Where did you surf today ?

Can't find the right forum, then post your general surf-related remarks here!

Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, beach_defender, Shari, Forum Moderators

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 1:44 pm

Lucky Al wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:20 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 11:57 am
fcuk it's so good here today.

tomorrow, Surfline.com, 13.2 ft at 16 seconds S ooooo! Looks like I'll be going weird and feral again on the 9'8"
you must have been involved in the mid-80s tracks publication "the book of big surf", nick? i think kirk wilcox might have been the editor. i seem to recall a story about surfing at newport in it, possibly by mike newling or even by you?
I can't remember!

User avatar
steve shearer
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 44831
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:18 pm

god I loved that book.

I remember reading it at my grandparents house at Wynnum Manly and being gobsmacked by Wayne Bartholomews baroque comparisons between surfing Pipe and being a Japanese samurai warrior.
It just thrilled me right off my feet.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
foamy
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 7901
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:26 pm

I don’t have a copy, but

Image

User avatar
foamy
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 7901
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 6:46 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:31 pm

Image

User avatar
Lucky Al
Duke Status
Posts: 11817
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2005 7:53 am
Location: The Sad Tropics

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Thu Jun 06, 2019 4:49 pm

that's the one! i wonder if i still have a copy in a box at dad's house. i have a vague memory of the mike newling one having a weird and feral feel about it, or maybe it was the rod kirsop one?

User avatar
steve shearer
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 44831
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:02 pm

I think it was the Simon Anderson one where he snapped his leggy and had to swim to the beach.

God I love that weird and feral feel, love that inversion between standing on the land looking out and then, as if by magic, being in the ocean looking back at the land.
It's so surreal, so sensual.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:46 pm

Designed by wife Wendy!

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:49 pm

Oh yeah it had that epic story by Foo, "The Unridden Realm", Surfer mag made a whole lot of noise many years later over having published it, almost like they invented the story etc, but we ran it about six months before they did. Had the insane shot of Grambeau's, of the loose board on the face of a Waimea closeout.

Nick Carroll
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 26515
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
Location: Newport Beach

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:50 pm

That was the story in which Foo wrote his classic spaghetti-Western line about how if you want the ultimate thrill you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price. You'd have thought it was cheese except nine years later, he did.

User avatar
Thud
Duke Status
Posts: 12540
Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:21 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Fri Jun 07, 2019 1:10 pm

Manly mid beach, some good ones in between the close outs.
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

User avatar
Hatchnam
Duke Status
Posts: 18790
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sat Jun 08, 2019 9:29 am

Flawless 4 ft lefts at greenhills as the tide started filling in.
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

channels
Snowy McAllister
Posts: 9918
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 4:36 pm
Location: Northen Beaches

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Sat Jun 08, 2019 11:01 am

Some great banks around.

User avatar
Wyre
Owl status
Posts: 4939
Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 6:23 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Sat Jun 08, 2019 11:47 am

Absolutely pumping down at the nasho. Was just getting started when I got totally caught out by a rogue close out. Landed on me, so I dived and came up to find my board in half. AND NO FCUKING SPARE! Bummed.
Sniff wrote:
Wed Nov 10, 2021 7:46 am
I remember some wheelchair xylophonist getting all macho about how he liked to smash absolutely heaps of Weetbix before a hard day's roofing

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68247
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sat Jun 08, 2019 5:42 pm

Got a few this arvo. Actually went a bit better than I thought I was going to since I hadn't had a surf in a week or more.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68247
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun Jun 09, 2019 2:30 pm

Just had the surf I expected to have yesterday. Total waste of time. The little right in the Corner looked fun but was as fickle as Loofys Cat. Water was nice though.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

User avatar
ajohnsen
Duke Status
Posts: 12463
Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 10:38 am
Location: Marrickville

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Sun Jun 09, 2019 5:01 pm

Eloura. Straight as a ruler. It was my first surf in at least a couple of months. Shoulder/arm thing is still there but not giving me any grief. No paddle power, though.

User avatar
Wyre
Owl status
Posts: 4939
Joined: Thu May 01, 2014 6:23 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Sun Jun 09, 2019 5:39 pm

Glad to hear the shoulder is better Aj. Time to
surf more I reckon. Ease into it, but get down here!
Sniff wrote:
Wed Nov 10, 2021 7:46 am
I remember some wheelchair xylophonist getting all macho about how he liked to smash absolutely heaps of Weetbix before a hard day's roofing

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68247
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Mon Jun 10, 2019 1:02 pm

Groan......nice little lefts in the corner at Bondi......if you could get them. Super crowded.
Hey, tool guy on the stripey minimal.....the fact you can catch every wave that comes through doesn't mean you have to. Better paddle back out as fast as I can to make sure no one else can catch one. Thanks, dickhead.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 54 guests