RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Gentle offshore here at 6am.
Kicked off the comp.
Within an hour or so it was 16+ Knots NE.
In my main heat I got the highest wave score.
But couldn't buy a second wave.
Still 4th put of 6 somehow.

Got a few today. Should have got out after the third one though as a variety of shit entered the line up. In this case the human variety that must have been dumped off a boat just offshore.

Last Mal Comp I went in, Trev, I had high hopes for my heat because I had been surfing that particular bank for a couple of weeks. Paddled out and a set came just as the hooter sounded. Another guy had actually taken off slightly before but they didn't call it back. Sat waiting for the next set.........and we all waited for the entire heat. Another wave didn't break for 20 minutes. So the first guy won.

I went in a mal club comp up the northern beaches a few years back.

Nailed a fin first take off and managed to swing the board back around. Was stoked with it, got a few hoots.
When I went in, I was told that it didn't count as fin first take offs weren't a recognised scoring manoevre. Didn't bother with comps after that.

dawn raid. Chest to head high peaks south-bra on the nuggz. Lotsa turnz

I got one cracker today on the mal. Sat wide and further out. One walled up and broke fast right through to the shore break.
#tiptime

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:10 pm

dawn raid. Chest to head high peaks south-bra on the nuggz. Lotsa turnz

When the rear foot is near the tail I reckon only about 9" of hard edged and rounded rail (plan shape) - right where the rail fin is - is engaged and it turns on a dime. I'm not sure just how many Nugget riders actually get to that stage of board control.

For the most part my backfoot is placed right in the middle of the fin cluster, between the front fins and rear or even a bit further back.

Very easy board to turn in spite of the bulk.

It’s probably only thruster I can remember where my foot is that far back, and it feels natural to have it there.

...

If you’re a back foot top to bottom type surfer I reckon you’d do well on a 5’10 nugget

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:24 pm

For the most part my backfoot is placed right in the middle of the fin cluster, between the front fins and rear or even a bit further back.

Very easy board to turn in spite of the bulk.

It’s probably only thruster I can remember where my foot is that far back, and it feels natural to have it there.

Yeah, my rear foot is mostly in the centre of the fin cluster, but if I'm on a big open face and want to go vertical I'll slide it back against the tail block so I can come off the bottom and the top. On a decent size wave the tail has never let go on me.

Moving forward on the board does not make it go faster.

Legion wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:24 pm

Wait, so there's an inner sanctum of nugget riders?

And can someone explain what hard edged rounded means?

I edited my original post. Tail is as per tail in the image below, but even sharper on the edge.

Rounded refers to the tail plan shape, Its so rounded that with your weight and back foot right back, there is not much of the tail in the water as you turn so it turns really sharply, but critically, it doesn't let go. Hence my surprise when my pintail with a big single and sides let go on the wave face last week.

So if that's the case it wouldn't really matter that much how long it was.

Sort of. I have 4 Nuggets 6'8 to 8' and they are all really similar. The width, thickness and weight goes up so you just can't throw the bigger ones around as much, but the 7'4 and 8' (63 and 72 litres) are paddling monsters.

I just love dropping in early on double overhead waves on them. I'm already driving down the line when the short boarders are still paddling and just getting to their feet.

I'd rather be on my 6'8 or 7' but my wave count would suffer. I'm no wave hog though, just getting my share.

channels wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 18, 2020 2:01 pm

I went in a mal club comp up the northern beaches a few years back.

Nailed a fin first take off and managed to swing the board back around. Was stoked with it, got a few hoots.
When I went in, I was told that it didn't count as fin first take offs weren't a recognised scoring manoevre. Didn't bother with comps after that.

Well, of course it doesn't count.
If you'd combined it with a head dip however?

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:57 pm

Legion wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 18, 2020 4:24 pm

Wait, so there's an inner sanctum of nugget riders?

And can someone explain what hard edged rounded means?

I edited my original post. Tail is as per tail in the image below, but even sharper on the edge.

Rounded refers to the tail plan shape, Its so rounded that with your weight and back foot right back, there is not much of the tail in the water as you turn so it turns really sharply, but critically, it doesn't let go. Hence my surprise when my pintail with a big single and sides let go on the wave face last week.

Is that Kramer?

Tell you what that big meaty nugget tail goes awright on reos. Can really jam hard high and tight, sprayz fa’ dayz amirite hey lol