Ask Carroll

[Beanpole]

Whats the point?
Because bad surf writing is about as pretentious as it gets.

[Nick Carroll]

And there's plenty of it.

I think in surf writing, "worst" is a genre thing and the worst surf books are usually the ones who try to elevate surfing to some ghastly New Age sub-yoga pseudo-religious heights, full of Spirit Lessons and so forth. Their authors are so keen on finding some sort of spiritually clean platform on which to base their hippe dippie bullshit that they ignore pretty much everything about surfing, its origins, its complex grafting on to 20th century western culture, the way surfers behave in the lineup, the fear every surfer experiences while trying to learn how to do it, the obsessive escapism it seems to engender, the prices people pay to be committed surfers and the rewards they get and how those two things add up or don't add up. Ie the actual human warp and weft of it.

Sometimes pretty bad are the books by skilled writers who have only recently discovered the sport and think they have happened upon something nobody else has ever experienced, and thus must write about their surf-inspired revelations, which though well-phrased are also usually pretty white bread and tedious, often verging toward the above Spirit Lessons.

I have a soft spot for surf cheese literature, like Gidget and all those wild-bikini surf gang pulp novels of the 1960s and so forth, though it would probably be viewed as appalling shit by many I think it has a sorta harmless happy comic feel, and at least it isn't trying to weave in some bs mysticism.

Like I said it's very hard to write well, especially about something you're semi not willing to understand properly vis a vis its effects on you, I bet there will be some really great books on surfing written in coming years though - amid a lot more shit of the above varieties.

[Yuke Hunt]

And there's plenty of it.

I think in surf writing, "worst" is a genre thing and the worst surf books are usually the ones who try to elevate surfing to some ghastly New Age sub-yoga pseudo-religious heights, full of Spirit Lessons and so forth. Their authors are so keen on finding some sort of spiritually clean platform on which to base their hippe dippie bullshit that they ignore pretty much everything about surfing, its origins, its complex grafting on to 20th century western culture, the way surfers behave in the lineup, the fear every surfer experiences while trying to learn how to do it, the obsessive escapism it seems to engender, the prices people pay to be committed surfers and the rewards they get and how those two things add up or don't add up. Ie the actual human warp and weft of it.

Sometimes pretty bad are the books by skilled writers who have only recently discovered the sport and think they have happened upon something nobody else has ever experienced, and thus must write about their surf-inspired revelations, which though well-phrased are also usually pretty white bread and tedious, often verging toward the above Spirit Lessons.

I have a soft spot for surf cheese literature, like Gidget and all those wild-bikini surf gang pulp novels of the 1960s and so forth, though it would probably be viewed as appalling shit by many I think it has a sorta harmless happy comic feel, and at least it isn't trying to weave in some bs mysticism.

Like I said it's very hard to write well, especially about something you're semi not willing to understand properly vis a vis its effects on you, I bet there will be some really great books on surfing written in coming years though - amid a lot more shit of the above varieties.

Oh fcuk no ... I can see it now ... Roy stomping up to the keyboard all fired up ... steam coming out his ears ... blaspheming and shaking with rage ... batten down the hatches ... that unsettled storm front cyclone woody's on the way.

[Trev]

And there's plenty of it.

I think in surf writing, "worst" is a genre thing and the worst surf books are usually the ones who try to elevate surfing to some ghastly New Age sub-yoga pseudo-religious heights, full of Spirit Lessons and so forth. Their authors are so keen on finding some sort of spiritually clean platform on which to base their hippe dippie bullshit that they ignore pretty much everything about surfing, its origins, its complex grafting on to 20th century western culture, the way surfers behave in the lineup, the fear every surfer experiences while trying to learn how to do it, the obsessive escapism it seems to engender, the prices people pay to be committed surfers and the rewards they get and how those two things add up or don't add up. Ie the actual human warp and weft of it.

Sometimes pretty bad are the books by skilled writers who have only recently discovered the sport and think they have happened upon something nobody else has ever experienced, and thus must write about their surf-inspired revelations, which though well-phrased are also usually pretty white bread and tedious, often verging toward the above Spirit Lessons.

I have a soft spot for surf cheese literature, like Gidget and all those wild-bikini surf gang pulp novels of the 1960s and so forth, though it would probably be viewed as appalling shit by many I think it has a sorta harmless happy comic feel, and at least it isn't trying to weave in some bs mysticism.

Like I said it's very hard to write well, especially about something you're semi not willing to understand properly vis a vis its effects on you, I bet there will be some really great books on surfing written in coming years though - amid a lot more shit of the above varieties.

Oh fcuk no ... I can see it now ... Roy stomping up to the keyboard all fired up ... steam coming out his ears ... blaspheming and shaking with rage ... batten down the hatches ... that unsettled storm front cyclone woody's on the way.

Noah > Roy.

[rmb]

Now Nick removing yourself from the equation, Who are the BEST surf writers?

[Nick Carroll]

Fcuk eh, that's a question with a few subsets.

In the past few years there's been some good journalism, probably the best in the sport's history, notably Brad Melekian's two pieces in Outside.com about the obfuscations around AI's death, and Jarratt's book on the surf industry and its co-option by the share market, Salts and Suits.

There's been one really good novel (Breath) and one slightly weird one (The Life). There's been some good writing from surf contests and a huge amount of shit reporting from same. There's been four or five outstanding pieces of writing and a fair bit of lesser but still good stuff published in Gra's mag White Horses, but the bulk of surf magazine writing lately seems to have turned soggy, almost subjectless, if you get my drift.

I think a lot of the better surf writers struggle to find a decent paying home without spending a lot of time doing hard non-authory bill-paying type work, or leave the field to get a real job and thus aren't writing as much or at all.

There's also quite a few soldiers at various mags working their arses off to keep the mags going and the words etc flowing, mostly their efforts aren't appreciated because they're sorta invisible.

I spose I'd rather not sling too many names around because I have a fair bit of empathy and compassion for my fellow writers, they all try hard to get something of feeling and worth down in print and doing that over and over again is not easy, specially when you're putting your actual name to it.

[Beanpole]

Kem Nunn?
I really liked his novels but they always deviate into a B Grade schlock finale. Don't know whether its him or his publishers.
Kind of thought Breath borrowed a bit from that style of writing but then elevated it into something meaningful and complete in its own way. Definitely my favorite Tim Winton Novel.

When my son was in year 7 his English teaxcher suggested him reading it due to its subject matter at a Parent Teacher Night
At that stage in regards to the little non surfing mag reading he was doing he was more up to Lockie Leonard than auto asphixiation as far as I was concerned. Ah, English Teachers.

[mrleed]

Nick

I Just found this thread as I don't frequent this forum often. Don't know if you are still answering questions, but I will ask and leave it in your hands.

Almost a year ago, I contacted you after you and Simon gave a talk at Newport surf club. You suggested that you could put me in touch with a coach to further my surfing if I wrote to you. I am sure you were too busy to respond to my email. I am asking again if you could put me in touch with a surf coach to take me beyond simply racing down the line + a weak ass cutback. Unlike most, I have the time to devote toawards getting better as its pointless to work whilst my ex keeps me in a perpetual state of divorce conflict (with the help of the law). If PM is more appropriate, please proceed.

Lastly, I have been surfing a 5'5 Firewire baked potato literally everyday for 4 mths straight. Super fun for summer weak waves. But now I find that my short board is next to impossible for me. Its slow, unstable and catches a fraction of the waves. Would your advice be to simply ditch boards like the Baked potato? Remembering that I would like to take my surfing as far as I possibly can for a middle aged person.

[Indo dreaming]

Question for Nick and although a little strange its a serious one.

In movie 20-20 (surfing life board test one @ tellos) @ 00:57 you pick what looks like Indo style pillows up from the baggage carousel?

Whats the story with that?

I would not have thought you would need to take pillows to the TIL.

Ive been thinking of taking a pillow on my next Indo trip, sounds soft, but im staying in remote village, travel on overnight wooden ferry etc and i never get good sleep and end up using anything for a pillow, so im thinking of giving the pillow a go.

[Nick Carroll]

Yeah PM more appropriate mate

re the FW, if it's making your normal board feel like shit, why abandon it? It's giving you a hint. A lot of surfers are opting for more volume in a shorter package these days, I suspect because it helps 'em get past a range of technical issues. Go with it, try to match or exceed the Potato's volume on a slightly longer board next time, and don't go to the longer board till the waves have some lift and energy in 'em.

[Nick Carroll]

Question for Nick and although a little strange its a serious one.

In movie 20-20 (surfing life board test one @ tellos) @ 00:57 you pick what looks like Indo style pillows up from the baggage carousel?

Whats the story with that?

I would not have thought you would need to take pillows to the TIL.

Ive been thinking of taking a pillow on my next Indo trip, sounds soft, but im staying in remote village, travel on overnight wooden ferry etc and i never get good sleep and end up using anything for a pillow, so im thinking of giving the pillow a go.

They weren't my pillows. I was helping a nice old lady with her shit.

[Indo dreaming]

ha ha ok now that makes sense those Indo pillows are horrible rock solid things

[mrleed]

Thanks Nick. Could I pls trouble you to PM me some suggestions for surf "coaching". I am in the Eastern suburbs, but will happily travel (especially to better/less crowded waves). Gotten some great tips from the "correct paddling" thread, your book and some local rippers, but really need to see a path to the destination.

Re short stubby board. I went to the baked potato cause Dan Mann has a deserved reputation in Socal (where I moved from) for making user friendly boards that are super fast. Thanks again. I got out the short board in less than ideal conditions cause I cracked the FW pulling into a shorey (yes they ding and crack like all boards. Just less pressure dents/creases). Will fix the crack and wait for better waves before getting the short board out again. I simply can't generate the same speed on a short board as I can on the Baked Potato.

[Rufus]

G'day Nick, question from a noob. On flat days I have a racing mal that I like to take out for a paddle. Picked it when I had a torn hammy as a means of keeping in the water whilst waiting for the leg to heal. Enjoyed it far more than I thought I would.

Anyway, this thing is a piece of shit, takes on water despite there being no apparent dings. I swear it's 2kgs heavier after a paddle so I'd like to upgrade. I've got no clubbie background or ties and have absolutely no idea who makes a decent board. Infront are down my way however anyone who includes lines on their site like "The Custom Racing Mal board will help even the beginner manoeuvre his way through the water mass" doesn't inspire confidence. That's straight out of Engrish 101.

So anyway my question is 1) Who's a good manufacturer, preferably in Sydney? 2) Is carbon fibre worth the extra $$$ More interested in this from a durability point of view.

Thanks!

[Nick Carroll]

Your board's probably leaking through one of the strap holes.

Best clubbie type racing board makers, hmm, Kracka up at Swansea is way the best for custom racing boards, and JM in Qld I think is the best for the longer stock open ocean racing boards. Carbon or not carbon is a pretty specialised call and depends more on what sorta feel you want than on supposed resilience imo.

But for what you want, I would suggest getting a Bennett Robustlite model, a lot cheaper, v tough materials a la Tuflite plus, and you'll be paying about 2/3 the price of a hand cut racing board, which dead set unless you're racing, you don't need.

Go see Greg Bennett at Brooky, see if you can talk him into a few bucks off.

[Beanpole]

Hayden?

[Nick Carroll]

Hayden makes good boards but they're up on the sunny coast. rufus is asking about Sydney area.

[Rufus]

Thanks Nick & Beanpole. I'll check them out.

I suspect you're right about the leaking straps as I catch a lot of little waves if I'm paddling along the beachfront and use the straps as a means of really leaning into a turn. Dunno if they're designed to cop a lot of stress.