Where did you surf today ?

[Beanpole]

I'm kind of interested now in what size people decide to bail rather than duck dive.
Rather undignified for the serious big wave rider I would think.
What did they do before legropes?

[offshore1]

Swim.

Use channels, paddle like hell between sets.
Turn turtle if it's not too big.
Bigger boards paddle a lot faster.

[channels]

I'm kind of interested now in what size people decide to bail rather than duck dive.
Rather undignified for the serious big wave rider I would think.
What did they do before legropes?

2 foot if I'm surfing Manly, because it's what everyone else does.

[Beanpole]

Good call.

[Davros]

I watched Slater throw his boards at Sunset

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[buddy]

I think I surfed where Steve surfed. Talk about getting the wave count up.

[batoes]

Good stuff. Take you long to dial the 2+1 or straight back into it?

There was some adjustment. The board is for big stuff - so i don't ride it unless it's big usually, but it was lined up and running quick. The board was good, but i could feel the length working against me. 5'8 and it would have been on!

The hull was insane. Such a different feel.

Who made the hull?

Nico Boesel - i believe he works in the vouch factory. 6'7 or so. Super wide and thick - flat rockered and pinched rails. Have just put a liddle flex fin in it - so much better than the lovelace fin i had.

[Davros]

Awesome

Flex fins A1

[petulance]

I'm kind of interested now in what size people decide to bail rather than duck dive.
Rather undignified for the serious big wave rider I would think.
What did they do before legropes?

2 foot if I'm surfing Manly, because it's what everyone else does.

On my recent hols, I saw shortboards that I estimate to be under six foot being thrown in 2ft conditions.

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[batoes]

Awesome

Flex fins A1

They are fin and placement sensitive! Took me ages to get it right. So weird when i had the lovelace fin too forward, the board wouldn't paddle straight and the nose would submerge!

[crabmeat thompson]

I watched Slater throw his boards at Sunset

the greatest duck diver in the history of surfing, John John Florence, threw his board and bailed 10 waves in a row at 10ft backdoor ...

i'm not sure there's a human out there who can duck dive 8ft. shit ... at six, I'm pretty much downing periscope and swimming for the sand. haha

[The Mighty Sunbird]

So that's where I've been going wrong. I thought it was just normal to almost drown with a death grip on my board and get washed in
I'm gonna live being a chucker!

[marauding mullet]

I hang on to my board for all I'm worth by wrapping my arms and legs around it and crushing it like Loofy crushes pussy.
End up with some bruises on the inside of the biceps but it works for me.

[Davros]

I love a board chuck in a decent swell

[The Mighty Sunbird]

Especially the no look board chuck

[Davros]

Well personally I like to make sure there are at least three people directly behind me