When wud ya ditch....

Post by **bumbaclot** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 12:35 pm

ave we had dis topic before? I think we may....apologies in advance.

so how big would the face have to be, jackin up in frong of you, before you thought 'bugger dis' and bailed fer da bottom?

wot constanly bugs the crapola outta me, is sumtimes ya duckdive, hold on and hardly get touched.....other times, even in a smaller swell, ya hold on and get thrashed around like a ragdoll, bash ya head of ya stick and basically come off worse fer wear!

Post by **baldric** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 12:43 pm

not so much face size but more like where I am and what's the conditions...I've bailed on 4ft waves where I was right in the impact zone and on a rock shelf and I've held on through 8ft shories 'cause to let go could have taken out a few others that were also paddlin'...
Also depends what board I'm ridin'....

having said that...I doubt I could see meself tryin' ta take on anything over 10ft in any conditions...

daltz · Post by **daltz** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 1:43 pm

after much research, i reckon ive found the spot you can duck dive and come up the other side like a rocket.
lip pitches, hits the water and bounces back up. if you get to duck dive under the place of impact before it starts to push forward your sweet. though it's 50/50 chance its gonna rip the board out of your hands and pin you to the bottom. short of that, im standin on the board and goin for the bottom on anythin over about 5ft. 5ft thats pitching and gonna land on my head that is.

Post by **WANDERER** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 2:00 pm

I don't use legropes so due to that fact i rarely if ever ditch... i 'd rather cop it like a biatch and have the chance of comin up with a board than give up chuck my board and have to swim to the beach...

your board is your responsibility and leggies are a last resort i believe...

if you are gonna chuck your board should you really be out there?

sometimes if you make it half way thru a duckdive or turtledive before your boards ripped from you it'll popup near by or not get washed too far away... sometimes...

before you paddle out ask youself; will i be cool if my leggie snaps?

daltz · Post by **daltz** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 2:08 pm

turtle dive? is that the old roll over the mal boys do?

do you find your not pushin your limits without a leggy wands. i mean if your deep in a pit and its gettin a bit touch and go, do you pull through the back early? crank the roundhouse into the foam full speed. serious question.or are you happy to do more swims.
i tend to use the leggy less in summer and it becomes a fitness thing. paddle swim etc

Post by **bumbaclot** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 2:10 pm

Wands....blah blah blah......WOT SIZE IS YOU NOT TAKIN IT ON DA HEAD?

Post by **baldric** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 2:16 pm

WANDERER wrote:sometimes if you make it half way thru a duckdive or turtledive before your boards ripped from you it'll popup near by or not get washed too far away...

my experience is only if there's another 2 or 3 waves in the set ready to drill ya as well....if there's no more waves in the set then ya can guarantee that it's as far away from ya as possible.....I hate Murphy's law!!!

Post by **Rug** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 2:27 pm

WANDERER wrote: if you are gonna chuck your board should you really be out there?

Sunny Garcia said in an interview " when it's over 4ft I bail cause that's what me leggies for"

Now I know he's probably talking "Hawiian" 4ft but are you gunna ask him if he should be out there? I think not.

Post by **WANDERER** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 2:53 pm

Rug wrote:
WANDERER wrote: if you are gonna chuck your board should you really be out there?

Sunny Garcia said in an interview " when it's over 4ft I bail cause that's what me leggies for"

Now I know he's probably talking "Hawiian" 4ft but are you gunna ask him if he should be out there? I think not.

leggies break!! r u prepared to

a) endanger someone elses health/life with a stray board

b) endange your own life

thats the dumbest quote I've ever heard... obviously sunny is a great surfer... that don't make him a smart man. Many hawaiin watermen would laugh at such a stupid comment.

Bumba: I don't usually judge on the size, more on the way the wave is breakin and where in relation to me its breakin... ie Ive bailed a pitching 3 foot wave that is gonna hit me square in the back, I've also duck dived and turtledived some pretty large waves... I'm not claimin to be a kick arse surfer... I rarely surf waves over 4-6 foot... my boards and the style of surfing that i like are better suited to below shoulder height but it also depends on the shape of the wave... i can say i've surfed large waves but i wouldn't say that i have surfed big & heavy waves.

Post by **WANDERER** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 3:05 pm

daltz wrote:turtle dive? is that the old roll over the mal boys do?

do you find your not pushin your limits without a leggy wands. i mean if your deep in a pit and its gettin a bit touch and go, do you pull through the back early? crank the roundhouse into the foam full speed. serious question.or are you happy to do more swims.
i tend to use the leggy less in summer and it becomes a fitness thing. paddle swim etc

thats the thing, if its a big foamy wave headin towards me i turtledive, i duckdive if i think i can get beyond the foam/turbulence.

I have found that not using a leggy has improved my surfing... If i fall off i have to swim for my board, if i dont i dont. everytime i surf i see people bail off their boards it really is pathetic. You still push your limits but just in a more restrained way... i find people who use leggies try to go for moves well beyond their abilities becoz they know they've got the leggie on and if they fall off they've got nuthin to loose, take the leggy away and you've got extra incentive to make everyone of your moves... TRY IT!

Post by **prepare** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 3:38 pm

WANDERER wrote: leggies break!! r u prepared to

a) endanger someone elses health/life with a stray board

b) endange your own life

but you dont wear a leggie so really your endangering others alot more then someone who wears one. Everyone falls no matter how good you are, and when i see someone fall on a wave infront of me i like to know that his board isnt going to impale me.

I personally think no leggie/leash is good in certain conditions, but how do you deal with a run away board if your surfing a bombie or reef? even in small conditions retreving a board is a hassle and i dont enjoy doing it in bigger surf.

Post by **bumbaclot** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 3:49 pm

yes dats fine Prepare.....but how big before your thinking of ditchin? and I do mean when it about to axe you, not crumblin toward you avin already broken...

personally I go out a fiar bit without a leash also.....rarley when it's too crowded....and I won't paddle out if I think I'd be in trouble without me board..

snapped a leash last year and almost took out Layne at Freshy.......but thats a whole new thread am I'm sure we've done it before hey?!?!

Post by **WANDERER** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 3:58 pm

prepare wrote:
WANDERER wrote: leggies break!! r u prepared to

a) endanger someone elses health/life with a stray board

b) endange your own life

but you dont wear a leggie so really your endangering others alot more then someone who wears one. Everyone falls no matter how good you are, and when i see someone fall on a wave infront of me i like to know that his board isnt going to impale me.

I personally think no leggie/leash is good in certain conditions, but how do you deal with a run away board if your surfing a bombie or reef? even in small conditions retreving a board is a hassle and i dont enjoy doing it in bigger surf.

Having a leggie doesn't stop your board from injuring others. Doing your utmost to control your board usually means its a lot less of a risk to others.

If I'm surfing a rocky point break where the waves are fairly hefty i will wear a leggie or if I'm a long long way out. but if its just like noosa or blue bay or sumthing i won't. I only loose my board maybe once a session so its not a big issue. I don't wear a leggie at big longy bombie.

I will wear a leggy if its shoulder to shoulder crowds though, too much risk of litigation from yuppies in this day and age.

on the whole i do my very best to avoid getting into situations where my board will/could injure someone. I don't think the same goes for people who wear leggies all the time. I reckon there is a lot of people who have too much faith in their leggies. How many of you check your leggie for nicks and splits before a surf?

Post by **bumbaclot** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 4:02 pm

+ when ya flick ya board at the arse/head/back of a drop in....I quite like it comin back to me quickly...with or without skin/eye balls whateva attached......dats why ya wear a leash kidz

Post by **WANDERER** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 4:05 pm

bumbaclot wrote:+ when ya flick ya board at the arse/head/back of a drop in....I quite like it comin back to me quickly...with or without skin/eye balls whateva attached......dats why ya wear a leash kidz

a fatal injury caused by this activity qualifies as manslaughter...

are you a good enuff aim to discriminate between "arse/head/back"... impressive...

Post by BA » Mon Aug 16, 2004 4:10 pm

I'll only ditch when I've caught a wave into the shorey and then have a heap of shorey waves caning me on the head. When I'm further out, I'll pretty much duckdive anyhting. I ride pretty light boards that I can get down real deep. Never really ride without me leggie (all you 70's guys shake ya head in disgust). Maybe when it's 2 foot in Summer.

Post by **bumbaclot** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 4:15 pm

I can see I'm just gonna ave to include....

'I'm only jokin'
under all me posts....besides he'll neva see it comin and no-one will know it me.....just don't drop in Wands and you'll be right!

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