RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Super fun waist to occasional chest-high peaks for an hour and a half with just me and the missus out. Northern Beaches during xmas school holidays. Go figure.

That's cause they are all in Byron Bay. The whole world is here. Chaos is off the charts.

Bronte. Went down for a swim and decided to get my board. Became increasingly crowded as the tide dropped.

NBs a bit after high tide - not bad for first hour then the waves just disappeared.

Down the coast. Out the front. Small right rip bowl.
Would like to be positive about the state of the surf but it's been fcuking dire here for weeks.

Yeah I reckon at Bondi, December has been the shittest month of surf in the history of shit surf

I put it down to bulldozing the gutters with sand. They did the same thing a few years ago. Pray for a new season of Bondi Rescue.

I'm actually still sore from too much surf up the coast despite certain grumpy wowser killjoys predictions. Muscles feel ready for more but my shoulders playing up and I'm just getting some flexibility back in my lower back.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 30, 2017 11:05 am

That's cause they are all in Byron Bay. The whole world is here. Chaos is off the charts.

up my way is horrendous with a whole side of holy fuck.

I played dodge the hard sharp things the other day. Then nearly got run over by some young clubbie training on his obnoxious paddle board. Straight down the wave face he came, I pretty much duck dived out the way. Fking moron.

Thud wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:08 pm

I played dodge the hard sharp things the other day. Then nearly got run over by some young clubbie training on his obnoxious paddle board. Straight down the wave face he came, I pretty much duck dived out the way. Fking moron.

You should have taken the opportunity to engage in a conversation about egg consumption.

Crowdy Head back beach. Sub 2 foot dumpy ripbowls. Uneven and shifty but still some wackable ones

fcuken fun as today, strong short interval s swell and ne wind, just a fcuk load of fun to see out a 6/10 surf year.

highlights for me:

epic Hawaii in late Jan into Feb
coupla v solid s swells in winter Syd
10 days of phenomenal JBay
heaps of fun at Bells both surfing and focusing on the CT performance levels
engrossing wildlife encounters during offshore ski training in late winter and spring
coaching one of my squad to win Molokai
investigating the Surf Ranch first hand
getting a bunch of boards to stress test their limits from 4-12'

like, many more personal ones but that's the surf related ones. There's others for sure but thats off the top of my head

Fcuk orf Nick you tall poppy.


Nah, all the best to you you lucky little cnut.

It was a funny old year fer surf , very schizophrenic. Summer was a 1/10. Autumn was literally a 10/10, so much surf it was embarrassing.

Winter was a bit more sedate until the second half. From end of July into Sep there were 5 swells in the 6-10 foot range. Then Spring was fun as shite and summer has turned to caca again.

The highlight was a session during winter. Driving past the Point it looked dead flat with a devil wind on it. But there were two obscure long range swells in the water. A super long period S from the ice shelf west of Tasmania that missed the entire east coast and just refracted enough to brush the coast here on it's way to Fiji and a long range E generated near Tahiti.

I was walking around the Point trying to find the words to finish a deadline, the tide was super low. As I rounded the eastern tip, past the jump-off I was assailed by a surreal vision. A set of waves were hitting a sandbar and breaking with symmetrical perfection. One after the other, 4 in a row. No one out. A kiwi guy and his girlfriend were standing under a pandanus with surfboards staring at it. They were spooked.
I ran back to the Camry, sprinted, and extremely surreptitously, in between cars so no-one could see me, stashed the board and wetty in the bush.
Then ran back.
It was me and him, trading off for the next however long. Hidden from plain view under the basalt columns, in winter sunshine. The water was crystal clear and the spawning aggregations of bream and blackfish perfumed the water with fishy secretions.
He couldn't believe it. Literally frothing off his head.

My little channel bottom was going everywhere, lot of waves you just had to race full speed top to bottom tubes.
Anyhow, Happy New Year.

Waist-high glassy fun shorey super early. Then tide swallowed it. Water is tropical.

Water temp has dropped at least 2 deg over night down here, with a SSW wind and heavy cloud not helping the apparent temp.
Surface is all chopped up and there's almost no swell.

Some 2017 highlights were

Triple overhead plus south boomerang on the 6’10 single
Head high to double overhead Kiama reef and south maroubra reef on the 6’4 single
Wallabi point at double overhead on the 6’3 Eighties thruster
Ballina rock/sand righthander freight training at head and half high on the 6’2 twin

Just about to go for a paddle out at tuncurry breakwall

Playing with the kids down at Freshie, inconsistent chest high south swell around.