Just general surfing stuff

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Wed Mar 21, 2018 7:46 am

John John at 12. Remember watching this on Fuel TV at the time.

Freaks are born not created

https://youtu.be/WMLZBUtcUP4

His mum has a smoking bod.
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marauding mullet
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by marauding mullet » Fri Mar 23, 2018 12:45 pm

Had a nice little sesh on my mal this morning, it's a 2 + 1 fin set-up. It's starting to really gel with me and although I'm still trying to master the mal as mals relatively new to me, I'm wondering if it's the fin set-up that gels with me.
I've never really been able to admit it to myself, but I don't think I ever comfortably made the transition from single fin to thruster back in the 80's.
I'm going to try a short board or two with the 2+ 1 and see how it goes. Wish I had though of it a long, long time ago.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beerfan » Fri Mar 23, 2018 3:32 pm

2+1 is a good all round setup IMHO. And so is twin fin plus trailer too.
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Legion
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Fri Mar 23, 2018 11:12 pm

The Cymatic looks pretty fun.

https://youtu.be/N103gy21pHk

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:38 am

Above 6'10 is single or 2+1 city.

Cymactic looks like a cake of soap. I remember that snub nose thing Kelly had with the massive single concave, he ripped on that thing. Looks similar.
Last edited by Thud on Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:42 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by marauding mullet » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:40 am

Thud wrote:
Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:38 am
Above 6'10 is single or 2+1 city.
I knew it! Smallest board I have is 6’ 7”
I’m going shopping
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:41 am

Check out the Jye Byrnes Crossbreed
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:50 pm

Went for a surf today. Was pretty average about 1pm.

Guy parks next to me in a new Land Rover Discovery, pulls out a new high performance longboard from FireWire (Taylor Jensen TT) puts on a brand new e bomb wetsuit under his brand new hoddie-dressing gown thingy. Had a tide watch.

He couldn't stand up. Didn't catch a wave. Was nervously looking side ways at people paddling into 2ft weak muck. I almost said to him "you know that board has a lot of rocker and is probably much harder to ride than a flat based fish". But I didn't, it would have been patronising, humiliating and his kids probably think Dads "a surfer he's cool". So I left it. And even typing this feel bad for him.
Rashness is the faithful, but unhappy parent of misfortune. R. Buckminster Fuller

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:59 pm

Why would you feel bad for him?
He's clearly got more money than he knows what to do with.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by swvic » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:04 pm

Either seriously deluded and thinking surfing would be easy or he has serious mental health issues. Either way he has too much money

Many years ago I went into the surfshop in Margaret River with a mate who was picking up a custom. Bloke in the shop was in the process of selling a family of 4 new boards, tail pads, wetties, covers, legropes, roof racks and straps. He chuckled in a couple of blocks of free wax
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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:15 pm

You see guys there are some things money can't fix. Pride, ego and man's constant assessment of where he sits in any hierarchy.
Rashness is the faithful, but unhappy parent of misfortune. R. Buckminster Fuller

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:24 pm

I'm sure he has that fully covered in his professional and personal life.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Legion » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:27 pm

And you didn't even say hello to loofy?

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Slobadan Madicubich » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:28 pm

Hope he's got a " Life Coach ".

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Thud
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Thud » Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:34 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:24 pm
I'm sure he has that fully covered in his professional and personal life.
Who knows. May have been his wife's money. I don't equate wealth with satisfaction. He just looked completely lost. Ah you're probably right.

If I see him again I'm going to ask him for a ride on that board, he can ride my DX 3
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Trev » Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:29 pm

Legion wrote:
Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:27 pm
And you didn't even say hello to loofy?
Beat me to it. :-)(
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by foamy » Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:00 am

Most have probably already seen it, but the article by Fiona Capp in Fairfax about the movie 'Breath' is insightful and very well-written.

https://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/mo ... 0z62g.html

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:20 am

foamy wrote:
Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:00 am
Most have probably already seen it, but the article by Fiona Capp in Fairfax about the movie 'Breath' is insightful and very well-written.

https://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/mo ... 0z62g.html
Thanks foamy.

Here's three insightful (imho) excerpts
...Baker is adamant the bravest and most heroic moment in the film would be when Pikelet stands his ground and resists the pressure from Sando and Loonie to surf the unconquered big-wave break called Nautilus. "When I look back at that time in my life," Baker says, "I certainly wish that I had more confidence in who I was to say, 'I'm not going to do that', and not feel like I'd failed. I think we have evolved enough to be able to accept that as a strength. They're the moments that define you and make you who you are and separate you from the mob."

...In its defiant mood of rebellion, rejection of responsibility and worship of youth, surf culture has traditionally celebrated the eternal adolescent in all of us: that secret part of the self that resists the pressure to be civilised and domesticated and finds atavistic solace in the sea's savage mystery. While we don't need to relinquish it in order to grow up, there's no escaping the fact that clinging to this inner adolescent has stunted surf culture. Localism, sexism, surf rage and racism have been some of its uglier manifestations.

..."People forsook the group in the late '60s and thus began the 'festival of me'. Surfers have always been the most gigantic narcissists, so it was a perfect alignment. I'm not talking about hobby surfers here, but lifelong hardcore surfers who sublimate every other part of their lives to the tides and the swell and the weather,"I he says. In their conception of themselves as exceptional and not answerable to anyone, Sando and Eva epitomise this strand of arrested development in surf culture.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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