Where did you surf today ?

[el rancho]

I'll buy you a carton if you bomb the hill at lennox on that skateboard
must be filmed by a third party or a go pro

[steve shearer]

piece of piss Rancho. save your money mate.

[bomboraa]

Among hordes of frauds near Canggu. They've got the boards they've got the bods they've got the hair and the bikes with racks and the tats. Almost all northern hemisphere denizens.
The euros, being seriously schooled in cool, have ditched the mini mal/fun boards they should be riding and swagger with short boards under their gym, not paddle, toned biceps. Men and women alike.
Asked a guy renting boards on the beach why no one was on a sweet fun peak further out and he just shrugged and smiled. Seems a bit over head high and actually getting chunky wedgy when it runs into the shorey is too confronting. So had fun by myself as the poseur pack looked on. King Kook!
Is it the same on the Bukit these days?
Steve purchased what you wanted.
And has it made news in Oz that magic mushrooms have finally been outlawed in Bali?

[steve shearer]

bukit is a different beast.

canggu is the epicentre of that euro scene.


thanks Bommie. I'm in Sydney next Fri/Sat. Could I buy you a beer?

[Nick Carroll]

drove around the northside with Tom and Ross hoping for something. We stood on the Long Reef sand dune watching the german bank fail to rise to the occasion.

That bombie field is epic. The Bank needs an acute south swell to run up the reef finger and wedge up to its true dimensions. But the swell today wasn't nearly big or strong enough.
When Sydney is in the midst of one of those amazing periods of swell, it's such a great surfing zone, I can only imagine what it must have looked like in the bug seasons past, like 1951-4 or the early 30s. Crazy cyclone paths and massive sth swells.

Ross drove 11hrs on a hunch. now he's driving another nine hours back to Melbourne to catch a plane. madness.

[Donweather]

So your wed/thurs call made above Nick turned out to be a bit of a fizzer then?

[steve shearer]

it was a fizzer here too.

[purple pyramids]

there were plenty of solid, sizeable waves around sydney on wednesday and thursday. it might not have been as big as monday's peak, but that was no fizzer.

[crabmeat thompson]

It's all relative PP. when they were forecasting 8ft plus reefs @ 15 seconds, and it only gets to 4ft, it's fizzer.

[Nick Carroll]

So your wed/thurs call made above Nick turned out to be a bit of a fizzer then?

Not totally, it was def bigger and thicker but it was also shittier. Winds went weird and everything turned to crap. This mornings pretty good though.

[purple pyramids]

It's all relative PP. when they were forecasting 8ft plus reefs @ 15 seconds, and it only gets to 4ft, it's fizzer.

i do have very low standards, it's true.

[purple pyramids]

i reckon that was more than 4ft...i have now have an extra-long leggie.

if my board is pearling all the time does that mean too late a take off? too short a board for the conditions? crap surfing skills?

[crabmeat thompson]

Whadya mean by pearling?

[purple pyramids]

Whadya mean by pearling?

the nose going underwater on takeoff

[crabmeat thompson]

Assuming you're right back on your tailpad, put more weight on your backfoot?

What kind of board you riding? If your board was too small, you'd be getting caught up in the lip. Sounds like you're not setting your rail or the board's concave isn't suited to the waves you were riding ie flat rockered, wide-nosed boards in sucky/ hollow waves make it pretty hard to get shacked on.

[purple pyramids]

ok that makes sense...
i'm riding a 5'10" swallowtail kneeboard...it's "front foot" style surfing, so no leaning back on the tail. it's my "summer" board. fairly flat rocker and not much concave.
my rounded pin that i use in bigger waves is fin chopped and out of action. too damaged for me to repair. too broke to pay for someone to repair.
maybe i'll have to repair it myself. but it's such a magical board, i'd hate to fck it up.

[crabmeat thompson]

Ah, there you go then mate. Flat rockered boards are harder in hollow overhead waves. Sounds like you're paddling into them just fine, but the rocker & nose lift isn't letting you get into them.

There's a few really clips on youtube for board repair, I think surfline even have a few in their board section.

If you're gonna give it a go check them out. I just patched up my racing ski using an epoxy tutorial on youtube. Worked a treat. Board feels exactly the same, and minus the bad colour match I did with the paint, you'd hardly even know she had a hole the size of my fist punched through it.

[Animal_Chin]

Whadya mean by pearling?

the nose going underwater on takeoff

There's a term I've never heard before.