RealSurf Surfers' Forum

They are just using a WW3 wave model like everyone else but with no enhancement for local anomalies nor bathymetry, and normal imperial feet.

kJs are only 6,500 because of a pretty short period, not significantly more than the 4,500 of the recent modest Indo swell

Fcuk the surf is sooooooo good today

I took my boyo out for his first surf at the Point today. really, really hard offshore. we had a corner to ourselves. it was quite amazing.
I said go in past the hut and he went straight in and clambered up like a little monkey and claimed it.

Temples early. Only one person out at 6:30am. Got a few nice fast little waves and a cover up. The crowd had slowly increased to 20 when I paddled/reef hopped in at 8:30 - tide just about too low to surf it anyway

Cranked, so happy to see you back amongst it.

offshore1 wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 08, 2019 12:39 pm

Cranked, so happy to see you back amongst it.

Thanks. Me too offy.

Any cyclone, oops, hurricane damage?

Dodged a bullet this time Cranked. Minimal effects, minor debris clean up.
I think where Trev is/was in Canada visiting his daughter, is getting hit now.

offshore1 wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 08, 2019 1:10 pm

Dodged a bullet this time Cranked. Minimal effects, minor debris clean up.
I think where Trev is/was in Canada visiting his daughter, is getting hit now.

Yeah. We got out of NS just in time.
Serious issues there today with massive power outages, flooding and a collapsed crane.
It's my son, offy.
My daughter and other son are in Brisbane.

8-10 foot beanpole greenhills.

Fucking cooking, no crowd and I’m out with the ear surgery.

cooking this arvo eh.

Such a great day here, solid 4-6’ SE swell totally cleaned and polished by a fresh to strong WSW that relaxed a bit through the early arvo, I went back to the 6’1” ten channel singly and switched the fin for one with depth but a bit less base/overall volume, the thing was so good for the conditions.

Why the single? Was it down the line type surf?

(I surfed a single also and often do if it’s overhead and walled up)

Ah I just felt like it

Was the east component in the swell due to some type of refraction around your local reefs? Nulla was about as directional south as ever

Was rubbish down south, too close to the source probably. 3ft sets at best, closeouts everywhere. Wind went s/e and put a decent chop through it by lunchtime. Went out anyway as the tide came back in and the closeouts weren't quite as closey outy. Wasn't a bottom 50 but certainly wasn't anything worth writing about, except to let you know that while the surf may have been pumping in your neck of the woods, around here, it wasn't.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 08, 2019 5:50 pm

Was the east component in the swell due to some type of refraction around your local reefs? Nulla was about as directional south as ever

Well it seemed like there were two swells, one a bit shorter interval and one - bigger - longer interval and refracting a bit off bombie reefs

That longer interval one was magical and gorgeous. Very much a perfect winter's day in spring. Fcuk I'm sunburned.