RealSurf Surfers' Forum

I surfed for 3 hours at the site of the proposed pool.
2/3 ft perfectly clean, felt like groundswell. Half of that time I was on my own, the other half with 2 others.
The water was pretty filthy. That’s the only reason I can think was holding back the crowds.
Everynow and then big areas of foam filled with piles of dirt would surround me.
I was worried it was shit as it was coming toward me but then it just smelt like earth.

Pumping again, so much paddling over the past week, so fatigued.

NBs, offshore breeze, warm water and waves - what more could you want.

Fcuk.....half hearted decision to chuck the foamy in when I went down for a swim. More energy than yesterday. More options. Paddled around and caught a few sneaky ones in between the surprising number of young hotshots busting airs and carving up the little peaks. Half paddled out to a bigger peak that was breaking intermittently and scored a couple of decent sized ones that broke right and then reformed at the same size as a left as the swell drifted onto the inside bank. Stoked.
Love the random factor of surfing. One day everything goes to shite.....the next it makes your day.

It was absolutely pumping down here. Perfect swell direction.

I have a serious sea ulcer happening on my foot, but I just can't stay out of the water.

Nice lines of swell but nowhere any good that I could find round here. Didn’t search too far though.

Bronte looking way better than it was when you got out there. Very hard to be in the right place at the right time.

Well Wyre, you'll be pleased to know that bank is still hanging in there. Was pumping for the late tonight. Hope you get the opportunity to catch it with some swell, it's producing some lovely waves.

black duck wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 22, 2020 6:55 pm

Well Wyre, you'll be pleased to know that bank is still hanging in there. Was pumping for the late tonight. Hope you get the opportunity to catch it with some swell, it's producing some lovely waves.

Awesome. Hopefully nothing too big comes through between now and the weekend to wash it away. Might see you there?

Prolly, if there’s swell.

Nationals.
Not nearly as crowded as i expected.

Trev wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:40 pm

Nationals.
Not nearly as crowded as i expected.

The longboard festival is on ... we're you giving head-dip tips ?

It's a fun wave. Everyone is probably surfed out after the last swell.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 24, 2020 7:12 pm

It's a fun wave. Everyone is probably surfed out after the last swell.

Haha. No mate. Ive been here since Friday. Just this session was quiet.
For about an hour

Lol Trev.

I'm going to Bali for a month next Monday, it will be interesting to see what effect Covid 19 has on the crowds. There was a pretty dramatic drop in the number of tourists in Chiang Mai when we were there for the last month.

It could be the best season in Bali, crowd wise, for decades

Yesterday I messaged the Losmen where I stay, a driver to pick me up from the airport and another to rent a bike from and they all replied within a minute or two.

Trev wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2020 5:40 am

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 24, 2020 7:12 pm

It's a fun wave. Everyone is probably surfed out after the last swell.

Haha. No mate. Ive been here since Friday. Just this session was quiet.
For about an hour

You see ten to fifteen out there when it's dead flat. Lucky you got a break in the traffic. It was drop in city at Bondi on Sunday. Lucky I didn't get decapitated.

This is sounding like a dream trip, Cranked, that is if you don't get sick and die.
I think you're going to be fine and enjoy one of your best Bali interludes.