Hatchnam wrote: ↑
Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:06 pm
Wouldn’t south wall have had something. Or too much shark paranoia?
Working in Byron or I would have had a punt. Anyhow went back this arvo and laid down a 3 hour sesh. It was pumping again but a bit less consistent and less water moving around.
Crazy, multinational frothed out mega crowd.
I put 4 fins in the Ghost and I was so excited to ride it and the first wave it just went.....straight....I couldn't fcuking turn it, it was like trying to bend an iron bar. Many embarrassing waves followed. I could take the drop, go straight and do a bottom turn and that was it.
Then I did the best full speed power hack of my life and comboed it straight into a fins out close out hit. Confused.
Then mega kookery. Then an absolute bomb , came off the bottom buried the arm and out the pie in the oven and this chick in a purple bikini on a boogie board just absolutely stuffed me.
I wore the lip on the head got smashed and ended up tangled up underwater with a South American stud.
It was very confronting.
Back to the beach for another lap. More kookery. Came in and took the fuschia four fins out of the board.
I have no idea what happened.