Where did you surf today ?

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Mon Jul 09, 2018 5:59 am

curri-fucking-mundi!

my home break!
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

alakaboo
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Jul 09, 2018 7:12 am

No, not there.
I said I had a bank to myself.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Jul 09, 2018 7:41 am

Two days of lots of double overhead sets, I'm fcuked, its time for a day off. The swell never reached its predicted size, but that's fine with me.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Jul 09, 2018 1:37 pm

Whoa, swell really booted around 11am. Boom! 10', solid, long, pretty clean though the wind shifted a bit around midday. Super fun!

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Mon Jul 09, 2018 1:45 pm

I fumbled around the Kick. Couple of ok 6-8fts for an old softie. Then gave up and was dragged about 1km down to the pipe and popped out.
The good deeds a man has done before defend him.

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Mon Jul 09, 2018 2:03 pm

Huge sets at Lurline Bay.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Mon Jul 09, 2018 7:46 pm

The fun continued! Biggest day of the year for sure in the Sydney area. Bombs bombs bombs.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Jul 09, 2018 8:05 pm

Tow it or paddle ?
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:37 am

Paddle! No tow bro. No tow.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:43 am

What board ?
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:51 am

protow. no tow bro. no tow.


fuck. say that 5 times fast!
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Tue Jul 10, 2018 8:03 am

I did lots of paddling this morning.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Jul 10, 2018 8:28 am

get any Buddy? I've just got a few things to do before I hit it, looked like some nice ones.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Tue Jul 10, 2018 8:38 am

4 waves. Only one good one, at flat rock on the 6'8

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Jul 10, 2018 8:56 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:37 am
Paddle! No tow bro. No tow.
BB4Lyfe!
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Jul 10, 2018 12:42 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:43 am
What board ?
Yesterday AB 7'0". Today! In the smaller and quite buttery conditions, the 6'5" ten channel. My god when you're in the mood for that board it is the Bomb. Felt like MP but without the paranoid schizophrenia

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Jul 10, 2018 1:33 pm

Nice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.

Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.

Approached each wave the same.

A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape 🦍 on Valium til the wave completely died out.

Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Jul 10, 2018 4:54 pm

No meat and three veg here the last coupla days. Yesterday just all feeling a bit Hawaiian, smooth late drops, deep connective turns on the big six, epic show-pony "down carves" with the whole drop knee shtick going, changing up the lines, letting the board manhandle the wave, then riding into sand death pits and peaks on the inside, running around for the paddle back, and cheering on a couple of the young crew who came out a bit tentative then got stuck in when they realised they could. You gotta treat big surf like it's little surf.

Then today more feeling the ball bearings of the ten channel on the soft clean faces, turning up into the pocket and standing back in the top turn, slithering though short arc cutties close to the white water, and weighting the centre concave/channel meeting point in half-barrel runs across the now more exposed sandbar. I wouldn't wanna ride that board every day but some days, ooo.

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