Where did you surf today ?

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Jan 17, 2018 12:52 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 12:34 pm
Almost breaking a left hander into Gordon's Bay from Clovelly Car Park. One lid rider out at the Bombie but it looked crap. Quite a few out at the Bra which was missing most of the swell but closing out 50% of the time or more.
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Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Jan 17, 2018 1:00 pm

Funnily there was a left breaking around the western side and nearly meeting up with the right. Outside Bombie peaking up on the Southside and the Southie had too much water. Choppy as. Really south angle to the swell. Malabar was tiny. Bare Island mediocre sized.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Jan 17, 2018 1:03 pm

Yeah figured that. It’s always chopped up to shit on these windy south swells. It’s fickle!
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buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Jan 17, 2018 1:09 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 12:51 pm
buddy wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:50 am
Clean up set at Lennox. You can see the bloke just behind the first wave. He had been sitting out the furthest for the last hour on a very big board. He had been knee paddling so you know it was big,
Thats Rusty Miller, he was coming in down the Bream Hole as I was going out.

A humbling experience he said. Not bad for a bloke in his 70's.

For scale, you can see the shark listening buoy clearly in the background and that thing is a half K off the Point.
He's still got a pretty good stroke on him.

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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Wed Jan 17, 2018 1:09 pm

Rusty Miller's a legend.
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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Wed Jan 17, 2018 1:12 pm

That the guy who did Ultimate Sessions with Curran at J Bay?

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Wed Jan 17, 2018 1:13 pm

North Styne - ok actually

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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Wed Jan 17, 2018 1:54 pm

Thud wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 1:12 pm
That the guy who did Ultimate Sessions with Curran at J Bay?
https://encyclopediaofsurfing.com/entries/miller-rusty/

http://rustymillersurf.com/rusty/
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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Wed Jan 17, 2018 2:57 pm

That would be a nope. Sonny Miller is who I meant.


https://youtu.be/oGDt18yECrY

Tom Curren has quite a nice bottom turn don't you think?

I'm sure this footage would have been presented on this site before. But who cares it's worth it.

https://youtu.be/5Ri5urWCwWM

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jan 17, 2018 3:17 pm

Did you get a go out Buddy?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Jan 17, 2018 3:29 pm

I watched for a while, then decided to jump off and float down toward Brockies and surf the 4-5 footers down there. The worst part of the jump is having cnuts film you I reckon, just waiting for you to fcuk up.
After watching the sets out back I decided the rewards might've been outweighed by the effort and 6'6 is my biggest board at the moment.
Or in other words, I was just a pussy.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jan 17, 2018 3:31 pm

the paddle was bad man.

Now I feel like an old man who got beat up by meth heads at Casino.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:26 pm

Whooo the swell just totally re-ignited down here this arvo, went from a burbly 6' to way bigger, a bit more east angle

Got some legit 10-12' waves on a bombie reef riding a slim 8'6". Wooshh!

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:11 pm

fcuk, that mean it's gunna be on here in the morning.

lot of spent arms up on the Point this arvo.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:31 pm

Big swing in swell direction.

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black duck
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by black duck » Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:34 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:31 pm
Big swing in swell direction.
which is weird given the consistency of the fetch direction for the most part of this low. Maybe bathymetry with the longer period is swinging it in. Happens down the coast quite often, strong south swells turn s/e and sometimes easterly when the period cranks up. Offshore reefs twist them i think. Could also be something completely different that the charts aren't picking up. Swell signatures are weird.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:13 am

ahhh fcuk kinda fizzled this morning

I knew it was going to but still always experience that sense of letdown.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:24 am

black duck wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:34 pm
Beanpole wrote:
Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:31 pm
Big swing in swell direction.
which is weird given the consistency of the fetch direction for the most part of this low. Maybe bathymetry with the longer period is swinging it in. Happens down the coast quite often, strong south swells turn s/e and sometimes easterly when the period cranks up. Offshore reefs twist them i think. Could also be something completely different that the charts aren't picking up. Swell signatures are weird.
Ah it wasn't that refraction thing, there was still plenty of SE bump going on

You can have multiple fetches in a low, winds pulsing from different angles and forming a range of swells. I would think this was off some 12-hr burst of strong easterly winds a bit closer to the centre of the low.

Tasman lows are so close to us, we really feel all their aspects.

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