Where did you surf today ?

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:36 pm

fcuk that drifty east swell thickened up and pushed a bit this arvo, reefs really focused it.

and my god I blew fcuken doors. Forget that 60 year old false modesty. People were gasping at the vast gouts of spray I threw into the lower atmosphere.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:39 pm

gout?

lay off the tomato.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:45 pm

Not when it's breaking OK. If it's not I'll go surf one of the many Ulus breaks, and if that fails its off to the one of breaks from Nyang Nyang up to Sri Lanka
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 04, 2019 7:22 pm

The bombie and outside corner are working. One surfer on the bombie, eight at outside corner.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:17 pm

offshore1 wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:27 am
Any head dips?
Mine shrinks into oblivion compared to that beauty of Steve's, completely upside down. Now that was a head dip for the ages.
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I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Sep 05, 2019 7:53 pm

Swell jacked up. I went out at 12pm. Numbers right down, 15 on the primo take off spot, swell the biggest and best of the three days. At 2pm there was just 4 of us and I got a few really good waves, one 300m classic. Went in at 3pm.

Excellent conditions at 5pm, 3 on the Bommie, 5 on Outside Corner.

I was talking with the guy who surfed the Bommie yesterday by himself, he stayed out for 5 hours, and was just on his way to do it again.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Skipper
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Skipper » Thu Sep 05, 2019 8:24 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:36 pm
fcuk that drifty east swell thickened up and pushed a bit this arvo, reefs really focused it.

and my god I blew fcuken doors. Forget that 60 year old false modesty. People were gasping at the vast gouts of spray I threw into the lower atmosphere.
good on you old fella.

i hadn't seen this local stretch between bondi and bra looking so sweet past couple of days - easy going, easy as - nothing to get too amped about, just sweet rolling peaks about chest high or above on sets, breaking where few waves break when the predominantly southerly swells roll thru', and they were holding shape; lefts/rights, depending on the angle of the bank below.
only maccas/tama and bra were doing it, t'was rare to see this time of the year.
\
and so; a bit of a jack up again next week again eh? 5mtrs? tuesday.

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Thu Sep 05, 2019 9:47 pm

Left at Bondi sneaking through in front of the ramp. Way too rippy up further north. Had a super fun session yesterday way out at Bronte. Feeling Spring in the water.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Fri Sep 06, 2019 11:02 am

No Pants Lance wrote:
Thu Sep 05, 2019 8:24 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:36 pm
fcuk that drifty east swell thickened up and pushed a bit this arvo, reefs really focused it.

and my god I blew fcuken doors. Forget that 60 year old false modesty. People were gasping at the vast gouts of spray I threw into the lower atmosphere.
good on you old fella.

i hadn't seen this local stretch between bondi and bra looking so sweet past couple of days - easy going, easy as - nothing to get too amped about, just sweet rolling peaks about chest high or above on sets, breaking where few waves break when the predominantly southerly swells roll thru', and they were holding shape; lefts/rights, depending on the angle of the bank below.
only maccas/tama and bra were doing it, t'was rare to see this time of the year.
\
and so; a bit of a jack up again next week again eh? 5mtrs? tuesday.

So many good banks around aye Skip
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Fri Sep 06, 2019 1:21 pm

Cranked wrote:
Thu Sep 05, 2019 7:53 pm
Swell jacked up. I went out at 12pm. Numbers right down, 15 on the primo take off spot, swell the biggest and best of the three days. At 2pm there was just 4 of us and I got a few really good waves, one 300m classic. Went in at 3pm.

Excellent conditions at 5pm, 3 on the Bommie, 5 on Outside Corner.

I was talking with the guy who surfed the Bommie yesterday by himself, he stayed out for 5 hours, and was just on his way to do it again.
You beauty, Cranked!

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Fri Sep 06, 2019 1:25 pm

Fcuk I caught a good wave yesterday Al. I'd been pulling back on wave after wave, when suddenly this perfect wedgey ramp appeared on a set wave, it was just out of reach to two other guys, they were screaming "goooo, goooo!" It took about 5 strokes to get in position, then another 5 to drop in. 200+ meters, then kicked out on a closeout section, well airborne, and an easy paddle back out.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Fri Sep 06, 2019 1:53 pm

hows the shoulders feeling Cranked?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Fri Sep 06, 2019 2:26 pm

No problems so far! I'm cautiously absolutely stoked.

Plus I've started to take more and more heavy wipeouts without any problems.

All of that shit was holding me back. I'd rather not surf again if that was necessary to keep me injury/pain free.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Fri Sep 06, 2019 2:28 pm

Great news, Cranky.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sat Sep 07, 2019 9:17 am

Ulus 7am, head high, 60 out at the peak/racetrack.

Bit of a change to the handful of the previous four days.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sat Sep 07, 2019 3:42 pm

MSW says 15.5ft for Lennox on Tuesday.

yet for reasons unknown to me, this swell seems to escape the Almighty hype of the last one.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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PeepeelaPew
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by PeepeelaPew » Sat Sep 07, 2019 4:10 pm

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Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Fri Dec 27, 2019 9:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Sat Sep 07, 2019 11:25 pm

FIFTEEN AND A HALF FOOT!!

FMD
Erase.

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