RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Southerly just hit here. It'll be in sydney before lunch.

Oily glassy first thing this morning and fun. Mostly just waist high.

jimmy wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 24, 2019 11:22 pm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 24, 2019 6:03 pm

jimmy wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 24, 2019 5:53 pm

I was happy to get the fuck out of there in my early 20’s

The general mindset of the inhabitants?

Yep. All whitebread bogans except for a few. I keep in contact with the good blokes I grew up with. Terapai Richmond who’s a seriously good drummer and Greg Mckinley (the ox). They both only surf the reefs around there these days. I think the heaviest waves I’ve ever surfed were at Vooey mid 80’s with Jim Banks and Michael Mackie and Terapai. 8-10 foot south swell with a NW wind and six blokes out. I shit myself thinking about it now.

Terapai's a decent drummer too saw him charging the point and huge island many times

Took the mal out this morning, fun and super glassy.

Right board for the conditions.

I took out my 5’10” so I could do some tic-tacing. Which I did.

Had a nice little bank at DY before the wind. Surfed a fishy thing. Pleasant

Finally, soccer season has finished, and the southerly comes in.

Got a park on the second run through. Took the fish out. Should have brought the foamy. Super crowded. Managed to get a couple of lefts that went for a fair distance. Reminded myself to trim my toe nails By bending my big toe getting up on one.
Southerly hit to end the session.

Well back from the trip with mixed success . Got to Bendalong late Thursday arvo . Was just a churning mess . Friday was just so out of control so into the car and found this a long way away , such was the swell size everywhere was maxed out . Some may recognize but I won`t name it . Got some gems and some info from the locals on where to head next , so once I`d had my fill here off again to find some other hidden waves . Surfed three different spots Friday . Saturday was a lot cleaner , Bendalong throwing some big waves with some heavy cleanups coming through with great frequency . Quite a few broken boards too but none here . After some thumpings amongst waves someone suggested around the corner would yield some good waves if you went looking . Of I went and sure enough spotted one point with only a couple out . Whilst out there looked north and could see swell lines everywhere so after an hour off I went walking , stopping to surf peaks as I fancied .

Woke up this morning with high hopes of another full day of waves but the south / south easter was into everything .

You could have dropped in on The Duck. Maybe you did.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 25, 2019 7:23 pm

You could have dropped in on The Duck. Maybe you did.

No burnings this week end beans, just disappointment in where i surfed and my rank capabilities.

Not on your own there. Although there were burnings aplenty around the traps here.

Fcuk it's kind of booming in Sydney region today, ESE and SE 4-6' with a pole-axing SSE wind blowing

I just did a crazy downwind on skis with the open squad from Makaha to Newport, just fcuking planing and surfing the whole way, exhilarating and kind of terrifying, it's another level pushing a 19' ski at full speed downwind in those conditions 4ks offshore. Four of us, cloud streaming overhead, gannets and other big roaming seabirds hunting and bombing into the troughs. You couldn't hear anything over the roaring wind and big whitewaters exploding all over the place. The ski was shivering from the speed and making noises like a sailboat under wind pressure. 12k and all of them under 3.40 per k, a couple getting near to 3mins. I chickened out of a run that stood up taller than the ski.

that sounds awesome, nick. how come you chickened out?

I felt I was in the wrong position to pull it off. I was several ks off Bungan Beach, the wave was standing up vertically, and there was every chance I'd pitch-pole the ski at the base. Discretion > valour. There's always another one right behind you in conditions like that, and indeed! there was.

It was awesome though, it is awesome. Wind! Water!

Far out NC awesome. From one waterman to another. Respect brother.

Shearer wouldn’t stand a chance out there.

4 Kays off Bungan...teeeheheheh.....

I almost pitch-poled a 50ft yacht trying to surf down the face of a fifty foot open ocean swell at night in 40knots of wind a hundred nautical miles south of Hawaii Loof.

hand tiller, no blocks.

you want to feel you heart drop into your ball bag try that on.