RealSurf Surfers' Forum

super fun today on the lower tide, pulsing on and off slightly fractured s swell, clean winds, banks slightly re set by the NE through the week. Felt like the end of the winter sth pulses. Seasons in flux.

Very checkered conditions. Lumpy, bumpy and the water was filthy. Don't know why. It hasn't been raining. It was like they had flushed the local sewerage pipes out.. Back to the Bondi of old.

I've only missed surfing two days since I got back. Not great but always something.

Nationals.
For the first time since 1966.
Fun.

1966 Trev, you must have seen a few things change since then.

Drailed wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:22 pm

1966 Trev, you must have seen a few things change since then.

Er yep.
Drove up in my first car, a 48/215 Holden (FX). Surfed at Alex and managed to upset the locals so moved on to Noosa. Probably a half dozen out. Surfed for hours.
No legrope of course.

Today, not too crowded at gumtrees and got a couple through to johnsons. But only about two and a half hours.

Oh. And these days I'm good with the Alex locals too.

Nice one Trev. They would have been some good sessions at Noosa.

I surfed Noosa for the first time in 1974. Also surfed Ti Tree overhead with two mates in about 1978.

I surfed tamarama during the hsc trials in 1981 all to myself and got the best tube I’ve ever had on a borrowed single fin.

Kirra with three guys in the water as well after a storm came through and the wind swung offshore while we were checking out the Goodtime Shop.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 06, 2017 7:44 am

Kirra with three guys in the water as well after a storm came through and the wind swung offshore while we were checking out the Goodtime Shop.

We lived for those storms in 1964 and 5, after school and several days of northerlies.

Yep. You would often only get an afternoon or half a day before the northerlies came back. Still the same I guess.

Back in the morning of 6/10/17 I had a surf in the howling southerly as the "dangerous surf conditions" produced a few 5ft faces at south facing Bondi. Disappointing but got one okay one in the dross. Those were the days.

Are you suffering dementia for realz ?

Yes, hatchie I am full of the stuff.

I was on the east side this morning. Looked at the Bra, fat and burgerish + boardriders meant brekkie looked a better option.

Always smaller in a southerly swell.

Seriously, seriously crowded on the NB's. Must be close to 200 out at Curly.