No wave surfs

[chrisb]

Based on your two mishaps perhaps you should have a surf-break each February as it just isn't your month

[daryl]

A couple of times when surfing long open beach breaks I've found myself stuck in a Star Trek style tractor beam / reverse rip sort of thing, where try as I might I cannot move. Paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle I'm not moving here comes set number 5 aww come on man?! And yet 20 metres either side of me other dudes are paddling out sweet as. One of those ended up being a no wave surf cause I got absolutely r00ted just trying to get out...

Ever had one of those?

Circular rip

[Surfin Turf]

I thought you were going to give your board to the booger, Matt Johnson style.

"do you surrf man, are you a surrfer "

"argh nooo ... I'm just a garbage man"

[Grooter]

A couple of times when surfing long open beach breaks I've found myself stuck in a Star Trek style tractor beam / reverse rip sort of thing, where try as I might I cannot move. Paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle I'm not moving here comes set number 5 aww come on man?! And yet 20 metres either side of me other dudes are paddling out sweet as. One of those ended up being a no wave surf cause I got absolutely r00ted just trying to get out...

Ever had one of those?

Can definitely relate to that although it doesn't happen as much as it used to. I'm a slow learner but over time I've managed to work out my favorite spots pretty well to avoid getting caught in situations like that.

My favorite left-hand reef break can be ridden as a right but after attempting this feat twice I have sworn to never do it again. Mainly because while it's a nice long ride you just end up in no-mans land if you don't ride it short and wide enough to get out of the way of the white-water on any day over 3 foot. If you ride it too long and you end up in the white water on the inside you're basically fcuked as you'll wear a constant barrage of white-water sets trying to get out - once took me 15 minutes to get back out

[oldman]

.......Ever had one of those?

Circular rip

Yep, been there more times than I would like to remember. Maroubra dunny bowl gets like that occasionally. Geez it can be annoying.

[Da Duke]

I guess you know your getting too old Grazza when you catch someone red-handed stealing your board and you "growl" at them instead of ringing their freakin bell. Grazza this could of been a story of regret, a eulogy even for the death of restraint and the loss of composure to the heat of the moment as you accosted a lowlife looting scumbag red-handed. About how you feel really guilty for slapping this guy across the ear with an open palm but your emotions and frustrations got the better of you and...well, you just lost it, because thieving bastards are the scourge of the earth etc etc. We'd all say, don't feel too bad mate, your only human and, you don't like to be kicked in nuts when your already coping a hiding from Huey! we all understand man...but tell us again and this time really describe the look on his face when the little turd saw he'd be busted.

Sorry but thieving little kyunts get me riled.

...as Rockin Ronnie says "your a better man than me".

when you say "growl" do you mean literally G R O W L !!or was it more of a snarl. Bear or dog Grazza?

[Trev]

I still reckon you should have given that lidder a smack over the chops

Had it been me, he wouldn't have been bothering the surf scene anymore, however I guess we have to take into account Grazza's long hold downs, long swim, flat out run - probably lucky he didn't try. The kid could probably knocked him down with one finger by that stage.
I'm amazed at Grazza's stamina to get that far.
Mate, don't doubt yourself. Your actions say you're still pretty fit.

[chrisb]

I thought you were going to give your board to the booger, Matt Johnson style.

"do you surrf man, are you a surrfer "

"argh nooo ... I'm just a garbage man"

That's the lemon next to the pie.

"And I even passed out in your closet, but I never, and I don't know who it could have if I didn't, but I never, and I repeat never, ever pissed in your steam iron".

[ric_vidal]

I guess you know your getting too old Grazza when you catch someone red-handed stealing your board and you "growl" at them instead of ringing their freakin bell. Grazza this could of been a story of regret, a eulogy even for the death of restraint and the loss of composure to the heat of the moment as you accosted a lowlife looting scumbag red-handed.

Given Grazza’s family history you would think any act of violence were out of the question.

[Surfin Turf]

That's the lemon next to the pie.

"And I even passed out in your closet, but I never, and I don't know who it could have if I didn't, but I never, and I repeat never, ever pissed in your steam iron".


Sergeant: Are you a homosexual?
Buff Brad: Well, I guess I am. I wrote it down, "Homosexual Tendencies: Yes." Yes.
Sergeant: Well, you're just gonna love it in the United States Army. There's lots of men there. And they get real close in foxholes and tanks, and in combat. Get him out of here and process him in the Marine Corps.
Buff Brad: If you send me to Vietnam, I'll just die.

It was the summer of the east swell ... the three friends would sit at the point and watch sh!tty wind blown slop and dream of better days ... it was the swell of change , everyone had changed ... meaner, angryer and nastier ... the three friends would wonder about the times ahead when there might be some decent f'cking surf ... and was this to be their last summer together ...

[Nick Carroll]

That's the lemon next to the pie.

"And I even passed out in your closet, but I never, and I don't know who it could have if I didn't, but I never, and I repeat never, ever pissed in your steam iron".


Sergeant: Are you a homosexual?
Buff Brad: Well, I guess I am. I wrote it down, "Homosexual Tendencies: Yes." Yes.
Sergeant: Well, you're just gonna love it in the United States Army. There's lots of men there. And they get real close in foxholes and tanks, and in combat. Get him out of here and process him in the Marine Corps.
Buff Brad: If you send me to Vietnam, I'll just die.

It was the summer of the east swell ... the three friends would sit at the point and watch sh!tty wind blown slop and dream of better days ... it was the swell of change , everyone had changed ... meaner, angryer and nastier ... the three friends would wonder about the times ahead when there might be some decent f'cking surf ... and was this to be their last summer together ...

The Realsurfers watch at the top of the walkway to the Long Reef BBQs....watch as Davey Cathels or some such tears strips off another two foot closeout, finishing up with the move du jour, and air reverse.
Iggy (quiet, thoughtful): He's as good as they say he is.
All the other RSurfers (chortling in chorus): And so were we!!
The RSers turn and wander off, TMC smacking Kyles's bum, to the silent annoyance of Iggy

[Surfin Turf]

That's the lemon next to the pie.

"And I even passed out in your closet, but I never, and I don't know who it could have if I didn't, but I never, and I repeat never, ever pissed in your steam iron".


Sergeant: Are you a homosexual?
Buff Brad: Well, I guess I am. I wrote it down, "Homosexual Tendencies: Yes." Yes.
Sergeant: Well, you're just gonna love it in the United States Army. There's lots of men there. And they get real close in foxholes and tanks, and in combat. Get him out of here and process him in the Marine Corps.
Buff Brad: If you send me to Vietnam, I'll just die.

It was the summer of the east swell ... the three friends would sit at the point and watch sh!tty wind blown slop and dream of better days ... it was the swell of change , everyone had changed ... meaner, angryer and nastier ... the three friends would wonder about the times ahead when there might be some decent f'cking surf ... and was this to be their last summer together ...

The Realsurfers watch at the top of the walkway to the Long Reef BBQs....watch as Davey Cathels or some such tears strips off another two foot closeout, finishing up with the move du jour, and air reverse.
Iggy (quiet, thoughtful): He's as good as they say he is.
All the other RSurfers (chortling in chorus): And so were we!!
The RSers turn and wander off, TMC smacking Kyles's bum, to the silent annoyance of Iggy

The End ... as the sun sets over the condemned pier ...

sunset over the pier.JPG

[Da Duke]

I guess you know your getting too old Grazza when you catch someone red-handed stealing your board and you "growl" at them instead of ringing their freakin bell. Grazza this could of been a story of regret, a eulogy even for the death of restraint and the loss of composure to the heat of the moment as you accosted a lowlife looting scumbag red-handed.

Given Grazza’s family history you would think any act of violence were out of the question.

now it makes sense - sorry Grazza didn't know.

[scroopulis]

Actually yeh me too, sorry 'bout that Grazz. Its funny, I'd think that, yeh I'd belt the bloke, but really when I think about it, I'd have probably done the same thing and just roared me faarken head off at him.
Hope your lad is doing well, actually met him at a training session last year and he came across as a champion. Sorry for off tangent.


"I hope you all brought your toothbrushes...."

[marcus]

I still reckon you should have given that lidder a smack over the chops

Agree
had boards pinched from the channel too, f#ckin low act.
if you find a board washed up, find the person that lost it, leave it there up where they can find it or hand it to the clubbies.

[oldman]

Anyone want to start putting realsurf characters to the Big Wednesday cast.

Jan Michael Vincent - Matt - Ric-Vidal

William Katt - Jack - Clif

Gary Busey - Leroy - Iggy

Sam Melville - Bear - Larry

Darrell Fetty - Waxer - Surfin Turf

Gerry Lopez - Himself - Nick Carroll (wig required)

Reb Brown - Enforcer - Buff Brad

Ok, I had to look these characters names up on the interwebs. This seems to have them all. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077235/fullcredits


John Milius - marijuana dealer in Tijuana - oldman! (It's a small part, for a small man)

[chopescahrger]

i surfed bower the same time as you i think
looked only 4-5ft but there were some solid sets coming through every now and then
i usually bodyboard but decided to have a go at bower on a stick
my mate was telling me how powerful it was when u got caught inside
i didnt believe him thinkin how can a wave that doesnt really barrel have that much power
but after getting caught inside by 4 set waves i understood what he meant
got a few crackers though
was real good
i saw 5 at least 5 guys snap there leashes
pretty powerful
i saw one barrel too

[danw]

Had a no wave surf last night. Paddled out at the Bower, right round from the rocks on the inside rather than rocking off at winks just so that I could get a good look at things. Got to the inside take-off posi, and sat where I usually sit outside the boil next to that rock that sticks out of the water. There's about 10 others on the outside take-off, sitting another 20m out again, but seriously it didn't look that big - 4, maybe 5 - and it doesn't break out there unless it 8+ at least, so I figured they were having a good tug, as it were.

After maybe a 3 minute wait, I paddled for, but didn't get, a 5 footer, and turned to see a serious and freakishly large set unloading right in front of me. Absolutely no chance of a duckdive, so I dived for the bottom and got under OK, but got hauled back a way by the leggy. Much less time to take a breath for the second, but not too bad. The third one I had a couple of seconds max to prepare. It's a shallow, ragged dive, and my board is ripped from my leggy. Wave four, without a board, should have been easier, but with no time to get by breath back, it's nasty. The swell direction is ENE, so instead of washing me through the reef, it's holding me in closer to the rocks inside the peak. The water is now churning white and probably 50% air or more, so both floating to top after each wave, and getting in a decent breath when I'm there, is increasingly difficult.

Eventually, it takes 10 waves to sweep me through to the deep water on the other side. All the time I am telling myself that I'll get there eventually, but it takes what seems like forever. At the end, I'm heaving breaths like I have emphysema. I can't see my board anywhere, and I'm closer to halfway beach, so I slowly breast stroke (thinking, all the time - who can help it these days - shark) across to the rocks, in time to see some booger, 300m across the bay picking up my board, looking around and making up the path. I far as I could, I ran up to the car park, getting there just in time to growl at this kid putting my board into the back of his car.

My wife suggests, with deep and touching concern, firstly that I call it a day in bigger stuff, and secondly, with somewhat more urgency, that I get a will in place "just in case". Now some of you might concur, remembering my harrowing tale from last year http://forum.realsurf.com/forum/viewtop ... =4&t=13176 and see in this further confirmation that I'm a deluded old fart and that it's time for me to pull my head in. However, I'm inclined to say that it means I can still deal with this stuff (although it does feel like the margin for error is shrinking). After all, I didn't have to be rescued this time.

So the first thing that occurs to me is when is too old? How will I know?

The second is that this is the first time I can ever remember going for a surf and getting no waves. Zero. Not one.

what part grazza play. he's topic