RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Bronte was big and looked pretty good this morning. Still waves this arvo. Three out this morning plus three getting washed over the inside reef. Three then four this arvo. One guy tried paddling out off the beach. Must have copped twenty waves on the head before giving up. Another guy jumped off the pool and didn't make it out. One broken board that I saw. Six out now.
A lot of south in the swell. A lot of old stagers checking it out from the cutting.

Some guy snapped his leggie at Newport today and got dragged around to Bilgola and swam in there. Police were called. Nick, RUOK?

I was also called, emergency rescue call-out.

Surfed my fucking brains out today! The swell really booted again this afternoon, way up into the 10'+ range. Little Makaha off the back of Long Reef was like big Laniakea. Kelly surfed Little Avalon and gave the entire suburb of Avalon a shivery attack of relevance. All the murfers dashed to the cliffside, hoping against hope.

Kelly just on nine news with the broken board story for the cameras - didn't see any murfers but lots of kids.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Fri May 22, 2020 6:05 pm

I was also called, emergency rescue call-out.

Surfed my fucking brains out today! The swell really booted again this afternoon, way up into the 10'+ range. Little Makaha off the back of Long Reef was like big Laniakea. Kelly surfed Little Avalon and gave the entire suburb of Avalon a shivery attack of relevance. All the murfers dashed to the cliffside, hoping against hope.

Good to hear.

Kelly posted a little clip. Looked insane.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Fri May 22, 2020 6:05 pm

I was also called, emergency rescue call-out.

Surfed my fuschia brains out today! The swell really booted again this afternoon, way up into the 10'+ range. Little Makaha off the back of Long Reef was like big Laniakea. Kelly surfed Little Avalon and gave the entire suburb of Avalon a shivery attack of relevance. All the murfers dashed to the cliffside, hoping against hope.

....and by shivery attack of relevance we obviously mean an orgasm.

Well i just went really, really fast on the biggest wave I've surfed in a long time.

Then got dropped in on.

Then flogged and dragged along underwater for quite sometime. That part was a little scary. As were the clean up sets.

I was contemplating going out at Impossibles one day when it was forecast to build. I checked it from the Padang bridge and it looked OK, but its not a good place to assess whats really happening. Rode down to the middle of Impossibles and down a small gang to have a better look from the top of the cliff.

Four surfers were paddling out in the middle, about 20 clustered at the very end of Impossibles near the point that defines the start of Bingin, about 500m away (the big wave takeoff point for Impossibles), double overhead which is OK. Thought I'd watch for a while though. A much bigger set came marching down from Ulus, a kilometre out, it was really big. The four surfers are were 400m out now and the set really started to show and bend in as it felt the outer reef. It just got bigger and bigger, I'm hoping the surfers can see it but they can't, it finally hits real hard 50m out from the four surfers and 10-15 foot of whitewater comes rolling in, hits them soon after and rolls on, I'm waiting to see them surface, I see nothing, zilch, they're gone. I can't explain it, I look and look starting to worry but there's nothing I can do.

In the end I guess that the rip down to Bingin must have been like a river and they had been swept down in the whitewater unseen in the foam. That or they all downed.

Serious question, is 10 to 15 feet of whitewater 10 to 15 feet, or, like waves, 20 to 30 feet?

I never use the surfers feet, its Imperial all the way with me offy. But that's an interesting point you make about whether it applies to whitewater, I assumed it didn't. Ask Nick! Maybe there's some complex historic thing that justifies it in regard to whitewater too.

If someone said 10-15 feet of whitewater coming at me, I’d take it literally.
But you’d assume that was bigger when it initially broke, also.

wooooo solid Germans today.

Avoca became manageable but it’s busy for 2 peaks and I’ve not seen so many people botch rides and drop ins for years. Surf had power and was too good for some. Shoulder will ache tonight. For the record rode a 6’8 Fred Rubble. Could have used a rounded pin.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sat May 23, 2020 2:17 pm

I never use the surfers feet, its Imperial all the way with me offy. But that's an interesting point you make about whether it applies to whitewater, I assumed it didn't. Ask Nick! Maybe there's some complex historic thing that justifies it in regard to whitewater too.

Without really wanting to go here again I actually thought the Hawaiian Size thing originally measured white water not the wave face. As in the wave may have a huge face but only crest and roll as opposed to breaking top to bottom.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Sat May 23, 2020 2:29 pm

wooooo solid Germans today.

Watched that this morning from the lookout. Looked big and wild. Some waves seemed to be breaking in a bit of a different spot. Closer to the headland.

Edit. Just saw you’re other post. Definitely looked like it was breaking further north at times.

Thud wrote: ↑

Sat May 23, 2020 3:01 pm

Avoca became manageable but it’s busy for 2 peaks and I’ve not seen so many people botch rides and drop ins for years. Surf had power and was too good for some. Shoulder will ache tonight. For the record rode a 6’8 Fred Rubble. Could have used a rounded pin.

Looked at Avoca on the cam earlier this arvo. Watched a big set come through and steamroll everyone. Wondered if you were out there. Looked pretty big.

What time BA? It wasn’t as daunting as it looked, heaps of water under it and a time between sets and waves.

Arvo go out at elouera beach. Clean but lots of water moving. Solid 6 with 8 foot sets