RealSurf Surfers' Forum

It beggars belief just how far to the very left of the kook spectrum I can actually get. Seriously, for someone who maintained a pretty grommy attitude and surfed pretty well up to my early 50s, it's fcukin depressing. I drove home this morning determined to list all of my boards on Gumtree.

What went wrong

What didn't

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:44 am

It beggars belief just how far to the very left of the kook spectrum I can actually get. Seriously, for someone who maintained a pretty grommy attitude and surfed pretty well up to my early 50s, it's fcukin depressing. I drove home this morning determined to list all of my boards on Gumtree.

Don't despair AJ, I've had some pretty low moments after moving to Perth, but there's always time for a comeback.

If I didn't hate practically everything about golf, I'd take it up.

Yeah, AJ.....just be philosophical about it. I'm continually confronting my limitations with take offs these days.

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:44 am

It beggars belief just how far to the very left of the kook spectrum I can actually get. Seriously, for someone who maintained a pretty grommy attitude and surfed pretty well up to my early 50s, it's fcukin depressing. I drove home this morning determined to list all of my boards on Gumtree.

I surf every 6 weeks or so aj, and I've gotten to the point of not getting upset about poor timing and fitness etc. It's kind of good because I don't get so shitty about it, and really enjoy it when I do get out

Yeah, usually I'm okay at that, these days, but today was a new level of whoa!

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 12:12 pm

Yeah, AJ.....just be philosophical about it. I'm continually confronting my limitations with take offs these days.

Yep. Getting to my feet in a hurry doesn't happen.
Lately I've been surfing Noosa a bit and you REALLY need to pop up quickly there.
Forcing myself to do so has worked a bit.

My worst are waves that pitch in the top third and then go fat at the base. Just have to let a few go by that I would have dropped into with ease ten years ago. Still feeling pretty loose once Im up though. Really don't like going shoulder to shoulder for a wave. Had fun today.

Trev wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 12:34 pm

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 12:12 pm

Yeah, AJ.....just be philosophical about it. I'm continually confronting my limitations with take offs these days.

Yep. Getting to my feet in a hurry doesn't happen.
Lately I've been surfing Noosa a bit and you REALLY need to pop up quickly there.
Forcing myself to do so has worked a bit.

No problem Trev, just do 200 popups/day for 6 months. You'll be faster to your feet than most 30 year-olds.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 12:43 pm

Trev wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 12:34 pm

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 12:12 pm

Yeah, AJ.....just be philosophical about it. I'm continually confronting my limitations with take offs these days.

Yep. Getting to my feet in a hurry doesn't happen.
Lately I've been surfing Noosa a bit and you REALLY need to pop up quickly there.
Forcing myself to do so has worked a bit.

No problem Trev, just do 200 popups/day for 6 months. You'll be faster to your feet than most 30 year-olds.

Doesn't help a lot if you have Peripheral Sensory Neuropathy.

Part of my problem is I get stiffer and stiffer with every day of surfing unless I manage it well. So if I have a long session the next couple of days will be that bit less flexible. Having said that Ive been surfing nearly every day for the last couple of weeks plus a few other exercises and Im feeling pretty good.

I've got a shoulder injury that limits my ability to do push ups and that type of thing. I've been doing a few knee ups while hanging on the bar out the back. Seems to work quite well.

* that's not having a few knees ups while hanging at the Bar out the back.

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:58 am

What didn't

where did you go surfing? if you say any of the eastern beaches then i will be heading by train to marrickville with an orange jumpsuit and machete in hand.

Bronte was fun this morning...Tama looked good too.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 1:50 pm

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:58 am

What didn't

where did you go surfing? if you say any of the eastern beaches then i will be heading by train to marrickville with an orange jumpsuit and machete in hand.

Very narrow window, iggy. The Bra. If I had the time, I would haven driven. I promise you!

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 1:56 pm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 1:50 pm

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:58 am

What didn't

where did you go surfing? if you say any of the eastern beaches then i will be heading by train to marrickville with an orange jumpsuit and machete in hand.

Very narrow window, iggy. The Bra. If I had the time, I would haven driven. I promise you!

lemme guess, it was a full tide and flubbery straight waist high gutless shit backwashing with five people paddling for each wave. stay away from maroubra on south swells.

if you had time - garie would've been the go.

Yeah, The Bra would have been crap.