why do u surf?

[bumfluff]

Surfing is a lifestyle choice. If you're not actually surfing, you're watching the forecast/chart for when the swell will be on again and picking the best day to go. Picking which boards you'll take, and which ummmm wax to use I love it because the conditions are constantly changing. No two waves are identical.

Surfing also takes my mind off "stuff".

I surf for all of the above and because I love the Ocean.

[Animal_Chin]

...to get away from my wife.

[oldman]

Let me get this clear, olds.

You play golf......................

Yep, pretty good at it too TrevG, but not as good as Slater. I think I took it up about 40 years before him, but he now has about 60 free hours a week I don't.

At a fundamental level, there is a darker secret here.

Part of me knows that I surf because something like 85% of the population can't do it, couldn't do it in a pink fit, and would panic and die in situations that I can manage reasonably comfortably.

It's an edge. Can't escape that reality. It defines one of my edges, not my centre.

But the edges are the important parts, not the middle.

I need an edge.

Strange.

[Beanpole]

On the other hand I often ask myself this question after a crappy close out session at Bondi with a thousand backpackers.

[scod]

I surf because I am crap at it.

It is a source of enjoyment and frustration in my life.

Kinda like my marriage but without the enjoyment part.

[bumfluff]

Scod are you on the Methadone program?

[scod]

Scod are you on the Methadone program?

not yet

[damo666]

Ahh sure - I'm sure that Taj, Parko or any of the other pro's dont feel nearly the same connection to surfing that you do......and only do it cause they get paid please.

sorry, being obtuse, u miss my point

anything u see taj or parko quoted on saying in a bill board ad

i'm pretty sure would been dream up by a marketing guru and run tho several focus groups

before...they were quoted as saying it

but...enjoying reading everyones replies...so back on topic

p.s and i don't restrict this topic heading too just standups....i'm interested in everyones connection with the ocean

Yeah, sorry -- must have had sand in my crack that day!

[TMC]

Why Andy Surfed

[marcus]

not sure why
mum would take me for swims in the kids baths at coogee, my first swim with mum in the surf i remember being held up and lifting and dropping with the waves as the swell rose and fell, all the other people in the water rising and falling at the same time.
we lived on the hill overlooking wedding cake island.
mum would take me to see the big storm rolling waves and to play in the park, and we could see them from our window.

one day i was about 4 years old there were surfers on the tv, i said to mum and dad i want to be a surfer.
dad mumbled something like surfers are druggos.

these days i think its because the water feels like home.

as a kid i think it was more pure than ever, swimming, riding a clubbie foamy in my first tube, on a clarke rubber finned booger and my surfboard hand me down from a cousin, those experiences were all from begging mum to take us to the beach.
didn't care of any of the bullshit people add to surfing as people get older.

the kid accross the road would show off and count how many "saltwaters" or "quicksilvers" shorts he had, mum couldn't afford them. i didn't understand why you needed them.

i am really enjoying being a part of my daughters introduction to water, its an awesome feeling