RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Oh well....Clubbies put the flags up on the nice little bank down the south end I've been riding. Got a park on the main road in the middle. Bank out the front way too crowded and needed more water on the bank. Sunday.

5:30am, there was a bit of swell early and almost no wind. Got a handful of ho-hum waves. Then possibly the best wave of the day. I was riding a 7'6 pin tail mid-length for a change. Overhead wave, beautiful steep drop, got some speed up, enough to hit a hard bottom turn that - forgetting I was on a 14" tail 2+1 pinny instead of a 17" tail McCoy or a mal - slid the tail as the fins let go, but they reconnected for the best down the line wave I've caught in Perth this year. Workable sections!

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Remember I never use surfer's feet or body parts, and it was the biggest wave of the morning (around 7am)

Observed surf report "chest to shoulder high with head high sets" at http://www.srosurf.com/mandurah.shtml

Mandurah swell buoy showing a bit over 2m.

Wind still light cross off at that time.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 11, 2020 3:24 pm

5:30am, there was a bit of swell early and almost no wind. Got a handful of ho-hum waves. Then possibly the best wave of the day. I was riding a 7'6 pin tail mid-length for a change. Overhead wave, beautiful steep drop, got some speed up, enough to hit a hard bottom turn that - forgetting I was on a 14" tail 2+1 pinny instead of a 17" tail McCoy or a mal - slid the tail as the fins let go, but they reconnected for the best down the line wave I've caught in Perth this year. Workable sections!

When was the last time you spent a full summer in Perth?

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channels wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 11, 2020 6:05 pm

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 11, 2020 3:24 pm

5:30am, there was a bit of swell early and almost no wind. Got a handful of ho-hum waves. Then possibly the best wave of the day. I was riding a 7'6 pin tail mid-length for a change. Overhead wave, beautiful steep drop, got some speed up, enough to hit a hard bottom turn that - forgetting I was on a 14" tail 2+1 pinny instead of a 17" tail McCoy or a mal - slid the tail as the fins let go, but they reconnected for the best down the line wave I've caught in Perth this year. Workable sections!

When was the last time you spent a full summer in Perth?

Seven years ago.

I've never surfed in Perth really. When I moved here in 1990 I checked the surf for a year, took days off when it was supposed to be "good" but it was so bad I never even went in the water.

So I took up windsurfing and as I got better I gravitated to Lancelin and Avalon. The surf was better than Perth so I started surfing at both those places as well and then as I got better still I was windsurfing (mainly) and surfing Margaret River and Gnaraloo.

I was also spending a two months a year in Indo fairly often as well and soon I ditched windsurfing and just concentrated on surfing Indo and downhill biking here in Perth. From about 2000 on I mainly surfed Indo and for the last 6 years just Bali for 6 months a year and virtually no surfing at all in WA.

Not looking good in Bali for the rona

Legion wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 11, 2020 6:16 pm

It was that a pintail slides out when a 17"! McCoy dome doesn't.

LOL, now you tell me!

I've never had a McCoy slide out on me, they just don't.

My problem with the pintail was I used the force and foot positioning I would have used on a McCoy and just pushed it out of the water despite having a 7" centre and two 5" sides. The 7" was pretty forward in the box though and my foot was right on the tail, and just as it slid I was already unweighting the tail and changing rails to turn under the lip so it worked out pretty well. Then repeat but with less force.

Read the fine print

“This has been an advertorial for McCoy surfboards”

Another shark again. Just a Tiger today. Wondering if it’s the same shark but was previously called a GW.

Thud wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 11, 2020 7:16 pm

Read the fine print

“This has been an advertorial for McCoy surfboards”

Not at all, I'm really looking forward to dropping in on my 7'6 pintail on something double overhead at some of the bukit surf spots and being able to drop as fast and project down the line with an old school huge bottom turn. At high speed the water's like a rock and I won't be pushing that tail out at all. I had just my two pintail wide point forward boards for the two weeks I was in Bali this year and they were going great for me.

I like overhead waves, I have more time to get to my feet and its easier to do while I'm pretty well weightless in free fall. Just the thing for old men.

Well there’s all types of overhead waves. Beach break coming from deep water onto shallow banks and a little straight at 15-20 seconds etc.

Beach breaks!

It's probably been over 40 years since I've surfed a beach break.

That’s why you have good knees and have never been a skateboarder.

Went over to the Bra with Junior for a look. Pretty crap but I probably would have paddled out. There was some sort of sheltered workshop surf comp down the south end which we watched for a while. I'm presuming they had some type of issues with coordination and mental focus from the standard of surfing.

Chest to head high bowly peaks mid-gong beachie on the nuggz. Lotsa turnz

Got a couple of great little barrels at Headies on the way to the shops. 3 guys out, glassy 2-3ft.

The surprise stoke!