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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:28 pm
by Drailed
Why didnt you get a go out Steve?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:30 pm
by steve shearer
covering Maggie River Loof.

and I jinxed my neck a bit yesterday rocking off.
I went for the high risk/high reward option and ended up having to pancake through the rock garden under a set and got a bit crooked.

I could have had a quick go out on dark but the swell hadn't arrived so thought I would wait until manyana.

You?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:57 pm
by Drailed
Nah, woke up at 6 for the early but I couldnt get out of bed.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:59 pm
by steve shearer
why not?

Are you injured?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 7:23 pm
by Drailed
It was absolutely pissing down, freezing cold and I feel the onset of a flu/cold. I surfed 2 hours yest so not too bothered.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:01 pm
by steve shearer
not another one of these man flus?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:05 pm
by buddy
Surfed in boardies and vest till the sun went down. No problems.
As soon as I stepped on to the beach on the way in I was thinking, 'it's fucking freezing!'

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:45 am
by steve shearer
jeez, what a disappointing hoax.
wobbly rollers breaking parallel to the coast.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:08 am
by buddy
Nothing holding it here.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:34 am
by steve shearer
its just an overgrown messy windswell.

except not that overgrown.

I had low expectations but it's effortlessly limboed them.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:16 am
by Nick Carroll
not down here it wasn't.

started getting a handle on the 9'8" CC, it's tricky! Everything about it is tricky except actually riding a wave on it.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:30 am
by ajohnsen
Like, is it tricky riding down the beach on your Dragstar with it under your arm?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 10:39 am
by Drailed
Tricky getting the fins in the right way round, putting it into your X5 without dinging it??

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 2:09 pm
by Over55yrs
Protected NB corner this morning and not too crowded (and wow you notice how warm the water is compared to air temp).

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 3:18 pm
by buddy
steve shearer wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 8:34 am
its just an overgrown messy windswell.

except not that overgrown.

I had low expectations but it's effortlessly limboed them.
Did it get any better?
Small shark bite at the point too, legit?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 3:22 pm
by buddy
Didn't see the other thread.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
by Nick Carroll
Man it got GOOD this arvo.

All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.

I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.

It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:44 pm
by Nick Carroll
Maybe I am beginning to see some things differently in the wake of my dad's death. I used to kid myself that he wanted to hear about our surfing adventures, and he always seemed to enjoy the stories.