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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:57 pm
by Drailed
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
PM me next time Bruddah, I will paddle out with you.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:46 pm
by Lucky Al
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
Man it got GOOD this arvo.
All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.
I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.
It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
where were all the surfers?!
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:53 pm
by Nick Carroll
I imagine they were all off being decent human beings.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:58 pm
by steve shearer
oh god, don't martyr yourself over a good days surfing for chrissakes.
thats what we do.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:13 pm
by PeepeelaPew
...
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:13 pm
by channels
Lucky Al wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:46 pm
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
Man it got GOOD this arvo.
All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.
I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.
It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
where were all the surfers?!
At 1pm on a Wednesday? Working i guess.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:41 pm
by Lucky Al
whenever i visit dad (usually mid-winter) and the point's good it's busy from dawn to dusk. does newport have fewer surfers than northern suburbs of wollongong?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:45 pm
by BA
I could have surfed, but I’m just a softcock.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:50 pm
by Nick Carroll
steve shearer wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:58 pm
oh god, don't martyr yourself over a good days surfing for chrissakes.
thats what we do.
Look steve. I’m just thinking about it for chrissakes.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:50 pm
by Nick Carroll
I’m responding to a feeling I had.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:56 pm
by godsavetheking
Well I, for one, am enjoying the bittersweet lyricism and reflection that has crept into Nick's writing over the past couple of weeks
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:57 pm
by buddy
Everyone was at Manly probably.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:58 pm
by Nick Carroll
Well god save forget that and do me a favour and respond with some sort of personal thought or feeling about what I posted about above.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:59 pm
by Beanpole
Well, the otherness of surfing is negated by comps and romanticised by the companies....but it still floats out there.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:01 pm
by Nick Carroll
Like I crave an actual communication about it. Aside from poor loofy trying to be funny or shearer going the niggle.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:03 pm
by buddy
Sometimes when I surf alone I want someone to share it with, but other times I love it.
For some reason, I haven't really thought too hard about it, but I like surfing with mates up here on the north coast but in Vic I love surfing alone.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:03 pm
by Drailed
Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:01 pm
Like I crave an actual communication about it. Aside from poor loofy trying to be funny or shearer going the niggle.
Surf into my DM’s brother. YANA
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:11 pm
by buddy
What was that Laird Hamilton quote from Endless summer 2?
Something about he'd rather surf 1ft with a bunch of friends than 20ft with a bunch of dicks. Then he laughs and says but if it's 20ft and I'm alone, I'd prefer that.
Same for me but substitute 20ft for 6-8
.