Lucky Al wrote:hold on hold on, that's too easy. give us your top five. and why!
OK fcuken hell
Hang on I'm gonna get a glass of wine for this one.
That's better.
1. Andy Irons. To me AI exemplified the best aspects of every great surfer I've ever seen. Fantastically athletic, extroverted, stylish, creative, yet with a technique based in the very heart of the sports finest traditions, AI was able to ride any wave presented to him and stamp it with his own particular magic. He also had the priceless gift of being able to share - both his own talent, which he was never afraid to put on show, and whatever surf he happened to be having. Of all the super great surfers I've spent time in the water with, he was the easiest to get along with and the most willing to give a wave to a fellow surfer.
2. Martin Potter. Pottz was truly a freak. What an overused word that is, along with "legend" it's brought up so often as to pretty much neuter its meaning, but Pottz was the real deal. Just so fcuken exciting to watch, so fast, dramatic, nothing seemed beyond him. He made surfing his home and there's heaps of surfers today who owe him a huge debt in style and approach.
3. Tom Curren. The most perfect surfing style ever produced In a single human. Tom's introversion, his fearful unwillingness to share, is the only thing between him and the top spot in my list, that and his inability to dominate in Hawaiian surf which for a surfer of his era was an essential requirement of true greatness. But he is a very humble guy who has struggled against numerous demons over the years and his absolutely superb surfing style has influenced every top surfer since, which no other surfer can truly claim.
4. Kelly Slater. How can you not be in awe of his persona and record in the sport. Well you know, I'm not. What I'm in awe of is how fcuken good he is at surfing, his constant engagement with it on all sorts of levels, and how he keeps on finding ways to push himself, whether it be through surfboard design, taking on new opponents, or keeping it clean and fit in a world full of bullshit artists. Kelly's set himself an enormously high bar and it will be fascinating to see how he copes with the next few years and what legacy he truly leaves.
5. Lil Tommy.