusions about it.

Anyway like I said it's cool you feel good about where you are, keep rolling with that, and if I find myself in a position to offer you some work again, I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

[Nick Carroll]

Hey nick, what time are social d on?

7pm according to the schedule

What I hear is, there will be a supporting band including Dirk Ziff on guitar. I'm serious.

That’s like right now, yeah?
Fcuckers aren’t streaming it by the looks

No you IDIOT, it's on Sat night US time, ie tomorrow.