Where did you surf today ?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 13, 2017 3:05 pm

I'd just spent nearly 30 minutes getting out, so paddled another 40m to have a rest before joining the pack. A much bigger set comes rolling in and I'm in the perfect position, everyone way to far inside, a few easy strokes and I'm into a solid double overhead wave.

The bigger waves are the best. I'm racing it, 100m, 200m, 250m, looking good for Bingin Beach, but there's a paddler in the worst position, I have to pull up high when I need to be driving low, he duck dives directly underneath me, but I've lost my speed, another 50m and I kick my board out, land flat and my shoulder hits the reef solidly in about a foot of water, wave then collapses on me. Wave of the fcuking day.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Wed Sep 13, 2017 4:41 pm

Ahhh the pleasure and the pain
smnmntll wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:20 am
Look, OK, cards on the table. I fcuked my father up the arse. It was in the car immediately following my mother's funeral and on the way to the wake.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:29 pm

Clean 2 foot peaks. Aframe take offs into great little bowl running all the way to the beach. Surfed the new 6'4 single.
Managed to get two barrels on the one wave on the shallow inside bowl section as it drains out in front of the rocks. Probably the first time I can remember that happening at maroubra.

Got this pic just after I came in, as the sun was setting.

Image
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Thu Sep 14, 2017 7:07 am

it's nothing but Arrant Piffle up here.
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:31 am

Yep i am home again
smnmntll wrote:
Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:20 am
Look, OK, cards on the table. I fcuked my father up the arse. It was in the car immediately following my mother's funeral and on the way to the wake.

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Cranked
Snowy McAllister
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:49 am

I practiced all the different ways to get in and out of a closeout
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Thu Sep 14, 2017 12:24 pm

Jammed in the corner at Queensie. SW'r, she's a cold one.

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Thu Sep 14, 2017 1:14 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:29 pm
Clean 2 foot peaks. Aframe take offs into great little bowl running all the way to the beach. Surfed the new 6'4 single.
Managed to get two barrels on the one wave on the shallow inside bowl section as it drains out in front of the rocks. Probably the first time I can remember that happening at maroubra.

Got this pic just after I came in, as the sun was setting.

Image
Glorious bank isn't it Iggy.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu Sep 14, 2017 3:05 pm

Mechanically perfect.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Sep 14, 2017 6:51 pm

Had a lovely afternoon with 20 odd Brazilians. No sarcasm intended
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:18 pm

Trannys?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:16 pm

Lol
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Fri Sep 15, 2017 2:58 pm

Maroubra mid-north bank. Flawless walled up righthander running all the way to the beach. Surfed the 6'4 single. No snaps or vert reos etc. taking off just behind the peak into a high trimline then cutting down the face and back into the bowl as needed.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Fri Sep 15, 2017 3:13 pm

How good is it iggy, amazing waves for south swell.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Fri Sep 15, 2017 3:17 pm

Yep. Just the right amount of size and fetch in the south swell for the banks to cook. Not too small as to be a fat backwasher. Not too strong as to be a straighthander. All the planets are in line. Those two recent big swells moved some sand around for the better that's for sure.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Fri Sep 15, 2017 3:21 pm

More close outs. The swell is nice but the banks don't like the swell direction.

Over55yrs
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Over55yrs » Fri Sep 15, 2017 3:33 pm

Lots of fun on the mid tide near the club house - great way to end the week.

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Fri Sep 15, 2017 4:22 pm

did 3 backhand turns on one wave this morning. it may be a record for this winter.
steve shearer wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:31 am
You are both absorbing salt and urinating.

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